622gw dashcam install

[braincell]

I have a MG4 trophy and I have just bought a nextbase 622gw dashcam with rear camera....

My app reports the resting voltage for the battery is 12.2v and the hardware kit is rated too 11.6v.

All adjustable voltage cutoffs use a usb c connector which the nextbase doesn't have.

Anyone here got a 622 fitted using the parking mode ???

Thanks

Lee

 

[MG Clive]

Welcome to the forum @braincell.

Here are a couple of previous threads if you haven't already searched and found them.

Thread 'Nextbase 622GW with Rear Cam power requirements'

Dec 9, 2022

Hi all,

Does anyone know if the rear mirror USB, on the ZS EV facelift model, will power a Nextbase 622GW with rear camera? I'm not keen on hard wiring a dashcam in a leased vehicle.

Many thanks in advance.
Colin

• evcog
• mg zs ev
• Replies: 8
• Forum: MG ZS EV Forum

Thread 'Nextbase 622 dash cam and mirror housing USB port'

Mar 10, 2023

Hi,

I've had a simple dash cam fitted for a while powered from the mirror housing USB port. It's been working fine.

Decided to get a better dash cam with higher quality picture, rear camera and GPS etc.

On trying out the newer camera it was ok with just the front camera, but hooking up the rear camera it would power down.

I changed the input power to the supplied cigarette lighter and all is well.

I am assuming that the inbuilt USB port is unable to provide sufficient power. This is a shame as that means a bit more work to install a hardwire kit.

Just wanted to ask if anyone has a...

• Aussi55
• dash cam mg zs ev usb
• Replies: 4
• Forum: MG ZS EV Upgrades & Accessories

 

[braincell]

Hi , yea , I read those threads but it doesn't really answer what I wanted to know.

The hardwired fusebox and OBD will work, but , I was wondering if the 11.6v cutoff has caused anyone any problems with dead batteries

 

[Martinonline]

I have had the 12V battery go below 12V on 2 occasions in the 32 months I've had my Trophy. The first time at about 6 months and the 12V battery recovered when I con ected the car to my granny charger.

The second time at 26 months was more challenging and, although the car unlocked and powered up, it would not charge the 12V battery nor the HV battery, on AC nor on DC, so I had to connect my booster which must have triggered the charging circuit because all worked after that and since.

 

[braincell]

That's exactly what I'm afraid of, I can simply wire to the 12v socket and do away with parking detection but I really wanted parking with a sane cutoff value.

I could buy a variable cutoff on a usb c hardwire kit and butcher the connections to keep the battery above 12v which seems the sane value although I checked my 13plate trophy earlier on the app and it said 12.2v .... :/

 

[Martinonline]

The car should keep the 12V battery topped up but the circuit failed to work on those two occasions. However the rest of the time it has worked.

My 23plate (I assume yours is the same?) 12V battery usually runs between 12.1V and 12.5V when not charging.

 

[braincell]

Yes , phone typo above , mine is 23 plate, do you know why the top up charge failed ?

In that scenario can a jump pack get the car running again ?

 

[Martinonline]

No I don't know why the charging failed; I treated it as a software glitch. I don't know at what voltage the car will fail to unlock and power up. See below and the post about my experience today and my second failure experience. I recommend carrying a battery booster, as you can also help ICE owners.

This morning, when I was out for an hour, I checked the battery level 3 times on the app and it dropped from 12.2V to 12.0V. Not wanting to be left high and dry, I did not check the car until I returned an hour later. The battery was at 11.9V but the car unlocked and when powered up starting charging the battery at 14.3V. I left it powered up and it is now showing a consistent 12.5V.

I don't know what the 12V battery voltage should drop to when the car is unpowered before the HV battery boosts it and some say that the HV battery needs to be above 50% when the car is powered down before it will do that. My HV battery is currently at 34%. However the 50% seems strange because it is charging at 34%. So it may be that voltage sensing circuit is periodic and that sometimes only detects a low voltage when there isn't sufficient power to activate the 12V battery charging circuit.

My Trophy showed a low-voltage battery charging problem when I went to drive it yesterday. The car was showing 11.9V. I've had this before and then after a quick power on and granny-charge the error disappeared. However this time I could not cancel it, a quick drive saw the voltage drop to 11.7V. I am away from home but tried to charge with the hotel's 16amp EVSE. Car would not connect and usual fixes failed. Drove to a 50kW charging station and tried DC but again no joy. (100% level set, no schedules.)

Back at the hotel the battery level was 11.5V. So I unpacked my Noco battery booster and connected it to the battery (with clicking (relay) noises coming from a unit to the right of the battery). The battery reached 14.2V and after I disconnected the booster went to 14.3V. I shut down the car and left it overnight during which time the battery went down to 12.5V.

This morning I powered up the car and it showed no faults and the expected 14.2V charging level. I connected it to the hotel's EVSE and it started charging with no issues.

I don't know if the fault would have corrected itself without the booster but I am just grateful to those posters who recommended carrying one.

 

[braincell]

It's looking like I should invest in a battery booster.....

 

[siteguru]

FWIW, I believe that the iSmart app under reads the 12V battery status ... so when it shows, say, 12.1V I believe that it is probably more like 12.3V.

I have no evidence to support this belief ... it is just that, a belief.