ZS EV Charging losses

H

Hobgoblin

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MG ZS EV
Hi All
Recently taken delivery of a 6 month old ZS EV Trophy LR. I notice that when the car is charging on my Hypervolt3 charger the I Smart app shows 6.38 kW as the charging power. To the best of my knowledge the Hypervolt3 should deliver 7kW. The charger is set to deliver full power. I understand that there will be losses when charging but 620w seems a lot. Are all ZS EVs the same?
 
I read somewhere it’s the AC charger on the vehicle that dictates the actual charge and it’s maximum is around 6.4kW. A friend of mine has access to a 21kW type 2 charger at work (3 phase mains supply on a Zappi) on his Nissan Leaf and it’s the same. 6.4kW maximum charge.
 
Energy is consumed at many places:
- isolator switch (I measured 7 degree C temperature rise with 16 mm² cable) [ edit: was 6 mm² ]
- Cabling (I measured 3 volt drop to house)
- Wall charger or in-cabling charger
- EV on-boarded charge controller
- battery warming
Efficiency is between 78% to 92% based on my calculation in different cases.

[ Edited moderator: noted the important difference ]
 
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Absolutely normal. Go to a "proper industrial install" and you'll get 7.4 kW but at home you'll be lucky to get 6.6 kW on AC charging.
 
Waterstoney said:
Energy is consumed at many places:
- isolator switch (I measured 7 degree C temperature rise with 6mm2 cable)
- Cabling (I measured 10 volt drop)
- Wall charger or in-cabling charger
- EV on-boarded charge controller
- battery warming
Efficiency is between 78% to 92% based on my calculation in different cases.
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Not keen on your volt drop, that’s almost the maximum allowed in the UK and depending on your supply voltage may actually be outside the permitted maximum. Should be within 5% of your supply voltage. Did your sparks cheap out on the cable? I’d have probably gone for 10mm² rather than 6mm².
 
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AdeSc said:
Not keen on your volt drop, that’s almost the maximum allowed in the UK and depending on your supply voltage may actually be outside the permitted maximum. Should be within 5% of your supply voltage. Did your sparks cheap out on the cable? I’d have probably gone for 10mm² rather than 6mm².
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10 volt voltage drop was for in-cable charger circuit. I should not talk about granny charger here. I updated my post.

6 mm² cable should be good enough for 7kW wall charger. It was installed by Octopus Energy. There is 3 volt drop for my 100A inlet to the house when charging.
 
Waterstoney said:
10 volt voltage drop was for in-cable charger circuit. I should not talk about granny charger here. I updated my post.

6 mm² cable should be good enough for 7kW wall charger. It was installed by Octopus Energy. There is 3 volt drop for my 100A inlet to the house when charging.
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6mm² cable for 7kW at 50m? Nope.
 
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drmcw said:
Absolutely normal. Go to a "proper industrial install" and you'll get 7.4 kW but at home you'll be lucky to get 6.6 kW on AC charging.
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Exactly, any of these figures are 'best case; scenario & the slight loss usually applies to any EV. Try pubic rapid chrgers and the gap is even more non-sensical.
 
drmcw said:
Absolutely normal. Go to a "proper industrial install" and you'll get 7.4 kW but at home you'll be lucky to get 6.6 kW on AC charging.
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I don't know about the ZS, but on the MG4 the onboard charger is rated at 6.6kW ... so it doesn't matter what the rating is of the (AC) charge point, you'll only ever get a maximum of 6.6kW going into the car. :)

PS: my home charging has a typical efficiency of 87-90%
 
siteguru said:
I don't know about the ZS, but on the MG4 the onboard charger is rated at 6.6kW ... so it doesn't matter what the rating is of the (AC) charge point, you'll only ever get a maximum of 6.6kW going into the car. :)

PS: my home charging has a typical efficiency of 87-90%
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That's the SE the LR will take 7.4 kW.
 
I am trying to think up Christmas presents. A booster pack would at least be something with a (theoretical at least ) use. Which ones has any anybody purchased and has it ever been used on your ZS EV.
 
So. Yesterday, 09/11/2023 I finally got my spoiler replaced at the third attempt. I found out some rather startling information. Well, startling for me, anyway. Did you know, if there are ‘recall’ updates (whatever they are) to do, if you refuse them, your car is no longer under warranty? Since finding out how to have the LKA stay off with a single touch of the screen, I don’t want that to change. I asked what the updates were and got told ‘recall’ updates. They couldn’t tell me what they are (‘they are just numbers to us’), what they affect, nothing. I said not to bother and that’s when I got the full force of my dealership telling me in no uncertain terms, you are required to have them done or bye, bye warranty! Fortunately, as it turns out, these particular updates do not change the LKA thing that works and they do soften the intervention of the LKA when I tested it on a clear road on the way home. Much more civilised. I haven’t looked yet to see if anything else has changed. Wouldn’t it be lovely if ’Driver Profiles’ suddenly appeared!
 
AdeSc said:
Ahhh... Can't you just use an ordinary 12v car battery charger? Just for clarity, I know nothing of these things... I used one on my Toyota Yaris hybrid when it went flat after not using it for three months.
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Or do you mean a 12v battery booster that's self contained?
 
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