Not how I thought today was going to pan out...

Some minor updates to bring back today.

After a grumpy email to AC customer services, and the aforementioned email to MG, they found the time to get it into the workshop last Thursday. I got the usual AC video report of how all the mechanicals were all good (And I'd hope so, given the service wasn't long ago) but that the fault log had a load of codes that were being sent to MG to have a look over.

Today, I had a phone call to say that MG had nothing, and would I be ok with the vehicle tech driving the car home tonight, and bring it back tomorrow... If it doesn't break down, they're pretty much out of ideas, and I can pick it up again. Not really inspiring confidence here.

Oh yeah, they also said they did some software updates... looks like they picked up on the service garage not doing the BMS update last year. 🤦‍♂️
 
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Today, I had a phone call to say that MG had nothing, and would I be ok with the vehicle tech driving the car home tonight, and bring it back tomorrow... If it doesn't break down, they're pretty much out of ideas, and I can pick it up again. Not really inspiring confidence here.
I was an auto-electrician from the mid 60's to mid 80's, when cars weren't so tech laden, but a customer with a Mazda MR had a fault with the pop up headlights randomly popping down!

It was only after he let me take it home, and I drove round with my meters in the car, that the fault happened and I was able to jump out and do enough fault tracing to be able to solve the problem :unsure: (y)
 
I was an auto-electrician from the mid 60's to mid 80's, when cars weren't so tech laden, but a customer with a Mazda MR had a fault with the pop up headlights randomly popping down!

It was only after he let me take it home, and I drove round with my meters in the car, that the fault happened and I was able to jump out and do enough fault tracing to be able to solve the problem :unsure: (y)
do modern day mechanics no how to use a meter
 
I bleave they are still taught not to go off just the code reading and check the ohms and resistance of sensor and wires but most just can't be bothered I always have done I think firing the parts cannon is far to common nowadays as its not there money
 
I bleave they are still taught not to go off just the code reading and check the ohms and resistance of sensor and wires but most just can't be bothered I always have done I think firing the parts cannon is far to common nowadays as its not there money

Yes, I think you have a point. Also, things aren't made to be repairable so much now.

We always offered to repair first rather than replace, and for things like Lucas alternators, we kept bearings, slip rings, brushes,diode packs and regulators in stock. Remove, repair and refit for less than the price of a replacement unit!
 
Well, I didnt think I'd need to resurrect this thread, but...

Parked at East Kilbride Station, plugged in to charge. Came back after my shift and..... yeah, it's done it again.

Looks like the 12V battery is gubbed 😡😡
20220613_225054.jpg
 
Well, I didnt think I'd need to resurrect this thread, but...

Parked at East Kilbride Station, plugged in to charge. Came back after my shift and..... yeah, it's done it again.

Looks like the 12V battery is gubbed 😡😡View attachment 8941
Any chance to get a jump/boost on the 12v battery from another motor? Just to see if that points more to a duff 12v battery...
 
I do, but it was just at the cut off point where it may have been too low to be effective. Sods law that I meant to put it on charge last weekend, but life got in the way 🤦‍♂️
Rat’s !.
That is bloody typical, when the jumper pack is at 100% you will never call on it to be used.
When it is running a bit low, your need the dam thing !!!!.
It is “Sod’s Law” alright.
I would have though that even though the jumper pack was low, it would still have enough juice to bring the car to life ?.
It does not take much energy in a jumper pack, to get the car to powered up.
Unless the 12 volt in the car is extremely low that is ?.
What is your thoughts on why the 12 volt becoming depleted then ?.
 
Rat’s !.
That is bloody typical, when the jumper pack is at 100% you will never call on it to be used.
When it is running a bit low, your need the dam thing !!!!.
It is “Sod’s Law” alright.
I would have though that even though the jumper pack was low, it would still have enough juice to bring the car to life ?.
It does not take much energy in a jumper pack, to get the car to powered up.
Unless the 12 volt in the car is extremely low that is ?.
What is your thoughts on why the 12 volt becoming depleted then ?.
Charging the jump pack (going for me coat 😉)
 
Rat’s !.
That is bloody typical, when the jumper pack is at 100% you will never call on it to be used.
When it is running a bit low, your need the dam thing !!!!.
It is “Sod’s Law” alright.
I would have though that even though the jumper pack was low, it would still have enough juice to bring the car to life ?.
It does not take much energy in a jumper pack, to get the car to powered up.
Unless the 12 volt in the car is extremely low that is ?.
What is your thoughts on why the 12 volt becoming depleted then ?.
Depends on what the car does when you turn it on.

If it fires up the front headlamps, cabin blower motor, and possibly even the AC pump, they can draw a pretty good amount of current :)

But honestly, there have been so many problems with the original battery packs i think, that it would never hurt to just get a new battery, charge it up, with a charger, and plonk it into the car.

I know it will cost a bit, but it would also help a lot with the burden of having the car break down all the time :)

I have not had any problems with the battery in my 2022 LR, but i can tell you for sure, that at the first sign of problems, the battery is the first thing i am going to replace, for something i know is "quality".
 
Depends on what the car does when you turn it on.

If it fires up the front headlamps, cabin blower motor, and possibly even the AC pump, they can draw a pretty good amount of current :)

But honestly, there have been so many problems with the original battery packs i think, that it would never hurt to just get a new battery, charge it up, with a charger, and plonk it into the car.

I know it will cost a bit, but it would also help a lot with the burden of having the car break down all the time :)

I have not had any problems with the battery in my 2022 LR, but i can tell you for sure, that at the first sign of problems, the battery is the first thing i am going to replace, for something i know is "quality".
Anyone have the size code handy?
 
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