Rusting on 70 plate MG ZS EV wheel metal inners

[Alb]

I'm talking about the disc surface.
I can understand the confusion because this discussion has gone off on a bit of a tangent!
The OP was talking about the hub and caliper as far as I can understand.

 

[Lovemyev]

I'm talking about the disc surface.
I can understand the confusion because this discussion has gone off on a bit of a tangent!
The OP was talking about the hub and caliper as far as I can understand.

I agree.
Suffice to say that the rust shown by the OP is a common phenomenon on most cars and that EV’s are more subject to this problem, due to the reduction in use of the foot brake, due to the addition of having Regen braking available.
It’s a unfortunate by product, I guess ?.
So it is, what it is.
All of our driving styles are completely different of course.
I am a Regen level 3 person myself, I guess you could always reduce your level of Regen and therefore give the friction brakes a bit more work to do, now and again ?.
This would help keep the brake surface of the brake discs a little bit cleaner, but to be honest I have become very use to using the higher level of Regen and therefore do not want to make this sacrifice.
I am not worried or concerned about the slight rust on the brake disc’s / rotors ( USA term ) on my car.
As said before, this rust is unavoidable to a large extent.

 

[macd2401]

My run of bad luck has continued. I clipped a sharp edge last night and wrecked one of my tyres.

On the upside, since the wheel was off, had a good root around in the wheel arch, and I have to say that apart from a little bit of light brown on some of the nuts and bolts, the entire brake and suspension assembly looks to be in pretty good order.

 

[BarryH]

Every car‘s brake disc rusts when it isn’t used for a period of time. Give it some hard braking and it will disappear.

I'm still a little unclear from what has been commented on (by all above) which part is giving concern as it all looks perfectly normal. It is a characteristic for example of the type of steel used in the manufacture of the actual disk plater (ie the surface on which the brake friction pads press) to show spots of rust within minutes after getting splashed with water during washing, or rain or even dew when parked overnight. The composition of these disk players was changed several years ago when Asbestos was removed from brake friction pads because the pads without Asbestos were harder and the steel of the disk was designed to be softer to compensate. Back in the day the old-style disks would last several changes of pads without showing appreciable signs of wear. But today's Disk and Pad combinations wear together and it isn't that unusual for disk players to have worn sufficiently by the 2nd or 3rd set of pads to need changing particularly front disks.

However, EV's if driven with higher amounts of Regen (KERS) in other words so-called "One peddle driving" the friction brakes will hardly ever be used until the car is just about to come to rest and so the surface rust (or more properly oxidization) doesn't get burnished off in normal driving as would occur driving an ICE car. EV owners (very common I understand with Teslas) can often find problems at services and MOTs where the disks are too corroded and require changing long before brake friction pads! The other thing Tesla's are known for at service is sticky brake callipers both pads sticking in the calliper and the floating of the calliper preventing it from centralising and applying equal pressure to both pads and both sides of the disk causing unequal and excessive brake wear and insufficient braking in an emergency. A little copper grease applied at the strategic places can help prevent these calliper issues.

Not a bad idea to use them-brakes or lose them. Personally I slowly reverse off my drive in the morning with a very light brake pressure to buff the surface a little and every so often drive on KERS 1 so I have to use the friction brakes.