Yes, that is what made me think they may be working outside their specification. Eg, angle of operation too acute, too much load, combination of both, or longitudinal pressure too great due to incorrect installation. The last might explain common but not universal failure?
When you first study the tight angle of attack of that upper steering coupling UJ then combined, with second steep angle of attack where the lower UJ attaches to the steering rack, then yes I can totally understand your view point.
When they are assembled in the factory, you would expect them to be all done in the same production line fashion.
Which lead me to believe that the UJ joint(s) has a pre assembly issue.
Manufactures rarely have a single supply chain, so only MG can identify if an issue could be lying here.
I am willing to bet the fault lies with either the assembly of the UJ's into the steering coupling or even some metal fatigue present in the UJ's themselves.
On some of the pictures have seen, the bearing cup(s) have shattered and lost the needle roller bearings.
The play in the yoke then becomes SO massive, the inner cross section of the joint, becomes detached from the yoke and then falls away.
At this point, there is no connection between the steering wheel / steering rack and therefore the road wheels.
Before it reaches this drastic point of failure, there will be warnings signs that something is wrong.
i.e :- An increasing amount of a side to side play at the steering wheel, with little reaction at the road wheels.
Also a greater feeling of vagueness at the steering wheel, when driving will be very evident.
You could notice you are correcting the steering wheel a lot more, to keep the car on the straight and narrow, when travelling on a straight / smooth & level road.
A simple very basic check you can carry out.
Power up the car and put down the drivers window, leave the car.
Now put your left hand through the open window, now pitch the steering wheel gently with two of your fingers and your thumb.
Rock the steering wheel very very SLIGHTLY in a side to side motion, in a rocking action.
While doing this, look down at the road wheels, are they responding in the very same fashion.
Reacting to this very slight movement of the steering wheel ?.
If the steering wheel is rocking, by side to side movement, but your road wheel are not, then you have likely highlighted play between the steering wheel and the road wheels.
This needs to be urgently checked by the dealer.
If you think you have detected any of these symptoms, then get it checked by a qualified person without delay !.
My previous ZS EV Gen1 had the "Ticking / Clicking" noise after about a 1,000 miles and became louder, as time marched on.
I am a long time retired tech, so I do have an good insight at what point it changes from being a simple "tick" at the wheel, to when something is seriously wrong with the car and close to failing.
Complete failure of your brakes or your steering system, is about as serious as it gets really.
Take no chances, if you are in doubt what so ever, please report it.