Heating not working

[jamakr4]

Are you saying you do have the ELK button in the pull down menu?

No, actually not. For ACC I have the one where they switched from +5 kmh steps to +1kmh. It definitely now does not slow down anymore before turns as it used to before. Is this the most recent one? I hate how in-transparent this hole update thing is.

 

[NLMGSAN]

Yes, for ACC that is the latest.
But in general, if on ACC and you overtake the vehicle in front of you within the set minimal distance, once in the left lane the car still drops speed. This is worse with OPD compared to other regen options. You can complain about that to force them to go into the software updates.

If you do a pull down on the right top side of the infotainment screen, a number of settings are offered. In the latest updates it brought the ELK button (yes, it isn't named LKA). If you use LKA (any mode), you can tick the icon to disable any LKA mode (Alarm, LDW or ELK). Since the manual urges you disable it in certain circumstances, tell them you need that button for safety reasons.

Next, make a complaint about losing BT connection, and poor AA/AC functionality.

This way, I expect they will at least install R67 and others. That also includes the improved temperature calibration (it was 5 degrees off).
And hopefully, that fixes it.

Btw, have you tried setting the temperature to 30 degrees to test A/C heating?

 

[jamakr4]

Yes, for ACC that is the latest.
But in general, if on ACC and you overtake the vehicle in front of you within the set minimal distance, once in the left lane the car still drops speed. This is worse with OPD compared to other regen options. You can complain about that to force them to go into the software updates.

If you do a pull down on the right top side of the infotainment screen, a number of settings are offered. In the latest updates it brought the ELK button (yes, it isn't named LKA). If you use LKA (any mode), you can tick the icon to disable any LKA mode (Alarm, LDW or ELK). Since the manual urges you disable it in certain circumstances, tell them you need that button for safety reasons.

Next, make a complaint about losing BT connection, and poor AA/AC functionality.

This way, I expect they will at least install R67 and others. That also includes the improved temperature calibration (it was 5 degrees off).
And hopefully, that fixes it.

Btw, have you tried setting the temperature to 30 degrees to test A/C heating?

Yes, I tried pretty much everything but the heat pump isn’t even turning on (I tried setting it to the highest and lowest setting etc.. but nothing happens - you can hear that there is no noise coming from the front of the car). There were some people with older cars that had issues where the AC would go dead occasionally- but mine is completely dead since 4 weeks / 1000kms+ of driving (in their case it often was some sensor that went bad). So as I said I think it’s a software issue or something very simple (like a leak within the AC gas circuit) - I will ask the dealer after Christmas for the full shop protocol to really see if they only did what they told me. In SIPs (the official software for MG service) you can do an actuator test to see if the pump is even working, would be interesting to know if that can turn on the pump. SIPs can also do a full diagnosis to check communication between the different ecus.