Self charging MGHS

If on the right side of the steering wheel press the down button to get the Currant and total figure. This can say up to a 120 mpg but this is a combination of both ICE and EV. If left to car to decide what mode to use. I found need to clear both each week to get a true reading. At this time of year I think it’s around 93mpg and 34 kWh per 100 klm as I go to and from work on EV, I run the ICE about a mile or two a day so this is why it reads 93mpg.
 
If on the right side of the steering wheel press the down button to get the Currant and total figure. This can say up to a 120 mpg but this is a combination of both ICE and EV. If left to car to decide what mode to use. I found need to clear both each week to get a true reading. At this time of year I think it’s around 93mpg and 34 kWh per 100 klm as I go to and from work on EV, I run the ICE about a mile or two a day so this is why it reads 93mpg.
Thank you . Very helpful. I see you have had yours for two years. How is the range doing. Mine only charges about 12.2 kw from zero miles. I have 7kw wall box but do you think I should use granny charger for equalisation or will my 7kw do same.
 
The range is still the same as the day I got the car, I charge every night back to 100% what ever is left in the battery which is around 70%, only when I am away it gets down to 0%. you are fine using wall box the car will do the equalisation on your wall box no need to use the granny charger. It’s more for people who do a lot of fast charging which we can not do we are only slow charging.
 
Took this today.
 

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assuming you do a large amount of local journeys ie up to to 32 miles and charge the battery each night and with the odd long journey thrown in you can expect an overall mpg in excess 100mpg. when driving locally ensure that you press the EV button , when on a long journey revert to automatic on the EV button and save the remaining battery for later in the journey. the m ore you manage the ICE/EV modes the better your return will be - Guaranteed !
 
assuming you do a large amount of local journeys ie up to to 32 miles and charge the battery each night and with the odd long journey thrown in you can expect an overall mpg in excess 100mpg. when driving locally ensure that you press the EV button , when on a long journey revert to automatic on the EV button and save the remaining battery for later in the journey. the m ore you manage the ICE/EV modes the better your return will be - Guaranteed !
Practical and sensible advice
 
I probably used more of the battery as it was including handover, quite a bit of time setting everything up, new car and all that, followed by 70mph drive down motorways including several stops for toilet/ adjustment to things etc. overnight stop and home next day with no ev only driving and management on default. I achieved just under 45 . So that’s ok then? How do you get 90 on a 21 mile trip. Do you just drive it ev only for most of it? A similar trip in full auto has me showing about 47. This is why I ask. So am I I right in thinking most people use ev only to get those really high figures. I was under the mistaken belief that letting the car do it in auto was going to produce best results

Sorry about my late response, yes I have a round trip of 42 miles which leaves me around 10 miles short of EV all the way so I do the first 10 miles the slowest on battery then the rest on auto. Coming home I usually do the first 4 miles on auto (fastest) then the rest on battery works out on average around 160mpg. If I just do this commute for a couple of weeks I am averaging around 75-80mpg overall, which I am more than happy with. Sadly I have to do a couple of long trips of 300 miles which brings the overall average down to around 55. This is still 10 mpg better than my last diesel car. Overall very pleased.
 
I agree with the added costs of an ICE but with a EV, there is the battery replacement cost after about 8 years. The larger the battery, the more expensive.
There is little evidence of battery replacement after 8 years, in fact the Samsung batteries in my i3 quote 6000 cycles (charge / discharge) to 80% level which is the point the batteries are deemed to be end of life. 6000 cycles is 16.4 years assuming the battery is fully depleted every day which it wont be. Furthermore a cycle of the battery gives me an average of 120 miles so the 6000 cycles equates to 720,000 miles. I seriously doubt and ICE car would not need at least a couple of engines and gearboxes in that time.

I am betting on the fact that in about 8 years, when I do need to replace my battery, that the price of batteries will have dropped to cheaper level.
Thats is possible but battery development means that the chemistry used is changed in a short space of time resulting in replacement cells not being available. Its not an issue however, youre very unlikely to need to replace the battery. There are a couple of exceptions, Nissan Leaf is one that has very poor thermal management of the battery and theyre killed by rapid charging.
 
Also recommend getting this holder off ebay for it.
Hi mate,

I notice you leave the charger outside.. Is it actually waterproof? I put mine out in one of those boxes when I am charing in case it rains but If I dont need to??????

Cheers

Andy
 
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