Granny charger plug burn out

[Everest]

Any hints/guidance would be gratefully received

sure... search on the many posts I have made that contain the word "BS1363".

The issue over 6+ years, as you mention, is that EV batteries are bigger now than the common 20kWh-40kWh sizes that existed before 2020, so charge times are longer and heat is more of an issue.

Never use an extension lead with a plug in charger.

I'd recommend having an interlocked commando socket installed if you don't want the cost/complexity of a fixed charging unit; combine that with a portable 16A or 32A dumb charger.

 

[salty]

Going off posts on hear, it looks like Granny Chargers have a shelf life, so to speak. Mine was perfect for 16 months, and work perfectly before the plug burn out. But I'm not 100% sure it was a recommended 10 amp one. I've ordered another one that Defo is, infact it's adjustable 6/8/10 amp. I'll still keep an eye on it, though.

 

[securespark]

Does anyone know if MK is still a brand to be trusted?

MK...

I personally do like the current design. I went to a customer clinic pre-launch and was asked to install some and give feedback on the design and ease of installation.

They were at their best up to the 80s and 90s with the introduction of the replacement Logic range, Logic Plus.
The original Logic range was introduced in 1974, I believe.

They were always the go-to brand specified by Councils and such-like. But then they started cutting costs in the manufacturing process, making the accessories cheaper and at one point, making them overseas.

They also released an Essentials range, which was a cheaper range but had to recall some items.

They have since reversed some design and manufacturing decisions, but, rather like a rusty or unreliable car, many people moved away from them in the meantime.

Consequently, they have gone down in a lot of people's estimations.

The standard covering plugs and sockets, BS1363, sets out test procedures for current loading on sockets. The rated current limit is 13A, but the BS1363 test is to apply a load of 14A on one side of a double socket and 6A on the other for a minimum of 4 hours.

There is much ambiguity on the part of MK's datasheets and debate between electricians about their double sockets, as to whether the loading on them can be 26A or not.

I personally think not.

I keep trying their tech department, but they are not picking up the phone!
Maybe they know it's me calling...

 

[WoNkY]

I have had failures on the neutral. Very common.

Almost as if sparks don't seem to tighten it up as much as the live.

Absolutely agree, the neutral seems to like coming loose. However, there is always one issue that you can not get away from. The fuse is designed to be the weakest link, fuse wire melts at around 183 degC but that is at its breaking point at whatever current rating/time. Below it’s max current breaking point it will still be heating up depending on current flow and will transfer heat to its mounting and then to the live pin and the copper wire conductor thus contributing to the other series resistances in the system. And as it gets hotter it’s resistance increases compounding the issue. So best stay away from it’s maximum rating.

 

[securespark]

But the fuse will only blow on overload or short circuit, not in normal operation.

I think I'm missing your point, maybe.

 

[WoNkY]

But the fuse will only blow on overload or short circuit, not in normal operation.

I think I'm missing your point, maybe.

Yes it will blow in those circumstances but it will still get extremely hot and not blow but still cause its self, it’s holder and possibly the socket it’s plugged into deteriorate over time.

 

[GaryMG4]

Wasn't there also an issue with dodgy Chinese fuses not having the quenching sand inside?

 

[securespark]

Yes. Again, it's down to buying known brands, but there was an issue once with counterfeit Bussmann fuses.

So you have to buy from reputable sources.