MG4 Trophy Speaker Upgrade

[nostraduckus]

Hi all, pretty new to car audio so forgive me. I've bought the Vibe coaxial and component speakers. Can I start with replacing the tweeter only? I'll need to do the door on the weekend. Can I buy an adapter to plug the tweeter crossover into the existing white connector on the dash (what would that be called?) Reason being its a lease car so I'd like the option to revert back to factory cleanly. So the door component speaker doesn't actually get connected to the crossover?

 

[okohll]

Yes, I’ve done the tweeters only (so far). The video earlier in the thread very useful, though personally I did the housing/holding a bit differently

 

[nostraduckus]

Yes, I’ve done the tweeters only (so far). The video earlier in the thread very useful, though personally I did the housing/holding a bit differently

Good to know. How did you connect the tweeter/crossover to the white plug in the dash?

 

[Alansurfer]

Not sure about an adapter but you can find the same types of connectors but will probably have to make up your own harness.
Use the Cross-over high connector unit that comes with the Vibe components and connect to the existing tweeter wiring in the dash to the input then new tweeter to the high out. Check my install video at the start of this thread. You need the cross-over the the high frequency as the original tweeter has it built in. The vibe tweeters make a really big difference to clar especially vocal and percussion. Also when changing the door speakers it’s well worth putting sound deadening inside the door panel and between door card as makes the base extension much better giving a much deeper complete bass notes.

 

[okohll]

Good to know. How did you connect the tweeter/crossover to the white plug in the dash?

As Alan said, you can find the plugs, maybe get an assorted pack and use the one which fits, but I didn’t realise that until later, I just cut the cables and used some cable connectors

 

[nostraduckus]

I have made a custom mount for the tweeters - 2 part 3D print, PETG required for one of the parts.
It's nothing fancy, but it works. Published here.

View attachment 20021View attachment 20022

I printed your files, but is it meant to work on the existing tweeter dash cover? I have an X-Power...maybe its slightly different? The bracket and holes don't seem to be spaced wide enough to fit with the screw holes on the tweeter cover.

 

[nostraduckus]

As Alan said, you can find the plugs, maybe get an assorted pack and use the one which fits, but I didn’t realise that until later, I just cut the cables and used some cable connectors

I found the plug, its this one - 2P DJ7022Y-1.8-11/21 Car Audio Dedicated Instrument Panel Tweeter Plug Connector | eBay

But I can't find it in Australia and postage times is quite long. So I found the connector pins, should be able to make it work securely.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0C1YYVS4B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[TheHypnoToad]

In the stock sound setup, does anyone know the crossover point of the tweeters?

I'm looking into a possible tweeter only upgrade, but I don't want to get some that can only handle 3KHz and up if the stock setup is crossed over at 2KHz for example

I don't really want more SPL, but I find the sound lacks detail somewhat

 

[Alansurfer]

In the stock sound setup, does anyone know the crossover point of the tweeters?

I'm looking into a possible tweeter only upgrade, but I don't want to get some that can only handle 3KHz and up if the stock setup is crossed over at 2KHz for example

I don't really want more SPL, but I find the sound lacks detail somewhat

The stock tweeter is tapped from the main speaker feed, crossover capacitor built in to the tweeter, not sure what it’s rated at as didn’t note it down. Best to add a passive crossover and new tweeter as the stock ones are pants . I’ll check and see if I still have the originals when back home to check.

 

[Tomg4]

I don't know how good your German is, but on German MG4 forum some people succesfully upgraded the tweeters with a pair of tweeters from Hertz:

Neue Hochtöner im MG4 Standard/Comfort eingebaut, ginge möglicherweise auch bei Leasing -- bleibt unbemerkt... - MG4 Electric Forum

Nun habe ich den MG4 schon seit 1.3.23 und finde den Klang ziemlich mies.Hab mich nun dran gemacht, das zu verbessern. Ich fange mal mit dem einfachsten, an, ich habe den Hochtöner im Verdacht, der lässt sich relativ einfach tauschen.Als Hochtöner habe…

www.mg4-forum.de

I'm planning on doing the same upgrade next month

 

[Alansurfer]

In the stock sound setup, does anyone know the crossover point of the tweeters?

I'm looking into a possible tweeter only upgrade, but I don't want to get some that can only handle 3KHz and up if the stock setup is crossed over at 2KHz for example

I don't really want more SPL, but I find the sound lacks detail somewhat

Here’s the original tweeter details

 

[nostraduckus]

Also when changing the door speakers it’s well worth putting sound deadening inside the door panel and between door card as makes the base extension much better giving a much deeper complete bass notes.

I finished installing the tweeters and front door speakers, and put quite a bit of sound deadening on the outside surface of the door panel, and a decent piece behind the speaker. I didn't end up taking the white plastic film off and putting more behind the door though. The new speakers seem to be a lot clearer and more bass, but almost too much bass. I'm getting a weird honking note which I cant seem to EQ out with the limited controls. It's not distorting/rattling...its like a frequency in between the first two sliders. Alan what are your EQ settings? Do the speakers settle in after awhile? Should I wait til I have the rear door speakers in to reassess?

On the rear door speakers, do you know if they have the same screw mount positions as the front ones? Because I found a 3D printed riser for the front, wondering if that will work for the rear.

 

[siteguru]

Without reading back ... did Alan fit rear speakers? (He has an SE SR which doesn't by default have rear speakers).

 

[Alansurfer]

I finished installing the tweeters and front door speakers, and put quite a bit of sound deadening on the outside surface of the door panel, and a decent piece behind the speaker. I didn't end up taking the white plastic film off and putting more behind the door though. The new speakers seem to be a lot clearer and more bass, but almost too much bass. I'm getting a weird honking note which I cant seem to EQ out with the limited controls. It's not distorting/rattling...its like a frequency in between the first two sliders. Alan what are your EQ settings? Do the speakers settle in after awhile? Should I wait til I have the rear door speakers in to reassess?

On the rear door speakers, do you know if they have the same screw mount positions as the front ones? Because I found a 3D printed riser for the front, wondering if that will work for the rear.

Hi, check photos attached. I have the virtual sub off and loudness as they are not needed. You have to install a passive high crossover for the tweeters or they won’t work well and make sure the positive and negative terminals all match up.
The rear door speaker mounts are the same, I have the Trophy so came with rear speakers as standard.
Usually a polarity issue if odd frequencies are interfering or a short (or dodgy speaker).

 

[Alansurfer]

Without reading back ... did Alan fit rear speakers? (He has an SE SR which doesn't by default have rear speakers).

Yes upgraded the rear speakers too, I have the Trophy

 

[nostraduckus]

I have the virtual sub off and loudness as they are not needed

Yes I think this was the issue, thanks a lot!

 

[Alansurfer]

Yes I think this was the issue, thanks a lot!

Glad it helped. The subwoofer settings muddle up the sound now the speakers can work across a lower frequency, they don’t need software enhancements to cover up the poor quality like the original ones do

 

[nostraduckus]

You have to install a passive high crossover for the tweeters or they won’t work well and make sure the positive and negative terminals all match up.

Regarding the tweeters, I think I have them installed correctly. They sound right. I just used the crossover that came with the Vibes. But was a little confused why the door speakers didn't need to be connected to it.

With the +/- terminals I couldn't tell which were which so I guessed and kept it consistent across the two tweeters. When I swapped the terminals I couldn't really tell a difference...

 

[Alansurfer]

Regarding the tweeters, I think I have them installed correctly. They sound right. I just used the crossover that came with the Vibes. But was a little confused why the door speakers didn't need to be connected to it.
Et
With the +/- terminals I couldn't tell which were which so I guessed and kept it consistent across the two tweeters. When I swapped the terminals I couldn't really tell a difference...

I was initially going to get another pair of crossovers and wire them up in the door just for the mid drives to save routing another cable but the sound is fine how it is. I’ve done a full frequency test and is good and the rears get full range despite reports of them only being mid to low. As long as all the terminals are matched it is fine, you can test with a volt meter or connect a 1.5V AA battery across the speaker terminals (+ to negative) if the drive cone pushes out it’s terminated correctly ie the positive side of the battery is the positive speaker terminal.
I plan on adding an amp but haven’t got round to it but I’m happy with the improvement so may not do it. The sound deadening makes a big difference to the bass performance and the tweeter upgrade is a big improvement

 

[siteguru]

Yes upgraded the rear speakers too, I have the Trophy

Thanks - your forum profile says Driving: MG4 SE SR