Not how I thought today was going to pan out...

[AK OK]

Try a Bosch S4002 battery (12V, 52Ah, 470A), or a lithium ion.

Yebbut what's already in em? Can't be a Bosch shurely?

 

[Gadget Geek]

Yebbut what's already in em? Can't be a Bosch shurely?

I don't have my MG yet, but if it's anything like the Kona they put a cheap 12Ah battery in. For longevity, you want something with double or more the capacity to prevent bricking the car when a light is left on or something similar.

 

[hmadsen]

The battery inside my car has a number :

saic 30000774

I found this picture online, that shows the battery, it seems to be the same as in the first gen.

12 Volts
63 AmpHours
570 CCA

Made in China by Fengfan Co Ltd.

So on paper its more powerful than the suggested battery above...But the Chinese are usualle very generous with the praise of their stuff.

 

[Lovemyev]

Depends on what the car does when you turn it on.

If it fires up the front headlamps, cabin blower motor, and possibly even the AC pump, they can draw a pretty good amount of current

But honestly, there have been so many problems with the original battery packs i think, that it would never hurt to just get a new battery, charge it up, with a charger, and plonk it into the car.

I know it will cost a bit, but it would also help a lot with the burden of having the car break down all the time

I have not had any problems with the battery in my 2022 LR, but i can tell you for sure, that at the first sign of problems, the battery is the first thing i am going to replace, for something i know is "quality".

These items you mention will draw a massive amount of power when booting up the car, that will drain a jump pack pretty quickly for sure.
But all of these items can be turned instantly turned off to reduce the load from the 12 volt battery and therefore the jumper pack.
If the 12 volt battery is at a lower SOC when the car is required to boot up to the READY state, then even with a reasonable level of charge in a booster pack, it should be able to bring the 12 volt up to a SOC that will then allow the car to be booted completely into the READY state.
When using a booster pack on a ICE car, you need the booster pack to be at a high SOC because as soon as you demand a HUGE amount of power to turn over the engine with the starter motor, it will drain the booster pack fairly quickly.
You could probably boost a dozen EV's and use less power that one jump start of a oil burner.

 

[N2STY]

The up grade size is 096

I have started this thread because I have seen so many comments about how crappy the 12v battery is so I am looking into viable upgrades ranging from bigger lead acid batteries to Li-Fe or Li-Ion to save a bit of weight in the process. We can also use this thread to discuss options on how to keep the 12v battery in tip top condition whether that be a smart trickle charger if the car isn't going to be used for a while etc.

 

[ttddbx2012]

I see a lot of mention of 12v battery going flat, or not having enough charge to allow a rapid charge, I don’t have a ZS yet (ordered Jan) but it does concern me a little! What’s the reason for 12v battery drain typically on a standard non modified ZS? Is it simply lack of use or is it a fault? is it worth having a plug in solar panel or similar to trickle it when parked and counter this? (If they can be used on an electric car?!)

Something like this maybe? AA 12 V Car Solar Battery Trickle Charger 4.8 W AA1432 - for Vehicles and Caravans - Battery Connectors Included https://amzn.eu/iTzqM4r

 

[JCFlippen]

As mentioned earlier the supplied 12v is likely to be the cheapest contract battery they can get away with. Like another OP, at the first sign of 12v battery trouble I fit a decent quality Bosch or similar unit to any car I’ve had. It’s cheaper in the long run time wise than faffing around with going back to dealer and arguing with manufacturer.

 

[PVchris]

I like the idea of a LiFePO4, but would it charge correctly?

 

[N2STY]

I like the idea of a LiFePO4, but would it charge correctly?

You probably better off with a AGM or just a Premium battery the 096 batterys are the next size up from standard and fit the 2nd hole on the tray

 

[macd2401]

Well, it wasn't the battery .

Tested the 12V, and it was a bit low, but nothing horrendous. Popped some jump leads on it, checked again, it was getting a solid 13+V and...nothing. I even tried hooking it back up to the HV charger, and it refused to connect.

HV battery is still disconnected, and still showing the same VCS fault as before.

Big yellow taxi time again tomorrow, Arnold Clark can deal with it. A few of my mates have already said I should demand a replacement or refund...I'm starting to think they may be right

 

[N2STY]

Well, it wasn't the battery .

Tested the 12V, and it was a bit low, but nothing horrendous. Popped some jump leads on it, checked again, it was getting a solid 13+V and...nothing. I even tried hooking it back up to the HV charger, and it refused to connect.

HV battery is still disconnected, and still showing the same VCS fault as before.

Big yellow taxi time again tomorrow, Arnold Clark can deal with it. A few of my mates have already said I should demand a replacement or refund...I'm starting to think they may be right

Just out if interest have you tried pushing and holding the start button it could Force a reboot?

 

[Lovemyev]

Well, it wasn't the battery .

Tested the 12V, and it was a bit low, but nothing horrendous. Popped some jump leads on it, checked again, it was getting a solid 13+V and...nothing. I even tried hooking it back up to the HV charger, and it refused to connect.

HV battery is still disconnected, and still showing the same VCS fault as before.

Big yellow taxi time again tomorrow, Arnold Clark can deal with it. A few of my mates have already said I should demand a replacement or refund...I'm starting to think they may be right

Sorry to hear that the problem had not been resolved.
When I first looked at the photo of the dash panel that you had taken, I remember thinking that the 12 volt battery indicator ( although it did look a little bit on the low side ) it should have had enough power to boot the car at that indicated level ?.
Yeah - it’s a bit low, but I have seen my previous ZS EV display the same level on the gauge and still boot !.
Can’t help think that something has gone wrong, while taking the car was taking that charge the other day.
Yes it charge okay, according to the range you have showing on the GOM.
But it pretty much “Bricked” the car somehow ?.
Surely it must have a fault code stored for an error of that magnitude ????.
Unfortunately they can’t fix it until it’s broken .
Let’s see how they get on with it this time !.
Good luck and please report back.

 

[PVchris]

You probably better off with a AGM or just a Premium battery the 096 batterys are the next size up from standard and fit the 2nd hole on the tray

An AGM would be the obvious choice, but a LiFePO4 would easily cope with current demands, would be faster at charging, would last much longer at a higher voltage (which would eliminate issues caused by low 12V)..... I can only think of advantages - except of cause price (although not much more from our supplier) and possibly charging to full capacity (depending on float voltage from charger) - surely worth considering?
Sorry - not trying to hijack your thread - let us know how you get on

 

[N2STY]

A quick Google search I probably would not try it

 

[PVchris]

A quick Google search I probably would not try it View attachment 8964

Don't EVs have DC to DC convertors rather than alternators as have no engine to run an alternator off?

 

[N2STY]

Don't EVs have DC to DC convertors rather than alternators as have no engine to run an alternator off?

Yes but I would imagine that the bms set up for normal batterys that's why it is supplied with one?
And I don't fancy trying to get a new dc to DC under warranty if you fit something different

 

[macd2401]

Car now back at Arnold Clark.

AA turned up, tried to start it, got the code reader out. Apparently showed no fault codes, but he took the delete fault codes option anyway and...the bloody thing started up properly

Waiting time for even looking at it is around a month

 

[N2STY]

So my holding down start button idea may just work some sort of reboot

When this happened to me last week the AA held the Start button for about 15 seconds the car shut down - he waited a short while and the car rebooted with everything working

 

[AK OK]

So my holding down start button idea may just work some sort of reboot

Where's that quote come from then?

 

[AK OK]

Where's that quote come from then?

Ah found it on the other thread