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What size main cut-out fuse are you running on ???.
It could be either a 60 / 80 / 100 Amp load rating.
It says 100 amps.
This was fitted a few years ago when I had smart meters installed.
 

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I have ordered a SR Trophy Connect from my work scheme, they use Tusker. Currently driving a Ford Focus on the scheme, with new car due about 1st July.
Tusker sent me a link to Charged EV, they are a partner company, and I filled out the application form for the new Ohme charger, and provided photos and info.
They phoned me today saying everything is fine but, before they can progress the order, I need to contact my energy provider, Octopus, and get them to fit an isolation switch.

I have no idea what this would cost, and with time running out, I really need both grants to be able to pay for the charger install.

I may have to manage with the granny charger. I don’t do a lot of distance driving so maybe I should just use that anyway?

Hello, had my wall unit fitted by ChargedEV and I didn’t need an isolation switch. So might be worth finding out a bit more? He mentioned some need isolation switch but not sure why mine didn’t to be honest.
 
Im also in the process of looking at home chargers and fear I am on a loop supply (worker needed access to our property when neighbour was getting smart meter fitted) not sure whos garden will need destroyed in the process 🤦‍♀️some installers are saying due to demand they are not taking any more at this time where they are guaranteed grant funding. Scottish power & pod point both said this. In Scotland EST grant does not run out in March. Im hoping I will make the deadline by the skin if my teeth but I have my doubts.
The installer who did site visit discussed zappi and ohme, zappi has slightly better reviews so might opt for that one.
 
It says 100 amps.
This was fitted a few years ago when I had smart meters installed.
It say’s Typhoo on the side of buses, but they don’t sell tea 🤣.
Seriously though, I think you have a 100 Amp fuse installed there by the looks of it !.
If they did a fuse head upgrade when they did the smart meter, did they fit a 100 Amp isolation switch at the same time ?.
It’s just that pure common sense that says that they would install one at the same time surely ????.
If not, the DNO would need to return and pull the main carriage and install one.
Likely they would upgrade your meter tails in size, at the same time.
 
Im also in the process of looking at home chargers and fear I am on a loop supply (worker needed access to our property when neighbour was getting smart meter fitted) not sure whos garden will need destroyed in the process 🤦‍♀️some installers are saying due to demand they are not taking any more at this time where they are guaranteed grant funding. Scottish power & pod point both said this. In Scotland EST grant does not run out in March. Im hoping I will make the deadline by the skin if my teeth but I have my doubts.
The installer who did site visit discussed zappi and ohme, zappi has slightly better reviews so might opt for that one.

The north west DNO said the same thing, they were inundated with these electricity upgrade jobs.
This is another picture in the sequence were they spliced into the main feed.

udUnKwJl.jpg

 
I’m having a Zappi 2 unit installed next week (3rd Feb). It was done via Octopus, my energy supplier, who subcontract. The guys arranged an isolator switch to my 100amp fused supply earlier this month and I’m ready to rock and roll.
The only problem with all this is I want my supply moved to an outside box, which would be less than 2M away, but I have a huge 1” diameter incoming supply cable, which is going to be a biatch to move. Still AFAIK Octopus should do this, as they’re my supplier, but I get a feeling that my incoming supply might need the big boys to move it - which apparently costs big money…in London anyhow…
 
Got my Ohme via Charging Solutions
Not the cheapest but very efficient sometimes you have to pay for good service
 
Hi!
I have a EO MINI (Not Pro). Does anybody know if its possible to install a Shelly to control the charging , timer,stop and start? And how to do it?
Not a lot of room inside of the EO Mini even though the Shelly device is very small.
You need access from a 240 volt feed and neutral to supply the Shelly, then you have to find some way of interrupting the signal wire to the car.
If you can access these items and find space inside of the small unit, you are in with a decent chance.
I have mine inside of a dumb Rolec wall box.
Loads of spare space in there !.
About 15 mins to install inside of the wall box, after setting up the App and connecting the Shelly in the house first.
To do this you will need to make up a temporary supply lead on a three pin plug.
Once it is set up correctly, you will hear the Shelly relay clicking as you command it from your phone App.
Then you can install it in the wall box.
But you will have to satisfy the above items above, to make it operate.
I think I paid about £15 for the Shally 1 device about three weeks ago.
It goes without saying, that you should follow all the safe insulation processes, before you think about removing the front cover of your wall box !.
 
Not a lot of room inside of the EO Mini even though the Shelly device is very small.
You need access from a 240 volt feed and neutral to supply the Shelly, then you have to find some way of interrupting the signal wire to the car.
If you can access these items and find space inside of the small unit, you are in with a decent chance.
I have mine inside of a dumb Rolec wall box.
Loads of spare space in there !.
About 15 mins to install inside of the wall box, after setting up the App and connecting the Shelly in the house first.
To do this you will need to make up a temporary supply lead on a three pin plug.
Once it is set up correctly, you will hear the Shelly relay clicking as you command it from your phone App.
Then you can install it in the wall box.
But you will have to satisfy the above items above, to make it operate.
I think I paid about £15 for the Shally 1 device about three weeks ago.
It goes without saying, that you should follow all the safe insulation processes, before you think about removing the front cover of your wall box !.
Okei, Thank you!
 
Not a lot of room inside of the EO Mini even though the Shelly device is very small.
You need access from a 240 volt feed and neutral to supply the Shelly, then you have to find some way of interrupting the signal wire to the car.
If you can access these items and find space inside of the small unit, you are in with a decent chance.
I have mine inside of a dumb Rolec wall box.
Loads of spare space in there !.
About 15 mins to install inside of the wall box, after setting up the App and connecting the Shelly in the house first.
To do this you will need to make up a temporary supply lead on a three pin plug.
Once it is set up correctly, you will hear the Shelly relay clicking as you command it from your phone App.
Then you can install it in the wall box.
But you will have to satisfy the above items above, to make it operate.
I think I paid about £15 for the Shally 1 device about three weeks ago.
It goes without saying, that you should follow all the safe insulation processes, before you think about removing the front cover of your wall box !.
Now the Shelly are installed into the EO Mini (there are space in the bottom), and its possible to control the charging from the app (turn on/off , time and schedule. As you said, you had to find the signal cable. It works okay.
 
That's a confusing article.
It's clearly talking about the 100A domestic supply isolator fitted between the meter and consumer unit but gives the impression it's there specifically to isolate the EV charging supply.
 
That's a confusing article.
It's clearly talking about the 100A domestic supply isolator fitted between the meter and consumer unit but gives the impression it's there specifically to isolate the EV charging supply.
Yes very confusing indeed as who is to fit those isolator switches..
 
My energy supplier (OVO) fitted my new tails and isolation switch told me it would cost from £40 to £200 but in the end they never billed me saying they should of done it when I had my meter upgraded last year
 
Mine was fitted FOC by my (Octopus) meter installer when they put in the SMETS2 meter.
Electricians have been complaining for years that they can't safely isolate a consumer unit without pulling the DNO fuse (which they aren't actually authorised to do). Having an isolator solves that problem.
 
Mine was fitted FOC by my (Octopus) meter installer when they put in the SMETS2 meter.
Electricians have been complaining for years that they can't safely isolate a consumer unit without pulling the DNO fuse (which they aren't actually authorised to do). Having an isolator solves that problem.
I was only watching a video yesterday to say that will changing shortly in the regs.
Many sparks have and will pull the main fuse when carrying out work on an install regardless.
I don’t blame them to be honest, as a spark you need to carry out a safe system of work, that means following the safe isolation process.
It is necessary to make the equipment safe to work on.
In their shoes, I would pull the fuse rather than risk dying working on a live system, trying to fit old “Mrs Jones” new electric shower !.
It’s a stupid system that should have been modified years ago.
A 100Amp double pole isolator switch almost eliminates the need to touch the DNO main cut out fuse.
If this blows, then the whole system needs checking IMO.
A 100Amp fuse does not blow for no reason, something is seriously wrong if it does.
Unless you are growing weed in the loft 🤣.
 
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