Sleeping in MG4 [merged thread]

I wondered if this might be a good solution to one problem

bear1 said:

I wondered if this might be a good solution to one problem

https://amzn.eu/d/90EYw5T

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The idea seems great, though the price seems out of this world
I do like the idea though and will look for similar solutions

webhiker said:

The idea seems great, though the price seems out of this world
I do like the idea though and will look for similar solutions

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I didn't even look at the price! Yes, crazy. I suspect there will be something similar at a more sensible price

I'm very pleased with my two new purchases. Picnic table (which I needed anyway for the washing basket when hanging out the line!) and a new air mattress to replace the 30+ year old one that wasn't staying inflated.

This seems to be a good hack for the SE without the false floor that the Trophy has. Table and garden chair almost bring the foot end of the air mattress up to the level of the folded-down seat backs - yes, really, the photo is deceptive. It wouldn't be hard to put something else in to raise it a bit more but I don't think it's necessary.



The new airbed at a nominal 185 cm is not too long for the space available and in fact fits in very neatly indeed. The mains-operated pump is a thing of beauty, doing the job in seconds, and also capable of sucking the air out to deflate it as well. Obviously it can be run from VtL.



I didn't bother putting a support under the head end because that's a solved problem, my flight bag will do the job, or a plastic box that can double as a container for food, kettle etc, and the kit when it's stowed away.



There seems to be plenty "headroom" above the foot end of the airbed. It's still on a slight slope and as I said that could be rectified, but it seems fine to me.



I'm five-seven. The full extent of the mattress is said to be six-two, though that might be a slight over-estimate. I fit in just fine and I would think anyone under six feet would be OK. Taller people might have to experiment with diagonal placement, as the OP suggests.



Now all I need to do is find out how to make the HVAC stay on all night. A problem for another day. (I haven't tried the "get out on the passenger side" and variants yet. I'm also wondering if leaving the seat belt fastened might do something.)

Rolfe said:

I'm very pleased with my two new purchases. Picnic table (which I needed anyway for the washing basket when hanging out the line!) and a new air mattress to replace the 30+ year old one that wasn't staying inflated.

This seems to be a good hack for the SE without the false floor that the Trophy has. Table and garden chair almost bring the foot end of the air mattress up to the level of the folded-down seat backs - yes, really, the photo is deceptive. It wouldn't be hard to put something else in to raise it a bit more but I don't think it's necessary.

View attachment 25157

The new airbed at a nominal 185 cm is not too long for the space available and in fact fits in very neatly indeed. The mains-operated pump is a thing of beauty, doing the job in seconds, and also capable of sucking the air out to deflate it as well. Obviously it can be run from VtL.

View attachment 25158

I didn't bother putting a support under the head end because that's a solved problem, my flight bag will do the job, or a plastic box that can double as a container for food, kettle etc, and the kit when it's stowed away.

View attachment 25159

There seems to be plenty "headroom" above the foot end of the airbed. It's still on a slight slope and as I said that could be rectified, but it seems fine to me.

View attachment 25160

I'm five-seven. The full extent of the mattress is said to be six-two, though that might be a slight over-estimate. I fit in just fine and I would think anyone under six feet would be OK. Taller people might have to experiment with diagonal placement, as the OP suggests.

View attachment 25161

Now all I need to do is find out how to make the HVAC stay on all night. A problem for another day. (I haven't tried the "get out on the passenger side" and variants yet. I'm also wondering if leaving the seat belt fastened might do something.)

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Looking well organised there, well done. I’ve noticed the guys who convert small van based cars like the Berlingo etc always fit some easy way to open the tailgate as a potential emergency exit.
I’ve not taken it any further yet - I think I’ll just carry and pitch the wee tent as required.

Archev said:

Looking well organised there, well done. I’ve noticed the guys who convert small van based cars like the Berlingo etc always fit some easy way to open the tailgate as a potential emergency exit.
I’ve not taken it any further yet - I think I’ll just carry and pitch the wee tent as required.

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The physical key blade inside the fob can do it. Just remove the cover on the other side of the boot latch and you should see a slot for the blade to go in to. Much less fiddley though, to keep a screwdriver with the right sized blade handy or fit some kind of handle.

webhiker said:

A small hack for solo car camping
If you raise the floor and fold the rear seats, you can create a (mostly) flat area, long enough for me to sleep there diagonally.

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it works for MG5, probably does for all MGs ?. Lift out bottom seat cushions, then wedge them into footwell [out of the way], seat backs then fold down flat!

Lifting out the bottom seat cushions and (even worse) replacing them is fraught with difficulty. I do not advise it.

Rolfe said:

Lifting out the bottom seat cushions and (even worse) replacing them is fraught with difficulty. I do not advise it.

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moving the seat cushions only a temporary fix, to achieve required flat floor!. was never suggesting, removing!, replacing!. Moving the bottom seat cushions, is a relatively simple and safe procedure.

If you mean this, I couldn't do it. I had to get the dealer to do it.



Then when it came to putting it back (with the seat covers fitted) the dealer ran into trouble and had to order a replacement part.

have to admit, l have not done this personally, but l got the information on the forum, and it seemed fairly straightforward.

I had thought I might get a second set of seat covers to change with. Not on your life, the ones I have are staying on till they wear through. Because no way am I going to move that rear seat unless I have to.

Now the seat backs aren't hard to remove, and that does give you a flat bed (except for the fixing ring that sticks up), but since the middle seat belt stops the larger side from being removed from the car and you have to put it in the footwell I'm not persuaded it's worth it.

Looking at the possibility of camping without hook-up.

I have the official MG V2L adapter and the items in use will generally only use around 1kw max output (except for blowing up the camp beds at 1.6kw but nothing else in use at this stage) but as far as I can tell, when the car is in enter or ready mode, the DRL's are constantly lit.

I have read various forums and cannot find a definitive answer (although most say no) but is there (or has anyone ever) found a way to turn off the DRL's and use the car in true camp mode?

On a side note, for those that have used the car's V2L options, can the car be locked and still have output to the V2L?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

Car in use (if it makes a difference) MG4 Trophy LR

Hi, I have seen a couple of similar threads have you put a few words in the search bar?

I've merged this in to the most recent thread about camping in the car, where this is one of the issues discussed. As far as I can see the only thing you can do is find something to cover the lights with.

There was a post in an earlier thread where someone mentioned having some sort of magnetic cover to shroud the lights, and that it blew off in a high wind.

ETA: I found the first thread too and I've merged them all, so we don't have to keep scratching round for the information.

Tunemasterfunk said:

Looking at the possibility of camping without hook-up.

I have the official MG V2L adapter and the items in use will generally only use around 1kw max output (except for blowing up the camp beds at 1.6kw but nothing else in use at this stage) but as far as I can tell, when the car is in enter or ready mode, the DRL's are constantly lit.

I have read various forums and cannot find a definitive answer (although most say no) but is there (or has anyone ever) found a way to turn off the DRL's and use the car in true camp mode?

On a side note, for those that have used the car's V2L options, can the car be locked and still have output to the V2L?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

Car in use (if it makes a difference) MG4 Trophy LR

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Alternatively, do the DRL's have a specific fuse which is easy to find/pull? (if it wasn't a company car I would mess about and experiment a little)

Thank you.

brem93 said:

Sorry about the delay to reply, busy week.

So over the 10 days in Scotland I stayed in the car 6 nights, in some below zero weather too! Depending on where I parked up and slept, I was able to keep the car on, as long as I covered up the lights with some of my magnetic blackout curtains I use for the windows.

However in windy weather these would blow off so I just turned off the car by locking it. This just meant a lot of window condensation in the morning but with a towel I wiped this down and ran heater to dry it all up. No issues at all!!

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This is the post that intrigues me. I still don't know how to do that. There are still some suggestions I haven't tried, but if it was as complicated as these (getting out of the passenger side, pressing brake pedal with stick etc.) I'd have thought that @brem93 (who seems to have left the building) might have mentioned it.

Any thoughts?

This is also the post that mentions covering the lights with "some of my magnetic blackout curtains I use for the windows." I have no idea what it is he's using, but it sounds useful.

Tunemasterfunk said:

Alternatively, do the DRL's have a specific fuse which is easy to find/pull? (if it wasn't a company car I would mess about and experiment a little)

Thank you.

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I think someone might have discussed that earlier in this thread, if you read back.

Rolfe said:

I think someone might have discussed that earlier in this thread, if you read back.

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Yes I read this but it mentions 2 high amp fuses for a single set of LED lights? Again this doesn't convince me this would be accurate information.

I have read many forums that skirt around this topic but I am yet to find definitive answers to these questions.

I will experiment with the V2L and if this can be set to operate when the car is locked (this would give me power and the lights would be off) but I guess this is not possible at the HV battery would need to be active which in turn means the lights are on.

Thank you.

My problem is exactly the opposite. Any time I have tried, the car has turned itself off after about half an hour. Lights and all. Fine, except I want it to stay on. I want the HVAC on, and the stereo. I don't want to wake up freezing in the middle of the night with the windows running with condensation.

How? I'll live with the bloody lights if necessary, if I can only manage that part.