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Vehicle to Load (V2L) - Any Information or First Hand Experiences?

Thanks, I was suspecting that would be the case, I’m just surprised that they would wire a cable that way, when it only needs one resistor?
One talks to the car and one talks to the charger
ie let's the charger know what amps the cable can take safely
 
I'm after a bit of advice on modifying a type2 to type2 cable I've bought. The cable is from a Toyota, and I'm unsure as to where I should fit the new 470 Ohm resistor. One end of the cable with the resistor in is connected to earth - is this correct.




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Be very careful, the adapter I bought for a Kia to use with my MGZSEV had the resistor between different pins to those required by the ZSEV, plus the resistor value is different for the ZSEV.
 
EV cables sell one specially for the 2022 ZS.
 
Anyone know what's the spec of the inverter in the Mg4? How many kva, is it pure sine or modified sine?
 
I bought one of these, well built and works as it should. I used it to run an 1100w Vacuum cleaner to hoover out my car as a test.

 
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You only need one in the type 2 end as others end will be your sockets
Yes. In a real charging cable, that one tells the EVSE what current capability (ampacity? I don't like that word) the cable has, so a powerful EVSE doesn't overheat a thin cable. As N2STY says, in this application, there will be no EVSE, just a dumb power socket, so you don't need to worry about that resistor. It won't connect through to the other end of the cable, as far as I know.

Edit: Oops, I see this was covered by later posts. Sigh.
 
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is it pure sine or modified sine?
It will be pure sine wave, since that's what is needed for the normal power factor correction task. All the electronics will already be there for pure sine wave generation.

As to the specification, no-one knows. It may be nearly or the same as the nameplate rating of the charger, 6.6 or 7.2 kW, but we don't know. Officially, it's about 2.2 kW, but many testers have reported far higher loads apparently working fine.
 
Thanks for everyone's input, I'm still researching, as there are different options for wiring being used.

One option is to put the resistor between CP and PP, and this appears to work, but I've also seen a couple of videos with the resistor connected between PP and earth, which also is shown to work.

To complicate matters further, I've just come across another video, where both CP and PP are connected to earth, with the resistor between earth and PP as in all the other cases.

V2Lwiring.jpg


Each of these options are shown working in videos, and I'm wondering what would be "best practice"
 
I've just come across another video, where both CP and PP are connected to earth, with the resistor between earth and PP as in all the other cases.
That's probably a good idea, especially for the cases where you repurpose a charging cable, so you'd have a quite long wire connected to the control pilot (CP) input, running in parallel with AC wires that may have some switching noise on them. The long unconnected wire acts a bit like an antenna. It is likely to cause noise and/or 50 Hz AC inductively coupled into the control pilot input, which could conceivably cause glitches or maybe even damage the control pilot input to your on-board charger. The OBC could cost of the order of £3000 to replace. The risk is small, but the effort to short the two pins is also small, so you may as well do that as part of "best practice". Though it might be easier and just as effective to simply cut the CP wire near the vehicle end.

Edit: Or do both: cut the CP wire 70 mm from the pin, and use the short end to connect to earth.
 
That's probably a good idea, especially for the cases where you repurpose a charging cable, so you'd have a quite long wire connected to the control pilot (CP) input, running in parallel with AC wires that may have some switching noise on them. The long unconnected wire acts a bit like an antenna. It is likely to cause noise and/or 50 Hz AC inductively coupled into the control pilot input, which could conceivably cause glitches or maybe even damage the control pilot input to your on-board charger. The OBC could cost of the order of £3000 to replace. The risk is small, but the effort to short the two pins is also small, so you may as well do that as part of "best practice". Though it might be easier and just as effective to simply cut the CP wire near the vehicle end.

Edit: Or do both: cut the CP wire 70 mm from the pin, and use the short end to connect to earth.

That makes a lot of sense to me, thanks for your detailed explanation @Coulomb.
 
James at EVcables contacted me to say they are now connecting CP to PE (PE=Ground) in addition to the 470 ohm resistor between PP and PE (as in Eclectic's diagram above). It seems that some newer MGs don't like having CP disconnected (floating).
 
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James at EVcables contacted me to say they are now connecting CP to PE (PE=Ground) in addition to the 470 ohm resistor between PP and PE (as in Eclectic's diagram above). It seems that some newer MGs don't like having CP disconnected (floating).

Thanks Julian, I had been doing some research, and with the help of other forum members and users, had decided to take this method myself. It's helpful to have confirmation that this appears to be the way to go.
 
Prior to arranging collection of my car, I messaged the dealership requesting that the update to allow V2L without the car needing to be in ‘ready’ mode, be applied. When I picked up the car, I was told there was no such update.
I have just loaded the tumble dryer, and it is working fine from the car, but obviously still in ready mode. A bit disappointing, but the car is in the garage, so it’s okay.
Guess I have to wait until next year to get updates at first service.
 
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