JeffNaylor

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Hello All. newbie here

Serously considering buying an MG4 Long Range second-hand and I've looked at a few threads, but would like some advice about a few issues please

A lot of the YouTube and other reviews are very negative about the Lane detection feature being dangerous and you needing to turn it off manually, but I've also seen a comment that after a software update the feature became far less agressive. Is that the recieved wisdom now?

I saw a video about reduction gearbox oil leaks, but I'm guessing that a three year old car would have this issue fixed. Everything else seemed to be software related..

I'll probabl;y try to buy through an MG dealer. but if I can't find the car I want, would I be able to "adopt" one and get the software checked, even at a cost?

Any other things to look out for?

TIA

Jeff
 
LKA/LDP/ELK (pick your TLA of choice :)) is generally fine as long as the update has been done .. SC077 as I recall.

Mine had the oil leak .. it was fixed within a few months. Any car 23 plate or newer should be fine as the issue was resolved at the factory; most 72 plate cars will have had the fix anyway.

When buying 2nd hand, make sure it has a full (and up to date) service history with MG, to ensure that the warranty is intact.
 
Given the issues I have had for 6 months with my ZS EV, I have been driving an MG4 loan car for the last 9 weeks whilst the ZS sits at an MG dealer. EMG in Ipswich.

I won't be buying another MG & suggest you think very carefully as the MG UK CS support is below poor. My fault started in an 11 month old car & no one knows how to fix it. The wrong spares have been supplied etc . The dealer blames MG UK. MG UK blames the dealer.

The lane control on the 4 I find annoying as is the speed limit bong. You can turn them off but the next time you start the car they are back.

The car is a 74 plate dealer courtesy car.
 
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@JeffNaylor, siteguru has given you the basics on mechanical issue and service campaigns.
Warranty can be an issue, it has to be serviced, and electronically documented on line by MG on a dealer portal. It seems that only MG can access these records and verify these services have been carried out, otherwise any claims may not be accepted. So paperwork of proof of services is essential from a dealer.

SE and Trophy trims were available in LR and eventually an ER version for the Trophy as well.
Go through the specs, and decide what you'll go for. Upgrading from SE to Trophy specs isn't a thing that can be done.
The Trophy had many extra items over the SE, like built in Sat Nav, birds eye camera system, enhanced radar/ ultrasound systems for parking and rear collision etc, heated front seats, electrically adjustable drivers seat, on line services, and an enhanced 6 speaker audio system.
 
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To the forum, Jeff. You'll get all sorts of different opinions on this. Those with bad experiences will say, don't get one. Those with good experiences will obviously say get one. I'm in the get one camp.
It's up to you. Good luck. 🙂👍
 
When buying 2nd hand, make sure it has a full (and up to date) service history with MG, to ensure that the warranty is intact.
this ^^^. But also check it out and get it in writing. Too many stories on here of MG sales staff saying it has a full warranty then new owner finding out that was a lie. I had similar experience from same dealership that @JohnV6 is having warranty issues with, so didn't go ahead with purchase.
 
EVs are great things and my ZS was a great car, but just be aware MG support for problems is weak, slow and disinterested I suspect and know other brands are more customer focused.
 
Thank you all for the advice - very useful indeed, particularly about the warranty. Buying second hand from a dealer might be the safe option there. You've told me what I'd hoped about the LKA/LDP/ELK.

Sounds like a Trophy Long Range 72/23 plate with about 25K miles might be good value at £13>14,000.

I'll do more browsing of the Forum. I've always found better knowledge on this type of thing over facebook and so on in the past.

Cheers!
 
Buying second hand from a dealer might be the safe option there.
Even when buying from a main dealer get the warranty cover in writing and also get them to show you the entries on the MG database confirming cover. Some folk have been caught out with a franchised dealer using non MG branded service areas of their business which then allows MG to question the warranty status of an individual vehicle
 
Thank you all for the advice - very useful indeed, particularly about the warranty. Buying second hand from a dealer might be the safe option there. You've told me what I'd hoped about the LKA/LDP/ELK.

Sounds like a Trophy Long Range 72/23 plate with about 25K miles might be good value at £13>14,000.

I'll do more browsing of the Forum. I've always found better knowledge on this type of thing over facebook and so on in the past.

Cheers!
I bought a pre-loved 73 plate Trophy LR a year ago. I didn't buy from a dealer but from a garage that specialises in selling ex-Motability cars. They will (almost) all have a service history, that's part of the Motability deal. And, obviously, orange is the colour to go for :-)
 
I bought a pre-loved 73 plate Trophy LR a year ago. I didn't buy from a dealer but from a garage that specialises in selling ex-Motability cars. They will (almost) all have a service history, that's part of the Motability deal. And, obviously, orange is the colour to go for :-)
The problem with mobility cars which has been called out on other forums is that some EV's are just left on charge all of the time knackering the batteries.

This could indeed happen to any car, bought, financed, leased, stolen lol. However, as many people with mobility might have mobility issues, then it does seem logical they might leave their cars plugged in all the time. Leaving an ICE car for a week at a time isn't going to matter, leaving an EV on charge all the time will certainly ruin it.
 
The problem with mobility cars which has been called out on other forums is that some EV's are just left on charge all of the time knackering the batteries.

This could indeed happen to any car, bought, financed, leased, stolen lol. However, as many people with mobility might have mobility issues, then it does seem logical they might leave their cars plugged in all the time. Leaving an ICE car for a week at a time isn't going to matter, leaving an EV on charge all the time will certainly ruin it.
But typically an EV which once it stops charging won't start charging again without input, even if left plugged. Where as an ICE car left for a period or time can suffer, rust on internal components when the oil drains back to the sump.
 
But typically an EV which once it stops charging won't start charging again without input, even if left plugged. Where as an ICE car left for a period or time can suffer, rust on internal components when the oil drains back to the sump.
No ICE engine is going to rust after a week or so not moving. The brakes might, but that's same on either car propulsion. Contrast that with an EV left at 100% for a week and it's actively damaging the cells. Repeat this week in week out.
 

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