Also let the tool do its job, not pushing the drill hard.
Agreed.
Start by using a small ( 8 - 10 mm ) extension masonry drill, to first establish your exit point.
Ideally this would be produced from the outside of the property first, starting in a cross section of a mortar joint on the brick work outside, this will prevent brick blow out.
However, not many trades will do this, as they are very concerned about blowing any internal plaster work on the inside ( if any ) so they will drill from the inside out, almost guaranteeing face brick blow out straight away.
So once you have your small pilot hole drilled, place a piece of strong tape over the hole and then pass the drill bit back into the hole, when it hits the back of the tape, pull the drill back about 15mm and wrap a small piece of tape around the shank of the drill at this point.
Then before opening up the size of the hole to the next intermediate size, transfer that mark onto the slightly larger drill bit.
Commence by opening up the size of the hole with hammer action until ON until you get close to the mark on the shank of the drill bit, at this point stop drilling and turn OFF the hammer action and ease back on the pressure applied to the rear of the drill, let the drill cut through slowly.
When you break through, repeat the process again with the final finish size drill, to accept the supply cable.
This method will massively reduces the damaged caused to the external brick work.
It's not rocket science, just good working practice.
Would they follow this good practice ?.
NO of course not, just bang a single 15 - 18 mm hole straight through, from the inside out, on full hammer action, using a machine with much more powerful than it is necessary, and by pushing as hard as they can on the back of it !.
Then blow the complete back out of one face brick ( if you are really lucky ).
Oh ......... But don't worry, because before you can see it, they will have applied mastic to one of horrible plastic cover plates, that covers the mess they just made to your brick work.
Time is money and they do NOT intend to take any longer than necessary with running / routing that supply cable.
The wall box mounting, is four holes marked through the back cover, then four holes and four plugs and four screws, pretty hard to get that wrong ???.
To me, the difference between a good neat install and a untidy rough eyesore, is the choice of cable routing, followed by how the holes are produced in the structure of the property and any clipping of the cable.
Rear entering the cable into the wall box ( if possible ) has to be the neatest solution, as any brick work damage caused, can be hidden by the rear case of the wall box.
www.screwfix.com
www.vonhaus.com
evonestop.co.uk
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