Heating not working

[jamakr4]

Are you saying you do have the ELK button in the pull down menu?

No, actually not. For ACC I have the one where they switched from +5 kmh steps to +1kmh. It definitely now does not slow down anymore before turns as it used to before. Is this the most recent one? I hate how in-transparent this hole update thing is.

 

[NLMGSAN]

Yes, for ACC that is the latest.
But in general, if on ACC and you overtake the vehicle in front of you within the set minimal distance, once in the left lane the car still drops speed. This is worse with OPD compared to other regen options. You can complain about that to force them to go into the software updates.

If you do a pull down on the right top side of the infotainment screen, a number of settings are offered. In the latest updates it brought the ELK button (yes, it isn't named LKA). If you use LKA (any mode), you can tick the icon to disable any LKA mode (Alarm, LDW or ELK). Since the manual urges you disable it in certain circumstances, tell them you need that button for safety reasons.

Next, make a complaint about losing BT connection, and poor AA/AC functionality.

This way, I expect they will at least install R67 and others. That also includes the improved temperature calibration (it was 5 degrees off).
And hopefully, that fixes it.

Btw, have you tried setting the temperature to 30 degrees to test A/C heating?

 

[jamakr4]

Yes, for ACC that is the latest.
But in general, if on ACC and you overtake the vehicle in front of you within the set minimal distance, once in the left lane the car still drops speed. This is worse with OPD compared to other regen options. You can complain about that to force them to go into the software updates.

If you do a pull down on the right top side of the infotainment screen, a number of settings are offered. In the latest updates it brought the ELK button (yes, it isn't named LKA). If you use LKA (any mode), you can tick the icon to disable any LKA mode (Alarm, LDW or ELK). Since the manual urges you disable it in certain circumstances, tell them you need that button for safety reasons.

Next, make a complaint about losing BT connection, and poor AA/AC functionality.

This way, I expect they will at least install R67 and others. That also includes the improved temperature calibration (it was 5 degrees off).
And hopefully, that fixes it.

Btw, have you tried setting the temperature to 30 degrees to test A/C heating?

Yes, I tried pretty much everything but the heat pump isn’t even turning on (I tried setting it to the highest and lowest setting etc.. but nothing happens - you can hear that there is no noise coming from the front of the car). There were some people with older cars that had issues where the AC would go dead occasionally- but mine is completely dead since 4 weeks / 1000kms+ of driving (in their case it often was some sensor that went bad). So as I said I think it’s a software issue or something very simple (like a leak within the AC gas circuit) - I will ask the dealer after Christmas for the full shop protocol to really see if they only did what they told me. In SIPs (the official software for MG service) you can do an actuator test to see if the pump is even working, would be interesting to know if that can turn on the pump. SIPs can also do a full diagnosis to check communication between the different ecus.

 

[jamakr4]

Ok, have some Updates:
VDS displays 0 kpa pressure on the ac line and I also have error Codes from the HVAC. So either the system is drained and the compressor isn't answering because it says stop! Or there is indeed a broken wire.

I will check the pressure using a screw driver to press on the vent and see if there is something on the line.

 

[jamakr4]

I will check the pressure using a screw driver to press on the vent and see if there is something on the line.

There is pressure but very minimal. Normal values should be upwards of 2bar but when pressing it doesn't even sound close to something that has 2 bar (like a tire).

 

[T1 Terry]

There is pressure but very minimal. Normal values should be upwards of 2bar but when pressing it doesn't even sound close to something that has 2 bar (like a tire).

The system pressure will balance out between the low side and high side if the compressor is not running. A low pressure sensed in the system will lock out the compressor from turning on ...... this might be the cause of the frequent successfully kill process code .... but surely they would have connected the HVAC system to pressure gauges to test the pressures during any one of the diagnostics seasons ....
The system should be between 140psi and 155psi, around 10 bar.

I only know about this stuff because I bought a set up to regas my HVAC in my motorhome after having to get it evacuated to remove the front confessor so I could remove the radiator, so I could get to the water pump .... complete idiots have been building motor vehicles for a long time, they just get more high tech as the yrs pass, and the idiots just improve the idiot skill level .... you can never make a thing idiot proof, they will always make a better idiot ....

T1 Terry

 

[jamakr4]

The system pressure will balance out between the low side and high side if the compressor is not running. A low pressure sensed in the system will lock out the compressor from turning on ...... this might be the cause of the frequent successfully kill process code .... but surely they would have connected the HVAC system to pressure gauges to test the pressures during any one of the diagnostics seasons ....
The system should be between 140psi and 155psi, around 10 bar.

I only know about this stuff because I bought a set up to regas my HVAC in my motorhome after having to get it evacuated to remove the front confessor so I could remove the radiator, so I could get to the water pump .... complete idiots have been building motor vehicles for a long time, they just get more high tech as the yrs pass, and the idiots just improve the idiot skill level .... you can never make a thing idiot proof, they will always make a better idiot ....

T1 Terry

Have an appointment next week with a new service partner (where I bought the car) - Think I am going to give them a hint and let them check this. I really believe in them (seemed quite competent) and they only do MG and not 5 other brands

 

[T1 Terry]

Have an appointment next week with a new service partner (where I bought the car) - Think I am going to give them a hint and let them check this. I really believe in them (seemed quite competent) and they only do MG and not 5 other brands

Yes, the new dealership model, carry every brand you can get a dealership for, then let the over worked and under trained service dept sort out the problems.
Sounds like it's not just a problem over here then, maybe it's a world wide problem.

Maybe the buying over the internet mightn't be so bad after all ..... then again, there is no return key when the internet deal goes wrong ... unless you buy it on PayPal

T1 Terry

 

[NLMGSAN]

Ok, have some Updates:
VDS displays 0 kpa pressure on the ac line and I also have error Codes from the HVAC. So either the system is drained and the compressor isn't answering because it says stop! Or there is indeed a broken wire.

I will check the pressure using a screw driver to press on the vent and see if there is something on the line.

Good work!
I also see some very odd values in the 2026-01-10 at 12.13.23.webp-image. Like an actuator at 100% (hot) and two values at -30C. But at least we now know it has a ptc !

 

[jamakr4]

Good work!
I also see some very odd values in the 2026-01-10 at 12.13.23.webp-image. Like an actuator at 100% (hot) and two values at -30C. But at least we now know it has a ptc !

I think that could be default values that get displayed when there is no response (maybe a fried compressor that also could be responsible for the leak). That also would explain the errors.

 

[jamakr4]

These are the others values

 

[NLMGSAN]

I see. So sensors/actuators do have power.
Would be interesting to know what the set T for PTC is if the system is working. And if we could change that value.

 

[jamakr4]

I see. So sensors/actuators do have power.
Would be interesting to know what the set T for PTC is if the system is working. And if we could change that value.

Yeah. 100% hot btw seems to be a heat pump valve (as I set the temperature to 31 deg it's says hot and open 100%- so full throttle).

 

[NLMGSAN]

You set it to 31 in hvac display? Or did you manipulate it using SIPS?

 

[jamakr4]

You set it to 31 in hvac display? Or did you manipulate it using SIPS?

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