I'm just searching the manual now @Rei will let if you know which numbers I used, but if you look carefully at the pic I've ringed,Thanks for the great photos, very helpful. I might have a go at taking the front off like you did.
So which fuses are which? Permanent and switched I mean.
You need to give it a good tug, there are two phillips screws to the right hand side, under to remove before the cover can be yanked off, feels pretty brutal, but nothing broke!I'm just searching the manual now @Rei will let if you know which numbers I used, but if you look carefully at the pic I've ringed,
It's the top empty fuse F10 which is permanent live and the other 3 pin, switched is one of the 3 x 3 pin fuses 44 or 45, but just put a meter across them to make sure I've remebered the correct way around.
Just amended to 44 or 45, but please check, but you definitely can turn off the ignition (funny word for an EV) and sit in the car, making it a lot easier.
Thanks, I think you are right, F10 is permanent live. I think I'll have to take the front off to get to the other one. F44 and F45 make sense.
Does the front part just clip in like the side part, once you remove that bolt?
I will enquire of the said "jelly" stuff @securespark, just in case at 77 I am lucky enough to need it (as a cable draw through assistive product of course!) are there other usess then?As a spark, I would advise against using vaseline. Being petroleum based, it can break down plastics, including PVC.
Odd as it would seem, I would use KY Jelly (other brands are available). It's water based and won't harm the cables.
There are similar products made for dragging cables in, but they come in huge containers and they can't be used for other (ahem!) purposes when you've done the job.
1. Remove too-tight rings. Better than butter, and cheaper too! Have you priced butter recently? Robbery!I will enquire of the said "jelly" stuff @securespark, just in case at 77 I am lucky enough to need it (as a cable draw through assistive product of course!) are there other usess then?
I will enquire of the said "jelly" stuff @securespark, just in case at 77 I am lucky enough to need it (as a cable draw through assistive product of course!) are there other usess then?
Will be fun asking for it at the chemist.I will enquire of the said "jelly" stuff @securespark, just in case at 77 I am lucky enough to need it (as a cable draw through assistive product of course!) are there other usess then?
What's it for sir, it's to lubricate my long cable so it slides into the flexible sleeve easily madam, ooh is that what you call it sir, what are you doing tonight sir? Wishful thinking for this ever hopefull ole gitWill be fun asking for it at the chemist.
Stick to silicone grease from Screw - fixThat's a new one to use for sure - "I am just fitting a dashcam!".
My fuse taps (modified with a file) also had crimp connectors, but I simply stripped more insulation back and bent the wire over to double the the cable thickness, that normally does the trick.I got the front one hard wired in, thanks everyone, especially Joningy. I forgot to take photos but once that front part was off it was a lot easier. The fuse taps had crimp connectors that were a bit too big for the thin wires that the hardware adapter has, so I fitted ferrules to them and then crimped.
I was able to confirm that the F45 5A fuse is switched, and it goes off immediately when you select turn off in the car menu.
Had to put it a bit further to the right than I was intending because if you put it too close to the centre hub thing its view is partially obscured. Shame you can't rotate the lens left and right, only up and down. If I had thought about it I'd have put it on the left side and got a Bluetooth button to trigger it.
One thing I couldn't really figure out is how to get the cable under the ceiling cover stuff. I tucked it in there but it's not really held under it. Couldn't get it to lift with a plastic pry bar.
I managed to push both cables (power supply and rear cam cable) under the front roof lining on the driver’s side without too much trouble, it made sense to me to do both cables at the same time, getting the cable to the rear camera is a bit of a task as the rubber door seal needs the seal part which holds the roof lining in place un-tucked, I didn’t need to remove the whole door seal on the S5 like I had to do on the MG4, that gives perfect access to the roof void, but be a tad careful, as the curtain airbags are in that part of the roof, but there’s plenty of room for a cable.Yes I saw your post about the wiper, looking forward to that. But if you can't lift the roof lining at the front to tuck the cable under it, how can you get a cable from the back out from under it?
I might try to move it, depends how easy the cable is to pull or if an extension is possible. Left side would be better. I am also thinking of getting the interior fisheye camera. You can have it so it only comes on when parked.
Yes I saw your post about the wiper, looking forward to that. But if you can't lift the roof lining at the front to tuck the cable under it, how can you get a cable from the back out from under it?
I might try to move it, depends how easy the cable is to pull or if an extension is possible. Left side would be better. I am also thinking of getting the interior fisheye camera. You can have it so it only comes on when parked.