My Miles/Kwh is not looking great!

I've found the first 7 or 8 miles uses 5% of the battery whatever the weather (and using aircon/heater as necessary). Driving like Miss Daisy makes no difference.
I'm no expert but put it down to the batteries warming after a cold start (but like a choke on a ice).
This could explain your bad reading for short journeys.
Only done 4000 miles so far but the overall reading is 3.7 miles/kw according to the readout.
 
I disregard the efficiency until Iā€™ve done around 20 miles. The resultant figure marries up well with actual range achieved.
Seconded. I regularly drive about 10 miles (each way) and get between 3.9 and 4.2 mpkwh. when I go a bit further (13 miles the other day) this goes up to about 4.3, and once (just once) on a 30 mile round trip last week it briefly touched 5 before settling back at 4.7 (Up and down a few hills). I think that the "Accumulated Total" data is more relevant. I have had my car since August and until the end of October the Accumulated Total figure was 4.6 mpkwh. The last 2 weeks or so have been noticeably colder and this has dropped to 4.5. This is in line with other data am collecting (on charging) so I am reasonably confident that this is accurate. My message for "defeatedbthe cat" is not to be concerned about data on short runs. Give yourself a treat and go for a longer drive, I haven't yet left the Isle of Wight with mine, but when I do I will be very interested to see what figures I get then.
 
I thought some other brands like Mercedes had this? Is it licensed or am I just day dreaming (entirely possible)?
Hi Biffo,your right and Steep is also correct, it is a Ford Patent but quite use it under licence VW Mercedes and Vauxhallā€™s to name a few I agreed it should be fitted to all vehicles
In another thread in this forum are some comments about the poor performance of the rear screen heater on the MGs so don't see us getting a front one in the MG brand
Les
 
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Hi Biffo,your right and Steep is also correct, it is a Ford Patent but quite use it under licence VW Mercedes and Vauxhallā€™s to name a few I agreed it should be fitted to all vehicles
In another thread in this forum are some comments about the poor performance of the rear screen heater on the MGs so don't see us getting a front one in the MG brand
Les
I always thought it was vital to have good screen heaters in a Ford. Helps to keep your hands warm when you are pushing them...... ;)
 
I do keep giving the heater quick blasts to clear the condensation. But probably 20 secs or so before it's off again.

I charged it to 100% and am trying to do this next week without any journeys I wouldn't normally take. Just to get a sense of what a full charge gets me.

Then I'll do an 80%-20% week
Hi defeatedbythecat. first off what car are you driving your profile says not MG !!?
So Iā€™ve an MG5 SR and hereā€™s something I know happens on this car not sure if the ZS is the same.
So just a little tip you may or may not know in trying to help you.

You say above you keep giving the heater a blast to clear condensation, well in the 5 each time you blast the heater for a short burst to do that, when you turn the heater off again it reverts to a recirculating mode, and you will notice on the heating control panel the recirculating switch / button as itā€™s now LIT, so it is now recirculating the damp air already inside the car, so the tip is, when you turn the heater off be sure to turn off the recirculating switch/button as well to get fresh air coming into the cabin, as this will help you to clear and keep down the missing up of the windows ( this in some makes was known as, through flow ventilation) well thatā€™s what they use to call it many years ago as I said it help it wonā€™t stop it altogether but it will reduce it thatā€™s what I have found in my car anyway and then you donā€™t need to blast the heater as often.
Running the A/c also does the same thing but that has about the same affect on the range as the heater does.
Les
 
Hi defeatedbythecat. first off what car are you driving your profile says not MG !!?
So Iā€™ve an MG5 SR and hereā€™s something I know happens on this car not sure if the ZS is the same.
So just a little tip you may or may not know in trying to help you.

You say above you keep giving the heater a blast to clear condensation, well in the 5 each time you blast the heater for a short burst to do that, when you turn the heater off again it reverts to a recirculating mode, and you will notice on the heating control panel the recirculating switch / button as itā€™s now LIT, so it is now recirculating the damp air already inside the car, so the tip is, when you turn the heater off be sure to turn off the recirculating switch/button as well to get fresh air coming into the cabin, as this will help you to clear and keep down the missing up of the windows ( this in some makes was known as, through flow ventilation) well thatā€™s what they use to call it many years ago as I said it help it wonā€™t stop it altogether but it will reduce it thatā€™s what I have found in my car anyway and then you donā€™t need to blast the heater as often.
Running the A/c also does the same thing but that has about the same affect on the range as the heater does.
Les
Damn I need to update my profile, now the proud owner of a MG5 LR!

So if nothing is lit, the car is still actually circulating air? So there isn't really an off?
 
Just noticed something. When I turn up the heating control in my MG5LR ( not the fan ) a very slight ticking noise comes from behind the dash somewhere. I wonder if that's normal. Maybe a heat pump/compressor or someother mechanical thing? When I turn the heater off ( anticlockwise ) the clicking stops. I do have good hearing for a relatively old duffer but is anyone else getting this?
 
Just noticed something. When I turn up the heating control in my MG5LR ( not the fan ) a very slight ticking noise comes from behind the dash somewhere. I wonder if that's normal. Maybe a heat pump/compressor or someother mechanical thing? When I turn the heater off ( anticlockwise ) the clicking stops. I do have good hearing for a relatively old duffer but is anyone else getting this?
Are you sure it's not your knees?
 
I was watching the current being used this morning when the heat and fan were on.
8A when all up full, dropping the most when reducing the heat, down to nearer 1A
 
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Just noticed something. When I turn up the heating control in my MG5LR ( not the fan ) a very slight ticking noise comes from behind the dash somewhere. I wonder if that's normal. Maybe a heat pump/compressor or someother mechanical thing? When I turn the heater off ( anticlockwise ) the clicking stops. I do have good hearing for a relatively old duffer but is anyone else getting this?
That's the problem with EVs, your hear all sorts that an oil burner noise drowns out :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
The miles per kWh figure is inaccurate (under reports) all of the time, but it seems to use a bayesian average which defaults to 3. It takes a long time to increase from this so appears especially low on short journeys.

However, there does appear to be an overhead to starting from cold. It's possible that the battery is being heated but cabin heating obviously uses more energy initially.
 
Damn I need to update my profile, now the proud owner of a MG5 LR!

So if nothing is lit, the car is still actually circulating air? So there isn't really an off?
Hi well lucky you 5LR, so as far as I know you can turn the heat and fan off by pressing the knob on the LHS of the control panel that will then light up the recirculating button switch that off and only fresh air is being drawn in,you can feel the effect of this more at speed and that helps with demising ,as I said before it not perfect but does cut down the amount of time you need the fan, A/c or heater working therefore helping with range, as well as the the buttons and switches, in the info screen at the top you will see a little picture of the car and when the recirculating button is LIT it as an arrow turning back on itself and when your pulling fresh air in the recirculating off light on switch off the arrow is going straight through this is how the SR works pretty sure the LR is no different hope this is of help
Les
 
Hi well lucky you 5LR, so as far as I know you can turn the heat and fan off by pressing the knob on the LHS of the control panel that will then light up the recirculating button switch that off and only fresh air is being drawn in,you can feel the effect of this more at speed and that helps with demising ,as I said before it not perfect but does cut down the amount of time you need the fan, A/c or heater working therefore helping with range, as well as the the buttons and switches, in the info screen at the top you will see a little picture of the car and when the recirculating button is LIT it as an arrow turning back on itself and when your pulling fresh air in the recirculating off light on switch off the arrow is going straight through this is how the SR works pretty sure the LR is no different hope this is of help
Les
That's a great help thank you Les.

I really do love this car. I've got a few minor niggles but in general it's a game changer for me.
 
Always going to be bad at beginning and end. This is a typical curve of these batteries. I'm sure the software for the figures displayed on the dash makes some allowances for this but I dont think its totally linear.

1637148735632.png

Which is why I always try and keep 10% in the tank to prevent sweaty hands as you approach your destination. You will notice the GoM dropping off pretty quickly towards the end voltage, and poor miles per kW at the beginning of a drive.
 
Always going to be bad at beginning and end. This is a typical curve of these batteries. I'm sure the software for the figures displayed on the dash makes some allowances for this but I dont think its totally linear.

View attachment 5660
Which is why I always try and keep 10% in the tank to prevent sweaty hands as you approach your destination. You will notice the GoM dropping off pretty quickly towards the end voltage, and poor miles per kW at the beginning of a drive.
I'm fairly certain that the battery percentage display takes the voltage curve into account. It's also only actually operating between something like 95% and 5%. It won't be 100% accurate, but it isn't wildly out.
 
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