Can you reduce the MG ZS EV charging current?

TechnicPuppet

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Strange issue. I don't think my basic wall charger was installed properly, I had a plug in hybrid at the time so never noticed until I got an Ioniq. When I got this the charge kept stopping after 10 minutes. I think the fuse isn't enough possibly. So on my Ioniq I can adjust the charging rate to low and this solves the problem.

My wife's MG ZS EZ arrives next week and I'm wondering if it has the same option as the Ioniq to lower the current?

I am getting a new properly fitted Ohme smart charger but it won't be installed for a month so need to find a solution until then.
 
Strange issue. I don't think my basic wall charger was installed properly, I had a plug in hybrid at the time so never noticed until I got an Ioniq. When I got this the charge kept stopping after 10 minutes. I think the fuse isn't enough possibly. So on my Ioniq I can adjust the charging rate to low and this solves the problem.

My wife's MG ZS EZ arrives next week and I'm wondering if it has the same option as the Ioniq to lower the current?

I am getting a new properly fitted Ohme smart charger but it won't be installed for a month so need to find a solution until then.
I suggest you try the ZS on your home EVSE if it is ok then great or if not use the granny lead until your Ohme is fitted.
 
not sure which fuse you are talking about, but there is nothing that can detect the size of a fuse and therefore stop the charge because the fuse is too small, the fuse will give everything it is asked for until it blows or trips.
 
not sure which fuse you are talking about, but there is nothing that can detect the size of a fuse and therefore stop the charge because the fuse is too small, the fuse will give everything it is asked for until it blows or trips.
My Ioniq can charge at 3 different rates, the lowest rate doesn't trip the fuse. Been using it that way for 2 years.
 
My Ioniq can charge at 3 different rates, the lowest rate doesn't trip the fuse. Been using it that way for 2 years.
the fuse actually trips, thats different. Yep pulling too much current for the rated fuse, a standard 7kw EV charger should be on at least a 32amp fuse or circuit breaker as the charger will want to pull 30 amps . Definitely sounds like a bodged install.
 
the fuse actually trips, thats different. Yep pulling too much current for the rated fuse, a standard 7kw EV charger should be on at least a 32amp fuse or circuit breaker as the charger will want to pull 30 amps . Definitely sounds like a bodged install.
Bodged install or a bodged setup (charger dependent)- IIRC there was functionality in my charger to limit the supply current, presumably as a way of preventing this
 
I had massive problems with my Golf GTE. Not tripping a fuse though just everything else and I think they replaced the charger about 3 times. I think the car might have been breaking the charger I dunno. I don't think the GTE was taking full charge though because it was only a hybrid though again not sure.

So anyway Golf was returned and I got an Ioniq. It's been mostly great but the charger issue was apparent straight away, however I was out of warranty and waiting on MG ordered for wife with new free charger.

The company fitting new charger seem to have done it right. They arranged a long time ago for prep work to done which included the fitting of an isolation switch and separating our loop from neighbours. So I'm hoping that all my issues are fixed with new charger.
 
Just wanted to provide a little update on this. I plugged it in tonight as we got bored going to public charger. It's working and not tripping. We never changed anything because there isn't anything to change but it says it's going at roughly 2kw so very slow but fine for our needs for another week.
 
Just wanted to provide a little update on this. I plugged it in tonight as we got bored going to public charger. It's working and not tripping. We never changed anything because there isn't anything to change but it says it's going at roughly 2kw so very slow but fine for our needs for another week.
Is it tethered or untethered?
 
And it's a 7kw 32amp charger or 3kw 16amp
That is a very good point.
The VW GTE can only pull 3.5 Kw’s and therefore the lower output 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box would have suited the GTE just fine.
When we had our wall box fitted when we bought a VW GTE.
However, I decided to increase the spec of the wall box and opted for the higher output 7 Kw / 32 Amp unit.
Overkill at the time for the GTE but I considered I was a building in a bit of future proofing at the same time.
This certainly paid off when we went full BEV four years later !.
IF you did have a 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box installed ( because of the GTE ) then it WILL charge a full BEV okay still, but the rate of charging will be cut by 50% of what the car car except.
So, if you were on a cheaper rate “Off Peak” tariff that only lasted 5 hours for example.
Then maximising that 5 hours on a slower charging speed is not ideal really.
It’s worth checking on what your old wall box was rated at ?.
The new charger will be a 32 Amp 7 Kw unit of course ????.
 
And it's a 7kw 32amp charger or 3kw 16amp
I thought it was a 7kw charger but now not sure sure.
That is a very good point.
The VW GTE can only pull 3.5 Kw’s and therefore the lower output 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box would have suited the GTE just fine.
When we had our wall box fitted when we bought a VW GTE.
However, I decided to increase the spec of the wall box and opted for the higher output 7 Kw / 32 Amp unit.
Overkill at the time for the GTE but I considered I was a building in a bit of future proofing at the same time.
This certainly paid off when we went full BEV four years later !.
IF you did have a 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box installed ( because of the GTE ) then it WILL charge a full BEV okay still, but the rate of charging will be cut by 50% of what the car car except.
So, if you were on a cheaper rate “Off Peak” tariff that only lasted 5 hours for example.
Then maximising that 5 hours on a slower charging speed is not ideal really.
It’s worth checking on what your old wall box was rated at ?.
The new charger will be a 32 Amp 7 Kw unit of course ????.
I don't even know how to tell what they installed. I'm sure it was meant to be 7kw but maybe not.

The new one is the Ohme Home Pro which I think is pretty decent and 32A/7.4kw.
 
That is a very good point.
The VW GTE can only pull 3.5 Kw’s and therefore the lower output 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box would have suited the GTE just fine.
When we had our wall box fitted when we bought a VW GTE.
However, I decided to increase the spec of the wall box and opted for the higher output 7 Kw / 32 Amp unit.
Overkill at the time for the GTE but I considered I was a building in a bit of future proofing at the same time.
This certainly paid off when we went full BEV four years later !.
IF you did have a 16 Amp 3.5 Kw wall box installed ( because of the GTE ) then it WILL charge a full BEV okay still, but the rate of charging will be cut by 50% of what the car car except.
So, if you were on a cheaper rate “Off Peak” tariff that only lasted 5 hours for example.
Then maximising that 5 hours on a slower charging speed is not ideal really.
It’s worth checking on what your old wall box was rated at ?.
The new charger will be a 32 Amp 7 Kw unit of course ????.
That's what I was thinking could explain the problem with the ioniq?
 
That's what I was thinking could explain the problem with the ioniq?
It would explain it yeah. The lower rate is possibly under the three whereas the medium and high rate aren't.

Doesn't really explain the MG unless there's it has some way of knowing and adjusting the rate itself. It's been charging for hours now always hovering around 2kw.
 
What size fuse is supplying it?
It says B32 on it.

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