I removed the rear seat. The swab is just pull up at the front but it is still hooked at the rear. You have to push it back a bit to unhook it.
Seat back just unlatch and put forward then lift out of mounts on either side. They are joined together through a center mount so slide each out. Also...
I removed the SRS control module (and can confirm it's a pig of a job). Can now drives.
Interested in feedback about the impact sensors. Does anyone know whether they are 'use once' or re-usable. They only have two connection wires and are open circuit so I'm not sure how the work.
Top gear (usually 1:1) through a diff (4.X:1) is too high. Tesla S/LDUs use a 9.X:1 ratio reduction box. So a lower gear in combination with the diff achieve similar.
Tesla use an 9.X:1 reduction gear in the SDU/LDU.
Most ICE vehicles use a reduction to the diff of around 4:1. So I assume some gear reduction is required via the gearbox for the best drivability.
I know Zero EV do a motor you can connect to your gearbox, or a motor with reduction gear you can...
Simplicity of install sake mostly. Replace the engine with a motor and leave the car in 2nd or 3rd gear.
Instead I used a Tesla SDU in place of my diff.
ICE cars have gearboxes because they have a very limited usable torque range. You need a low gear so you can rev the engine into this range and have to torque to take off. You have a high gear (typically a 1:1) so you can drive at highway speeds.
As EVs have adequate torque from 0rpm all the way...
Yeah, Im not new to forums in general. I’m a founding member and moderator on the most respected Honda S2000 forum that has been running for over 20 years.
It’s a case of nature hates a vacuum. If you don’t have people who know and provide valid answers the peanut gallery will put in their 2c...
What did I say about guesses!
Actually you're probably right. ;)
I hadn't looked at those boxes too closely. It has HV in and coolant spigots.
Quite small for a DC-DC converter but that is a good thing.
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