Wasting kW whilst stationary

AndEV

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Joined
Feb 23, 2022
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Location
Harrogate, UK
Driving
MG ZS EV
When driving around in stop/start traffic and at junctions etc, I have noticed that the car (mark 2 LR) is drawing power even when stationary. It seems that only lightly pressing the brake pedal (enough to keep the car from moving) is the issue - a more firm press drops the power reading to zero. Having realised this and made a concerted effort to press harder on the brake pedal, my consumption on the short school run (which obviously doesn’t return the best consumption anyway, with the battery hardly having time to thaw out) has increased significantly. Anybody else noticed the same, or is it something that needs a bit of re-calibration next time I’m at the dealership?
 
When driving around in stop/start traffic and at junctions etc, I have noticed that the car (mark 2 LR) is drawing power even when stationary. It seems that only lightly pressing the brake pedal (enough to keep the car from moving) is the issue - a more firm press drops the power reading to zero. Having realised this and made a concerted effort to press harder on the brake pedal, my consumption on the short school run (which obviously doesn’t return the best consumption anyway, with the battery hardly having time to thaw out) has increased significantly. Anybody else noticed the same, or is it something that needs a bit of re-calibration next time I’m at the dealership?
Your consumption has increased ? Or decreased?
 
I'm not sure if the ZS has anything similar to my Renault Zoe, but in that if I apply the handbrake, it shuts off power to the motor. For example, if "creeping" in traffic and I see a bit of a stop coming, I apply the handbrake and sit until the traffic moves, then release the handbrake, and the car will move off after a very slight pause. I wonder if the auto park on the ZS might work in a similar fashion?
 
I'm not sure if the ZS has anything similar to my Renault Zoe, but in that if I apply the handbrake, it shuts off power to the motor. For example, if "creeping" in traffic and I see a bit of a stop coming, I apply the handbrake and sit until the traffic moves, then release the handbrake, and the car will move off after a very slight pause. I wonder if the auto park on the ZS might work in a similar fashion?
Do you mean "auto hold"?
 
I'm not sure if the ZS has anything similar to my Renault Zoe, but in that if I apply the handbrake, it shuts off power to the motor. For example, if "creeping" in traffic and I see a bit of a stop coming, I apply the handbrake and sit until the traffic moves, then release the handbrake, and the car will move off after a very slight pause. I wonder if the auto park on the ZS might work in a similar fashion?
Similar - one of my work-arounds is to use the P button on the drive selector much more than I used to.
 
When driving around in stop/start traffic and at junctions etc, I have noticed that the car (mark 2 LR) is drawing power even when stationary. It seems that only lightly pressing the brake pedal (enough to keep the car from moving) is the issue - a more firm press drops the power reading to zero. Having realised this and made a concerted effort to press harder on the brake pedal, my consumption on the short school run (which obviously doesn’t return the best consumption anyway, with the battery hardly having time to thaw out) has increased significantly. Anybody else noticed the same, or is it something that needs a bit of re-calibration next time I’m at the dealership?
Why are you pressing the brake pedal at all?

The default behaviour of the car is to hold it in place automatically...
 
Why are you pressing the brake pedal at all?

The default behaviour of the car is to hold it in place automatically...
I don’t have auto-hold switched on as I was previously driving a Volvo ICE where that feature caused a bit of a lag when setting off again - I just prefer it that way now.
 
When driving around in stop/start traffic and at junctions etc, I have noticed that the car (mark 2 LR) is drawing power even when stationary. It seems that only lightly pressing the brake pedal (enough to keep the car from moving) is the issue - a more firm press drops the power reading to zero. Having realised this and made a concerted effort to press harder on the brake pedal, my consumption on the short school run (which obviously doesn’t return the best consumption anyway, with the battery hardly having time to thaw out) has increased significantly. Anybody else noticed the same, or is it something that needs a bit of re-calibration next time I’m at the dealership?
What is a significant increase and how are you measuring it? My initial view is either way you operate this function will have a very minimal impact on such a short trip.The real check is how it affects your miles/KwHr.
 
What is a significant increase and how are you measuring it? My initial view is either way you operate this function will have a very minimal impact on such a short trip.The real check is how it affects your miles/KwHr.
I’ve only had the car a month, but was consistently achieving 2.2 miles/kWh on the 5 mile school run. Since consciously modifying my behaviour when stopped, it’s coming out about 2.8, and that’s since the temps have gone sub-zero. To be honest, I’m more concerned that it could potentially cause an issue with the motor further down the line, if it’s straining to move the car whilst I’m stopped.
 
I’ve only had the car a month, but was consistently achieving 2.2 miles/kWh on the 5 mile school run. Since consciously modifying my behaviour when stopped, it’s coming out about 2.8, and that’s since the temps have gone sub-zero. To be honest, I’m more concerned that it could potentially cause an issue with the motor further down the line, if it’s straining to move the car whilst I’m stopped.
That’s good. Thanks for sharing. Don’t worry about the motor, it’s designed to be used in that way. Just enjoy your car.
 
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