MG4 Restricted speed - weird

[Deleted member 10041]

I had driven 350 miles been to dealer 3 times they had to take it to another dealer adding 160 miles onto vehicle.probably drive the car for around 10 hours been in dealer a lot more than I have used it nearing 4 weeks now from 10weeks or so owning it’s not good when still paying for it monthly also costing me petrol costs in other vehicle

You find yourself in an incredibly poor situation, the sad thing is you are unfortunately not alone in this, I'd be trying to claim some fuel costs back due to the time it's taking them to attempt to resolve your issues.
I'd also be asking for the car back if they were taking so long, if they turn round and say you can't because of the issues, that's more evidence to reject it.
If they give you it back and it continues to act up, yet more evidence for rejection

 

[Mars6394]

I don’t want it back in it’s current form it’s dangerous.the wife won’t go in the car no more.they advised it has serious fault ie loss power and raised a ticket with mg.awaiting on response from finance company in rejection

 

[Deleted member 10041]

I don’t want it back in it’s current form it’s dangerous.the wife won’t go in the car no more.they advised it has serious fault ie loss power and raised a ticket with mg.awaiting on response from finance company in rejection

Thats fair enough if you've completely lost faith then I think you and the car are done, the fact they are saying it has a serious fault should be the end of the matter as far a rejection goes

 

[bowfer]

Another repeat of the throttling back this morning.
69% battery.
Foot down accelerating onto bypass, car gives 100% power up to around 60mph, at which point the power meter starts tumbling down with the car eventually stopping just north of 70mph and 47% power showing on the power meter.
Got it on video.
I expect the same or worse going home, which I will video again.
I’ll have a feature film soon

 

[Deleted member 10041]

It's that heavy right foot seriously though your car definitely has an issue. Over two thirds battery and it's struggling to get to 70mph.
Look forward to hearing what your dealer says when you present them with the video!

 

[stevegus]

Or just get an EV that works properly?
Fingers half crossed they can’t fix it….
An S3…oh yeah, a real driver’s car that

The point of my previous suggestion was to see if you have some kind of overheating before you find it limits speed.

You know what an S3 is right? based on a golf gti with a lot more power than the mg4. S3’s 300hp and 0-60 in 4.8 is so poor isnt it? based on your previous posts you seem to want to drive boot to the floor and this could suit you better.

If you havnt read the manual the 150kw motor is rated to run continuously at 67kw. So perhaps you are heating it up driving fast PREVIOUS to the speed limiting, or some sensor is duff making it think battery or motor is duff

Electric cars are not designed to deliver full power ALL THE TIME hence the “get an ICE car” comment.

Also my suggestion to take it easy prior to the point you usually lose power. It would give you some better idea of whats going on rather than doing the same thing and getting the same results every time

Plus it would be nice not to see the same complaint every day

 

[stevegus]

How long have you had the car?
On what grounds are they refusing rejection, on the grounds that they want to try and fix it first?
TBH I’m 70/30 hoping they can’t fix it and I will have a really good case for rejection (a whole list of issues since I collected it)
I can’t afford to sell it, used values for 4’s are abysmal.
Being offered £3k less for a nearly new 4 than I was a year old Leaf (and a base model one too)
The evidence is the trade knows it’s a flawed car and don’t want one on their forecourt.

Any car thats not in short supply loses money the instant you take it off the forecourt.

This is not a feature unique to the MG. Who wants a used car at close to list? Unless its say a GR86 Toyota thats 6k over list second hand as there is a 2 year wait.

Compare to a Renault that can lose 6k on a 18k purchase price in 6 months.

Generally expect to lose 30% in year one selling back to a dealer and a good 10% or more on day one.

 

[liberostelios]

The point was to see if you have some kind of overheating before you find it limits speed.

And yeah an S3 is based on a golf gti with a lot more power than the mg4. S3’s 300hp and 0-60 in 4.8 is so poor isnt it?

You seem to want to “boot it” everywhere. If you havnt read the manual the 150kw motor is rated to run continuously at 67kw. So perhaps you are heating it up driving fast or some sensor is duff.

Electric cars are not designed to deliver full power ALL THE TIME hence the “get an ICE car” comment.

Also my suggestion to take it easy prior to the point you usually lose power. It would give you some better idea of whats going on rather than doing the same thing and getting the same results every time

Plus it would be nice not to see the same complaint every day

It doesn't make sense that it's the way of driving. Yes, an EV can overheat and reduce the energy output, but unless you are on a track or you drive it like a lunatic, it shouldn't happen (at least not repeatedly). And people have driven it on a track (see video) without issues. So how can this be a problem of driving style?

 

[stevegus]

It doesn't make sense that it's the way of driving. Yes, an EV can overheat and reduce the energy output, but unless you are on a track or you drive it like a lunatic, it shouldn't happen (at least not repeatedly). And people have driven it on a track (see video) without issues. So how can this be a problem of driving style?

Its possibly not. Which is why I suggested he try a light foot prior to where it usually limits just to eliminate anything weird or overheating.

Or perhaps he drives like i did back in the day like some kinda boy racer which would have simulated track driving”.

The way he describes it gradually tumbling the power down sounds like the car is limiting the power intentionally. Thats could due to temperature which may or may not be the motor overheating or a sensor thinking it is. Its not the battery as hes quoting 60% or more.

No one else seems to report this issue….

And he seems to be saying its the same stretch of road. Which is really quite weird. Like its geofenced or something!

Posting the same “it did it again like it did the previous 10x” isnt really diagnosing anything.

At least saying “it doesnt do it if i take it easy prior” adds something the garage techs might be able to use rather than “does the same thing everytime i do the same thing”.


Does it drive fast prior to it happening?

Take a different drive and see it it does it there?

Or keep doing the same thing and post it here daily.

 

[bowfer]

Its possibly not. Which is why I suggested he try a light foot prior to where it usually limits just to eliminate anything weird or overheating.

Or perhaps he drives like i did back in the day like some kinda boy racer which would have simulated track driving”.

The way he describes it gradually tumbling the power down sounds like the car is limiting the power intentionally. Thats could due to temperature which may or may not be the motor overheating or a sensor thinking it is. Its not the battery as hes quoting 60% or more.

No one else seems to report this issue….

And he seems to be saying its the same stretch of road. Which is really quite weird. Like its geofenced or something!

Posting the same “it did it again like it did the previous 10x” isnt really diagnosing anything.

At least saying “it doesnt do it if i take it easy prior” adds to something the garage techs might be able to use rather than “does the same thing everytime i do the same thing”

Other people have reported the same issue, in this thread and others.
If you’re not happy with repeated posts in a thread I raised, please feel free to go away.
God knows your suggestion to get an ICE instead adds nothing.

 

[bowfer]

It doesn't make sense that it's the way of driving. Yes, an EV can overheat and reduce the energy output, but unless you are on a track or you drive it like a lunatic, it shouldn't happen (at least not repeatedly). And people have driven it on a track (see video) without issues. So how can this be a problem of driving style?

It’s got sod all to do with driving style, you and I both know it.
I don’t know why people fixate on the ‘flooring it’ comments, like I shouldn’t do it at all or maybe I’m ‘flooring it too quickly’
Utter nonsense.
Doesn’t matter whether I literally mash the throttle in a split second or take my time to floor it.
Foot to the floor when any other car (with a decent level of charge) should give you 100% power, it’s not.
It’s that simple.

 

[Ian Key]

So when is it booked into your dealer so they can have a look at it?

 

[Cocijo]

EV’s can take a considerable amount of abuse before they start limiting power.
The HV pack and/or motor temperature needs to reach a level where power is limited, which even with persistent heavy acceleration doesn’t happen that often. A very hot day for example can impact things a little.
They are built with tolerances to be driven hard and withstand it.
I’ve had quite a few EV’s and the only times that I’ve seen this happen is when driving on a track - even then power did drop off but not that much.
Most issues that I have seen with power limitations trace back to software involved in controlling the battery management system.
But all this is just Speculation and needs to be traced through in a logical way.

 

[bowfer]

EV’s can take a considerable amount of abuse before they start limiting power.
The HV pack and/or motor temperature needs to reach a level where power is limited, which even with persistent heavy acceleration doesn’t happen that often. A very hot day for example can impact things a little.
They are built with tolerances to be driven hard and withstand it.
I’ve had quite a few EV’s and the only times that I’ve seen this happen is when driving on a track - even then power did drop off but not that much.
Most issues that I have seen with power limitations trace back to software involved in controlling the battery management system.
But all this is just Speculation and needs to be traced through in a logical way.

Agreed.
Both my leafs, an MG5 and a Zoe I’ve all driven much harder than the 4 all coped perfectly well.
If they ever throttled back, it must have been so minor as to be unnoticeable.
I’ve held back driving the 4 as hard as any of them because, quite frankly, I don’t trust it not to break used as hard (illogical maybe given the 5 was able to do it fine)

 

[bowfer]

And he seems to be saying its the same stretch of road. Which is really quite weird. Like its geofenced

It’s happening on the same stretch of road because that’s the road I take to work, I’ve never said it ‘only’ happened on that stretch of road.
Same stretch of road this morning with 100% battery charge and I get 100% power all the way to whatever speed I want.

The speed restriction ‘seems’ to be directly proportional to battery level.
The lower the battery, the less power I’m allowed and subsequently lower top speed.

 

[4ND]

The lower the battery, the less power I’m allowed and subsequently lower top speed.

What a load of faff. So that's like a petrol car being less powerful with less than a 1/4 of a tank in it?
Hope you get this nightmare sorted.

 

[Ayoull]

It’s happening on the same stretch of road because that’s the road I take to work, I’ve never said it ‘only’ happened on that stretch of road.
Same stretch of road this morning with 100% battery charge and I get 100% power all the way to whatever speed I want.

The speed restriction ‘seems’ to be directly proportional to battery level.
The lower the battery, the less power I’m allowed and subsequently lower top speed.

Have you ever let it get to near Empty? Reason I ask is it's like it's acting like an old NiCad or NiMH battery where if you didn't flatten them they "forgot" how big they were

 

[bowfer]

What a load of faff. So that's like a petrol car being less powerful with less than a 1/4 of a tank in it?
Hope you get this nightmare sorted.

It’s not even as ‘binary’ as that, if I got 100% power and top speed down to 1/4 tank (25% battery) I’d be delighted, as I hardly ever let the battery go that low.
It’s more progressive, it literally only gives me 100% power all the time at 100% battery, then power and top speed goes down with battery level.
Worst I’ve had is 51mph at around 40% battery.
I’ve not tested less than 40% battery as I’m concerned the top speed would be reduced to dangerous levels.

 

[siteguru]

I've had my SE SR down to 10% SoC and still managed 70 mph. (But then I've never tried flooring it to get there).

 

[Macadoodle]

I’ve not tested less than 40% battery as I’m concerned the top speed would be reduced to dangerous levels.

Have you considered parking it and leaving the heating on to drain the pack down to near zero, then balance charge to 100 % ?
Could well be grasping at straws of course.