Brakes failed

I would not recommend switching on MG pilot traffic, if you wish to use it that way make sure you have it on and running before u get to stopped traffic. I have not used the cruise control in stop start traffic but after some amount of time standing still doesn’t it go back to standby.
It goes to standby if you are in built-up traffic and you are sitting for a while, a warning comes up on the screen telling you to use the accelerator to continue it then automatically goes back to your last setting and the car carries on as normal.
 
Toyota Prius did have a software problem which aloud the cars braking system to fail at slow speed, this was found to be a software timing issue when going from KERs to physical hydraulic brake and the computer freezing for a few seconds before appling the brakes, It sound to me that a software issue on the ren braking and physical hydraulic braking system, Toyota took a long time finding the fault but only after many people had low speed crashes.
I have noticed on my MG ZS that when acc is engaged and then switched off my myself it sometime does not engage the KERs for about 3 second yet other times switching off acc the KERs is engaged instantly.
Any issue with brakes should be reported to MG because if people don't nothing gets done because MG does not know about it.
 
I experienced the following scenario last night.

I was coming up to a roundabout and had my foot hovering above the accelerator and letting KERS do the braking. The road surface at the junction had recently been planed as it is due to be resurfaced. As I moved from the tarmac down to the planed surface the car jolted over the bump in the road. My foot must have made contact with the accelerator as the car picked up speed. Luckily I was able to manually break but it was a bit of a shock.

I know that this probably is not what happened with the OP but I thought it was worth mentioning.
I've found, using MG pilot, if the car hits a big hole in the road or split levels of the road, the car automatically slows down and picks up speed again it can be a bit frustrating both for the driver and cars behind, also when going round a sharpish bend MG pilot slows down the car, I found that it takes longer than it should to slow down approaching the bend as it doesn't recognise the bend with the MG Pilot, I'm sure it works on the steering wheel turning into the corner, which I feel is too slow and can be a bit disconcerting, much in the same way it uses the indicator to speed up to overtake a car in front when autopilot recognises a car in front is going slower than you than y and slows down.
 
No. Had just done the school run. Why the radar didn’t activate the autonomous braking is something else that needs investigating. Not sure how that system is supposed to work to be honest.
Do you have a full-sized number plate? I have full-sized one and it looks to me it may partly cover the front sensor. Some say it affects the sensor and others say it does not. If it happens again you could try pulling up on the handbrake switch on the centre console. That might put on the handbrake. My passenger did that yesterday as I was coasting up to a crossing and the handbrake engaged until she let go.
No. Had just done the school run. Why the radar didn’t activate the autonomous braking is something else that needs investigating. Not sure how that system is supposed to work to be honest.
 
I paid particular attention today to the pedals, it is reasonably easy to press the go pedal whilst pressing the brake pedal....
Yes it is @JodyS21 .
I have spoken about this earlier in this post.
This can be seen easterly this way.
While the car is standing still in the fully booted mode, press the footbrake down slowly but firmly.
But apply pressure making sure your right foot is placed over to the RIGHT hand side of the pedal foot plate.
As you feel your foot sink, just BEFORE your foot has come to the point where brake pressure / resistance can be felt, the outside of you foot wear WILL touch the “GO” pedal slightly earlier.
In effect, your foot wear will be contacting both pedals together.
As we know, EV’s are very responsive to even light pressure on the “GO” pedal.
So, in this condition the car wants to speed up, just before the point when the foot brake would be applying good pressure to the foot brake, in order to slow down the car.
The bigger your foot size or foot wear, the easier this is to reproduce.
If you apply foot pressure directly to the centre section of the footbrake pad, then there is no problem of course.
Try it for yourself and you will clearly see my point.
Do not attempt this while the car is in “DRIVE” of course !.
I can hear👂you now ….. “Arhhh …. I see what he means now 🤣”.
I don’t think it’s a complete design error, more of a driver foot placement error I guess ?.
If the contact pressure point for the footbrake was slightly earlier, or the “GO” pedal contact point was latter, then it would not happen, due to the bigger over lap.
So I guess it could be ( like most things ) be improved.
If the OP had been unlucky enough to experience this condition on the day of his accident, then this MAY just go some way into explaining what happened.
A bit of a “Perfect Storm” of events ????.
 
Yes it is @JodyS21 .
I have spoken about this earlier in this post.
This can be seen easterly this way.
While the car is standing still in the fully booted mode, press the footbrake down slowly but firmly.
But apply pressure making sure your right foot is placed over to the RIGHT hand side of the pedal foot plate.
As you feel your foot sink, just BEFORE your foot has come to the point where brake pressure / resistance can be felt, the outside of you foot wear WILL touch the “GO” pedal slightly earlier.
In effect, your foot wear will be contacting both pedals together.
As we know, EV’s are very responsive to even light pressure on the “GO” pedal.
So, in this condition the car wants to speed up, just before the point when the foot brake would be applying good pressure to the foot brake, in order to slow down the car.
The bigger your foot size or foot wear, the easier this is to reproduce.
If you apply foot pressure directly to the centre section of the footbrake pad, then there is no problem of course.
Try it for yourself and you will clearly see my point.
Do not attempt this while the car is in “DRIVE” of course !.
I can hear👂you now ….. “Arhhh …. I see what he means now 🤣”.
I don’t think it’s a complete design error, more of a driver foot placement error I guess ?.
If the contact pressure point for the footbrake was slightly earlier, or the “GO” pedal contact point was latter, then it would not happen, due to the bigger over lap.
So I guess it could be ( like most things ) be improved.
If the OP had been unlucky enough to experience this condition on the day of his accident, then this MAY just go some way into explaining what happened.
A bit of a “Perfect Storm” of events ????.
I had my big clunky work boots on which made it easier.
I wonder if the pedals are closer together than on other cars or something
 
I have to disagree, although there is probably a direct input between brake pedal and hydraulics but there logically must be computer input for two reasons. First. AEB is a computer function, secondly there is no inlet manifold on an EV to provide activate the brake servo, the vacuum is provided by a pump which will be turned on/off by the computer
I have had instances where I feel, when slowing down at a junction for example, there is a brief period where I don’t feel the car slowing as much as expected and I have to brake harder. I’ve assumed it’s down to slight difference in technique between ICE and EV - when u slow down in a manual ICE you dip the clutch at last second so as not to stall but have both engine braking and foot brake until that point. In an EV, as soon as you touch the foot brake the KERS is cancelled i assume so the de-acceleration is foot brake only
The other question is, is the same computer used for AEB etc as the infotainment? If so it’s a bit worrying cos the infotainment response to anything is bloody awful
@PaulWaun what makes you think KERS is cancelled when the brakes are applied? If you watch the power gauge you can clearly see that braking increases the regen considerably. In effect braking is highest KERS plus friction brake.
 
The pedal box on my wife’s Fiat 500 is tight, but the travel of the foot brake and the throttle pedals don’t clash with each other.
The pedal height of the foot brake is a huge height difference from the throttle pedal.
It’s a manual of course.
But you tend to place your foot directly over the centre of a smaller brake pedal because the contact area size of the pad is much smaller.
On a car with the larger foot brake pedal, the contact pad is huge, so foot placement tends to be a bit erratic.
Some times you hit it dead on centre, then other times your foot CAN favour the right hand side on the contact pad.
This where you can cover both brake and “GO” pedals simultaneously just briefly.
 
Toyota Prius did have a software problem which aloud the cars braking system to fail at slow speed, this was found to be a software timing issue when going from KERs to physical hydraulic brake and the computer freezing for a few seconds before appling the brakes, It sound to me that a software issue on the ren braking and physical hydraulic braking system, Toyota took a long time finding the fault but only after many people had low speed crashes.
I have noticed on my MG ZS that when acc is engaged and then switched off my myself it sometime does not engage the KERs for about 3 second yet other times switching off acc the KERs is engaged instantly.
Any issue with brakes should be reported to MG because if people don't nothing gets done because MG does not know about it.
Sorry but that is utter BS/nonsense, the hydraulic brakes come on as soon as you press the pedal a bit further down, a light press gives kers.
Do you have a reference a link to these "slow speed crashes", that "many people" had, it's the first I've heard of it in 12 years of Prius ownership and as a member of 2 forums, one in the UK and one in the US.
The only crashes that were reported were claimed to be "unintended acceleration" and were found to be due incorrectly fitted floor mats sliding up and pressing the accelerator.
 
View attachment 4871Anyone had their brakes fail?
I’ve had it twice where when pushing the brake pedal it cancels the KERS but doesn’t engage the brakes. 2nd time was on our downward sloped driveway and ended up smashing into the house.
MG customer service not taking this seriously. I was wondering if anyone else has had same or similar issues?
 
"5. If you have non-genuine car mats I would check them to see if they have interfered with the pedals. I have seen this with the mats getting tangled in the steering rack which is exposed in the drivers footwell"

I've had this before in an ICE car. Happily doing 70(ish) on the M5 in cruise control, when I had to brake. What I didn't know was the car mat was blocking the brake pedal. As I couldn't slow down I was panicking like mad, every lane was slowing down and I was ploughing on. Had to literally stamp on the brakes to release the cruise. Very scary and actually my first thought when I saw this.
Why didn't you just disengage the cruise control with the buttons/controls? I know that doesn't fix the mats being stuck, but it would have slowed you down with engine braking.
When they had "unintended" acceleration cases in America, it seems nobody thought to switch their ignitions off, use the "emergency brake" or put their car in neutral. I know it's probably a scary situation but you'd hope common sense would prevail.
I'm inclined to think this is driver error instead of anything as nonsensical as brakes completely failing.
 
Why didn't you just disengage the cruise control with the buttons/controls? I know that doesn't fix the mats being stuck, but it would have slowed you down with engine braking.
When they had "unintended" acceleration cases in America, it seems nobody thought to switch their ignitions off, use the "emergency brake" or put their car in neutral. I know it's probably a scary situation but you'd hope common sense would prevail.
I'm inclined to think this is driver error instead of anything as nonsensical as brakes completely failing.
I’m sure the original poster really appreciates your comments and judgment on the matter ….
 
Why didn't you just disengage the cruise control with the buttons/controls? I know that doesn't fix the mats being stuck, but it would have slowed you down with engine braking.
When they had "unintended" acceleration cases in America, it seems nobody thought to switch their ignitions off, use the "emergency brake" or put their car in neutral. I know it's probably a scary situation but you'd hope common sense would prevail.
I'm inclined to think this is driver error instead of anything as nonsensical as brakes completely failing.
Simply the method to cancel the cruise was to press the brake pedal, the the speed controller buttons wouldn't slow the car down quick enough. Easily the most scared I have been in a car without crashing. But not as scary as having an 18 wheeler pull out on me an me plough into it at about 30mph. 💩💩💩
 
Had a wee bit unusual experience earlier this morning.

Level 3 wasn't giving full regen because it was still a bit cool outside, but it was still giving some decent braking performance. Skirted the edge of a puddle (50ish, not too deep, lots of spray but nothing more than a very slight drag towards the puddle). Got a wee bit further towards the roundabout at the end of the stretch, lifted fully off, and was lucky if I got level 1 regen. Was a bit of a surprise, especially given how wet it's been over the last few days, and I've been through far deeper than that just recently.

Is it possible the op had something similar happen?
 
Macd2401 - I suggest the following: it is common practise with Stability Control systems to disengage speed control if any items of loss of stability are present. In this case, going through a deep puddle can cause the wheels to rotate at different speeds, similar to when a skid occurs. Thus it would be logical to reduce or eliminate regen under those circumstances as it could make matters worse.
The law of unintended circumstances applies.
 
Will have to wait for the cars return before I can take it to a MG dealership for investigation.

You might want to take it to an independent vehicle engineering specialist - if what you have descriebed here is accurate then there is a fault with your car. MG aren't easily going to admit any liability. Speak to your insurance company too.
 
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