Rear interior light

N2STY said:
Don't worry sorted it so switch pulls off from the backView attachment 12653
The wires for light are here
Black is earth white and black is positive for doors open only and if you flash you hi beam when car is off part of the follow me home function
Edit they also come one when you switch car off
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@N2STY thats great help for us thanks for the info. May I ask whats the best way to remove the lights switch module? Mine seems very stiff and im afraid of breaking anything. Do you just pull it out from the back as you suggested? thanks
 
Liandada said:
@N2STY thats great help for us thanks for the info. May I ask whats the best way to remove the lights switch module? Mine seems very stiff and im afraid of breaking anything. Do you just pull it out from the back as you suggested? thanks
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OK It very tight to pull out I got in from the side to get good grip on the back very tight it's just 2 very strong proper clips at the back it's is just brute force in downward from the back goes back a lots easyer
 
The clips your fighting
IMG_20221111_152459_edit_799966122510746.jpg
 
N2STY said:
The clips your fightingView attachment 12792
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Very helpful. Most certainly the option I will be adopting, sorry for the plethora of questions, but you have a working solution, can you explain the wiring mapping, did you take a feed from the map light to one new light then loop to the second, or take a sperate feed from map light to each new light (excluding boot lights) and what is pink connector thing? Thanks for your patience.
 
I used the door open wire that feeds the map light when door is open or unlocked or car switched off with time delay
 
It’s in and working - waiting for the sun to go down.
I used the double wire taps which worked great.
One thing that made things easier was to use credit cards at the forward sides to release the side clips of the console unit.

Thanks @N2STY for the pointers

I had 1m 20 left out of 5m. Will divide into 30cm strips to put under seats into a 5A switched fuse bridge.

FF772A79-21B6-486C-AAC0-8ABDE4D7008D.jpeg
 
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scoobeesnac said:
It’s in and working - waiting for the sun to go down.
I used the double wire taps which worked great.
One thing that made things easier was to use credit cards at the forward sides to release the side clips of the console unit.

Thanks @N2STY for the pointers
View attachment 12909
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Am I correct in thinking that the white wire, with the black tracer, is the feed to the new added lamps ?.
And the solid black wire is the earth cable supply to the new lamps then ?.
The double crimp block, it is divided down the centre, in order to crimp each individual cable separately.
 
Lovemyev said:
Am I correct in thinking that the white wire, with the black tracer, is the feed to the new added lamps ?.
And the solid black wire is the earth cable supply to the new lamps then ?.
The double crimp block, it is divided down the centre, in order to crimp each individual cable separately.
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White/black is switched and black is ground.
Yes the crimp block has isolated traces to each wire. The crimp block is good for those small wires and self-pierced the cables the same as the LED connectors.
 
I like them t clamps I take it they worked OK to cut insulation I had a bit of trouble with the old type as wire is fine
 
I went with the LED strips that
Mack1410 said:
Which option did you go for?
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N2STY recommended, and some cheap splice connectors. Looks really good and the adhesive on the strip is very good indeed. The centre roof unit popped off no problem too and the headlining Velcro albeit stiff was manageable and popped right back into place
 
sgt4hed said:
I went with the LED strips that

N2STY recommended, and some cheap splice connectors. Looks really good and the adhesive on the strip is very good indeed. The centre roof unit popped off no problem too and the headlining Velcro albeit stiff was manageable and popped right back into place
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Any chance of any photo's please @sgt4hed (y).
 
Lovemyev said:
Any chance of any photo's please @sgt4hed (y).
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It looks exactly the same as what N2STY posted, even did the boot light in exactly the same way 👍

that strip of light in the boot makes SOOOOOOOO much difference, I can actually see what I am doing in the boot at night now. If anyone is interested in the how for the boot light I simply put some spade connectors on the LED strip, fed the wire into the cavity where the boot light is through the trim that surrounds the back seat latch bar thing and then plugged the spades straight into the plug that would connect onto the bulb holder. I left the bulb holder but removed the bulb so the little light appears to be there but no longer illuminates, I thought there was no point in having it light up as it now adds zero benefit and just draws additional electrons :)
 
Severnless said:
We got a bit fed up with struggling getting my 2 girls in their infernal car seats with the most fiddly seat belt buckles going in the dark, SO...............
This is the result of a bit of fiddling!!
View attachment 1339
View attachment 1340View attachment 1341View attachment 1342
Now we can see in the back seats!
Cost £7.99 for a roll of water proof led strip, connected it to the passenger dome light, comes on when the dome light comes on and when the passenger map light is switched on, only took an hour.
The sun shade glows nicely and it looks Oem!
Cheers
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That's great! Any idea of a garage or a place where they could get it done? I live near Brighton... also asked the local dealer where I purchased the car, but they don't know anything...
 
scoobeesnac said:
It’s in and working - waiting for the sun to go down.
I used the double wire taps which worked great.
One thing that made things easier was to use credit cards at the forward sides to release the side clips of the console unit.

Thanks @N2STY for the pointers

I had 1m 20 left out of 5m. Will divide into 30cm strips to put under seats into a 5A switched fuse bridge.

View attachment 12909
Click to expand...
Been looking to do this for ages and finally taken the plunge. Can I ask a few questions for those of you who paid more attention in physics lessons than I did please?

Should I be disconnecting the 12v battery before starting this work?

Presumably there's two sets of wire that I could clamp on to - one for the drivers side map light and one for the passenger side map light. Do I want the drivers side ones?

When I use the wire taps, how do I know which wires are positive and negative please (or does it not matter with LEDs?)

Can I pop out the central map light unit by going in under the roof lining from the edge of the sunroof or do I need to lever it out from the cab?

Thanks
 
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