Car not charging on DC chargers / Fault code P1EB2 Battery Interface Control Module 1 Not Programmed

wandle MG4 trophy

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Anyone have knowledge or experience of this fault code which the AA diagnosed on my 10 month old Trophy?

I have been happily charging the car since new on a 7 kWh charger at home with occasional charges on fast chargers. Yesterday I tried to top up at a Gridserve 350 kWh charger. It didn’t work. I tried 3 different machines. On each occasion the Gridserve machine said there was a fault with the car and Gridserve support were unable to help.

The 7kwh chargers at my hotel are both not working and there’s no option to granny charge. I called the AA who escorted me to another Gridserve 50 kWh charger which also didn’t work. The AA disconnected my 12 volt battery several times and eventually diagnosed the fault code P1EB2. I went back to the hotel. The AA were brilliant by the way.

I’m at a remote hotel with 12 miles of range left and no chargers in range. I’m 200 miles away from home and at the start of a 4 day holiday where we planned to drive around quite a bit. I need to get the car recovered by the AA today.

Just wondering if this might be a quick dealer software update or a lengthy wait for hardware.

Vexed and irked to say the least.
 
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How long have you had your car? I seem to remember that there was an issue with early cars not liking rapid chargers but I think that was solved with a software update.
 
How long have you had your car? I seem to remember that there was an issue with early cars not liking rapid chargers but I think that was solved with a software update.
Bought the car at the end of December. It last had updates (unknown) about 3 months ago. MG assist are collecting the car and trying to source a courtesy car for me
 
What a nightmare!

I had heard some cars were doing this, although mine wasn't. I tried a 50 Kw rapid that's five minutes walk from me at an early stage and it was OK. Then they did a software update before I was going on a long trip, I tried that charger again, and then drove 20 miles to try Gridserve and Applegreen, just in case. It was all fine, but I can just imagine being stuck somewhere 150 miles from home and a car that I can't fuel.

Nobody should need to do that on a new car, and they have no business selling anyone a car that won't talk to a rapid charger. I really, really hope they get you a courtesy car which is fit for a holiday drive, and do it soon, and you have a good holiday after all.
 
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I had this error code. Charged at work using a 7KW charger. As I was driving off I got lots of errors (see pics) when I plugged in my diagnostic tool I got the same error. I left the 12v battery unplugged for 10 mins and it has seemed to have gone away. I do have it booked in at the end of the month to check everything over.
 

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MG Assist and the AA have been very good. They sorted a courtesy car (on a Sunday) and recovered mine. However when rhe driver of the car does not accompany the vehicle being recovered the AA has 48 hours to get the car back to a dealer. Mine is still sitting in a service area on the M4 awaiting a different tow truck to take into London. It appears the recovery is done in relays with the car left in a car park with the key taped under the wheel arch whilst it awaits the next AA recovery team.
 
MG Assist and the AA have been very good. They sorted a courtesy car (on a Sunday) and recovered mine. However when rhe driver of the car does not accompany the vehicle being recovered the AA has 48 hours to get the car back to a dealer. Mine is still sitting in a service area on the M4 awaiting a different tow truck to take into London. It appears the recovery is done in relays with the car left in a car park with the key taped under the wheel arch whilst it awaits the next AA recovery team.
This is pretty normal, the AA are responsible for safe transit of your vehicle, be sure to check it over carefully when you get it back.
 
This is pretty normal, the AA are responsible for safe transit of your vehicle, be sure to check it over carefully when you get it back.
Fortunately I have a Faraday pouch in the car and asked the AA to put the key in that before hiding it under the wheel arch. Without a Faraday pouch and with keyless entry any opportunist could simply try a door handle and get into the car and steal things such as charging cable, V2L adapter, 12 volt booster etc.
 
I wonder if that's true. The extent of the area where the car detects the key seems to be very limited. A couple of times I have put my handbag down, with the key in it, very close to the car, but it still wouldn't let me in until I picked up the handbag. It's possible the wheel arch isn't covered.
 
It's easy enough to check. I might do it this afternoon.

On one occasion when the car wouldn't open my handbag was on top of a stack of boxes in the garage, about waist height, and I would have thought within the zone marked - only about a metre from the side of the car. But nope.

On another occasion I was standing beside the off-side rear door with stuff in my hands, and asked my passenger to press the passenger side door button to unlock the car for us both. Nope. I had to move forward and press the driver's door button myself. This may have been because the door button being pressed was on the opposite side of the car from the detected key, of course.

OK, I checked. @wandle MG4 trophy was right to be concerned. I used a blob of Blu-tak, and no matter where in the wheel arches I placed the key, the doors opened. Even when I put it right at the front of the front arch, where I thought that arc might not quite reach.

There's also the point that if the doors open easily, a thief might put two and two together and start looking for the key in the wheel arch. Or just chancing his luck and seeing if he can drive the car off.

I have also ascertained however that if the key is on the right of the car the left door knob will not open, and vice versa.
 
OK, I checked. @wandle MG4 trophy was right to be concerned. I used a blob of Blu-tak, and no matter where in the wheel arches I placed the key, the doors opened. Even when I put it right at the front of the front arch, where I thought that arc might not quite reach.

There's also the point that if the doors open easily, a thief might put two and two together and start looking for the key in the wheel arch. Or just chancing his luck and seeing if he can drive the car off.

I have also ascertained however that if the key is on the right of the car the left door knob will not open, and vice versa.
Thank you for checking. My car is still sitting in Heston Services car park awaiting the next AA driver in the chain to relay it into London. Good luck to anyone who tries to steal it as it has 6 miles of charge left and no ability to recharge. But they could of course steal anything in the car eg cables and my Werthers Originals.
 
Update. Car was picked up by the AA on Sunday 5 November. It arrived at MG Chiswick on Tuesday morning 7 November. They didn’t even touch it until Friday night 10 November. They charged it up over the weekend on a 7 kW charger. On Monday 13 November they identified 2 fault codes - P1EB2 and P1627. They applied the following h/v module updates : BMS, CCU, EVCC, EPMCU and IMCU. I collected the car the same day. Am now going off for a long drive and then a test charge on a Gridserve fast charger.
The AA courtesy car had to be returned after 4 days and MG Chiswick couldn’t organise another car for me.
I was told the charging fault was a known issue. Why the flip did they not alert all owners to this crucial info? Getting stranded and ruining a holiday is not a trivial matter. Imagine the analogy of Ford realising all their cars no longer run on Esso petrol and they fail to tell owners. There would rightly be an outcry.
 
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I've had this charging issue just recently .
I've had my car since October 22 and it's been as good as gold .
Recently it's failed to charge at Tesla and gridserve chargers .
It charges fine on my granny charger and at centerparcs 7.5 kW chargers last week .
Someone mentioned water in the lower two charging pin holes .
I took it to mg east London the week before I went on holiday and they charged successfully but later told me that it was on a 7.5 kW charger and that MG's servers were down.
I'm going to try again tonight on the way home . If the problem is still there I'll take it back in .
 
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The software update appears to have worked. I have successfully done short test charges on 3 x 7kW (which were never a problem), 1x AppleGreen 180kW, 1 x Gridserve 50kW and 1 x Gridserve 350kW. I didn't wait around long enough to see what speeds I was getting but at least I know they work.
 
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Hello all, new member here - please go gently with me.

I have an MG4 SE LR that I got last June. It had its first 15K service on Friday 3rd of Feb where they did whatever they normally do in a service, and a software update. Normally I charge it at home, but I was away with work last week and on Wednesday needed to use a rapid charger - and had no luck. I spent 3 hours driving around Leeds trying all manner of chargers with no luck before giving up and trying a 7kWh Pod Point charger near my hotel which worked. I have subsequently established that the car will not connect to/charge at any DC charger. AC is fine, but put a DC charger anywhere near it and nothing happens.

I sent it back into the dealership in Peterborough who have had it for the last two days. They told me that they have tested it and it is working - however I tried three chargers on my way home and none of them would connect.

Has anyone else experienced this? Or can anyone direct me to a thread where this is being discussed? Concerningly the garage told me this afternoon that they have had another MG4 have identical issues (including it working fine when they tested it). Is it easy to fix? I do a lot of milage so DC charging is pretty essential.

Many thanks

Rich
 

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