MG ZS Steering Fault - clicking when turning

I do wonder though how this nut and bolt would change anything - any ideas?
I am not certain how the column adjustment system works in the MG to be honest, but it is a Bosch unit I am lead to believe ?.
Therefore it is likely that is similar to the clamping system unused in other cars.
The manual lever that is used by the driver to allow up and down movement of the column is effectively attached to a large bolt, that passes through a clamping arrangement, that is around the outer upper steering column case and sits between the upper steering column mounting.
On the end of this large bolt, there is likely to be a nylon retaining nut.
It is either half inch AF or 13mm spanner 🔧 size ( same thing ).
The nut is tightened to “Pre-load” spec and the nyloc nut is used to prevent this from working loose.
This pre-load is set just enough, so that the clamp 🗜 will secure the upper column, when the adjustment lever is secured in place by the driver.
If the lever feels very easy to open, then it could be suggested that the pre-load is insufficient and the rattle through the column is due to this.
Applying more pre- load by tightening the 13 mm nut, in affect increases the clamping power of the steering column clamp.
If you check the resistance of clamping power of the lever before you start, then with the lever unlocked, tighten the locking nut a few turns, then return the lever to the locked position.
You should now be it harder to push the lever into the locked / closed position.
This is because you have increased the pre-load on the securing bolt passing through the clamp.
I would try a couple of turns on the nut first, then test drive and see if the problem has gone away.
As you column has only just started rattling, it may only take a few turns of the nut to cure the problem.
If this does cure the issue, then it could be suggested that the pre-load on this bolt is a little under valued at h the factory.
When the column was replaced, it would have been set back to factory spec’s again.
As time passes by, the set pre-load could be slightly to low and the rattle returns ?.
@Kithmo has been rattle free for a while now, because he has increased the pre-load maybe ?.
This is only my theory on the subject, I have no proof of this to be the problem.
Please post back after your test drive !.
I will be curious to know if this fix is successful.
 
Here is an exploded view of upper steering column taken from a VW.
This clearly displays how the column adjusting system works !.
You can see the long bolt ( No18 ) that passes through the upper steering column and how the lever used by the driver ( No1 ) releases the tension to allow movement, then when the lever ( No1) is returned to the locked position, it will apply pressure and tighten the long bolt, through the mounting bracket to prevent up and down movement.
Number 11 is part of the main dash rail and
is welded to the body shell of the car .
Number 13 and 15 are sheer bolts that hold the column to the body shell.
They say a picture saves a thousand words.
The MG system will be a similar set up I think.
But it appears that MG have favoured putting a 13mm nylon nut on the end of long bolt that could include the actual lever mechanism.
A slight variation of the one below, but similar enough for folks to get a better understand of what I was trying to explain in the post above this one.


A87D7A28-B9CE-4645-91F3-9E9309D9F6F4.jpeg
 
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I don't think the MG clamp works just on the principle of just tightening the bolt, from what I remember when I took the cowling off, it seems to have a sort of a cam system that rotates against the side of the column. The principle of pre-load is just the same though, the higher the pre-load, the higher pressure the cam imparts on the column as the lever is turned.
 
Well, I'll be testing the tightening of my bolt in about half an hour with a 15 mile commute! I'm still not clear though (yes, I'm that thick) - I tightened a nut on the end of the bolt shown as number 1 in the diagram, is this what you tightened @Kithmo? Thanks.
 
Well, I'll be testing the tightening of my bolt in about half an hour with a 15 mile commute! I'm still not clear though (yes, I'm that thick) - I tightened a nut on the end of the bolt shown as number 1 in the diagram, is this what you tightened @Kithmo? Thanks.
The ZS is different from that diagram.
The nut to tighten is on the opposite end of the lever shaft, basically where the bolt (18) head is shown on that diagram, there's a 13mm nyloc nut instead of a bolt head on the ZS.
 
Yep, that‘s what I found @Kithmo. Anyway, on my 15 mile drive this morning I think I noticed a couple of clicks - I didn’t hear them but felt them through the steering wheel. So it’s improved over how it was, but not totally eliminated. I’m not sure I want to tighten that bolt any further. The height adjuster was certainly tighter but not so tight that I couldn’t t move it. I still can‘t see how tightening this bolt resolves the clicking though!
 
Yep, that‘s what I found @Kithmo. Anyway, on my 15 mile drive this morning I think I noticed a couple of clicks - I didn’t hear them but felt them through the steering wheel. So it’s improved over how it was, but not totally eliminated. I’m not sure I want to tighten that bolt any further. The height adjuster was certainly tighter but not so tight that I couldn’t t move it. I still can‘t see how tightening this bolt resolves the clicking though!
The dealer tightened mine initially and there were no clicks until just before I got back home, so it only lasted about 8 miles. This is when I decided to tighten it a bit more myself and tightened it to the point of it being almost impossible to move the lever (positioning the steering at the tilt position I needed first). After 10 months I still have no clicking but the tilt lever does seem easier to move.
I don't know what is actually clicking but I suspect it's the adjuster bolt moving slightly rotationally.
 
Ours started doing this two days ago. Generally only on roundabouts and i't fine turning left into the roundabout (remember, we're on the other side you you guys, lol) but as we turn right to exit there is a click from the steering wheel/column then the wheel is about 60 degrees turned. It's from inside the car and not the steering arms/track rods etc.

Ironically, we had to take the car to the dealer's today for a software update (to hopefully fix the 'maintain vehicle soon' fault) and a repair to the driver's seat, so we added this to the list of things to look at - of course, it's done it solidly for the last two days of driving and when we tried to demonstrate ot today ..... nothing! Hopefully that will take it out for a drive and try to recreate the problem (and fix it!) before we collect it tomorrow.
 
Not any more .... our MK2 started doing this a few days back :confused:
Must have the same steering column then !.
The rattle became really loud on our Gen1 ZS In the end !.
Time will tell on the face lift I guess.
We have covered about 1500 miles now, not rattling YET 🙏.
 
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We have covered about 1500 miles now, not rattle YET 🙏.
About the same as us (2200 kms) .... We'll see what the dealer says when we collect it tomorrow, but reading the thread here, I'm not holding my breath as our dealer has proved to be pretty useless to date. Still, I'd love to be happily surprised and have to eat my words .....
 
About the same as us (2200 kms) .... We'll see what the dealer says when we collect it tomorrow, but reading the thread here, I'm not holding my breath as our dealer has proved to be pretty useless to date. Still, I'd love to be happily surprised and have to eat my words .....
Good luck 🤞.
Oh ……. While it’s there, are they checking the software version ( AKA ) to avoid the car locking up while, using a rapid charger ???.
 
Good luck 🤞.
Oh ……. While it’s there, are they checking the software version ( AKA ) to avoid the car locking up while, using a rapid charger ???.
No idea .... I've given them a list, but it's a bit of a crap-shoot on what they bother to check or not check (but I think this attitude of an almost lack of comms comes from the top down, MG France are absolutely awful for comms).
 
No idea .... I've given them a list, but it's a bit of a crap-shoot on what they bother to check or not check (but I think this attitude of an almost lack of comms comes from the top down, MG France are absolutely awful for comms).
I am sure you will be letting us know how you got on ( or not ) in due course ( please ).
 
I am sure you will be letting us know how you got on ( or not ) in due course ( please ).
Well that was an interesting day.
  • Did they fix the steering clunk? Nope. "We couldn't find any problems" was still ringing in my head as it clunked whilst driving out of the garage parking lot.
  • Did they update the firmware to fix the problem with the 'maintain vehicle soon issue? Nope, the guy just reset the service counter, so now it's out of sync and back to next service due in 24k kms (which if we actually follow will invalidate the warranty as it will be too late).
  • Did they 'repair' the driver's seat? Well yes but ... It's now worse than before they 'repaired' it.
So we went through the stage of me threatening to eat the chap's dog unless the seat is replaced immediately with a brand new one, and they provide the version numbers of all the software/firmware installed on the car and are now looking at the legal recourse we have to reject the vehicle (sadly, unless any other French member knows better than I, this will not succeed because, as far as I can tell, consumer law here is set up to protect the vendors/suppliers and not the consumers).
 
Well that was an interesting day.
  • Did they fix the steering clunk? Nope. "We couldn't find any problems" was still ringing in my head as it clunked whilst driving out of the garage parking lot.
  • Did they update the firmware to fix the problem with the 'maintain vehicle soon issue? Nope, the guy just reset the service counter, so now it's out of sync and back to next service due in 24k kms (which if we actually follow will invalidate the warranty as it will be too late).
  • Did they 'repair' the driver's seat? Well yes but ... It's now worse than before they 'repaired' it.
So we went through the stage of me threatening to eat the chap's dog unless the seat is replaced immediately with a brand new one, and they provide the version numbers of all the software/firmware installed on the car and are now looking at the legal recourse we have to reject the vehicle (sadly, unless any other French member knows better than I, this will not succeed because, as far as I can tell, consumer law here is set up to protect the vendors/suppliers and not the consumers).
Although we hoped for better, I think both had little confidence in receiving a positive outcome from this visit.
There is nothing more frustrating to leave your car at a dealership all day, to find when you collect it, that bugger all has been achieved.
It’s either, we have fixed it ( when they haven’t ) or we could not replicate the problem today sorry !.
Has the service warning light gone off now, did they do this by hooking up the car to the diag ?.
Or did they just readjust the date in the head unit ?.
You would expect there to be a service bulletin on the steering column issue by now !.
It has affected a number of the original models ( including our previous car ).
After two years, it started with a small click when turning from lock to lock.
Then it progressed to a steering column rattle that could be felt through the steering wheel while passing over broken surface tarmac roads.
The rattle was really loud at the point when we exchanged the car.
It was not something that would NOT get picked up on a road test.
I avoided getting in for rectification, because I knew it would require a new column assembly and therefore a wait of about 2 - 3 weeks for parts.
The car had already been stuck at the dealership for almost a month that year, awaiting parts to fix the electronic handbrake.
Some forum members have resulted in tightening the steering column clamping device themselves, in order to fix the problem.
Rather than take it to the dealers.
Which just about sums up how bad they think the service is that they have received.
 
Update from me after tightening that bolt in my gen1 last weekend - it's worse now. The clunks appear nearer the 12 o'clock position - around 11 and 1 o'clock - so therefore happened more frequently as even a small amount of steering will result in the clunk. So, do I tighten it more or slacken it off again? I'll have to give it some thought...
 
Update from me after tightening that bolt in my gen1 last weekend - it's worse now. The clunks appear nearer the 12 o'clock position - around 11 and 1 o'clock - so therefore happened more frequently as even a small amount of steering will result in the clunk. So, do I tighten it more or slacken it off again? I'll have to give it some thought...
Before you tighten any more, make sure it is the top end that's clicking not the joints at the bottom.
I say that because you say it's "clunking", mine was just a light clicking sound.
I tightened mine a couple of times. First time just a bit then the second time very tight, to the point I almost couldn't move the tilt lever.
 
Yes it's at the top, near the steering wheel, clunck sounds more accurate to me but clicking fits too (it's a bit louder than clicking though).
 
Yes it's at the top, near the steering wheel, clunck sounds more accurate to me but clicking fits too (it's a bit louder than clicking though).
Can you still move the tilt lever easily ?
 
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