Miles/kWh

[ReintjeWA]

I find the closest the car comes to coasting is with regen set to A (adaptive?) but the ACC loves hard deceleration for sure. You can always switch the car to Neutral with the selector dial, I do this every now and then to clean the brake discs (as there is no regen braking in neutral). Lets me select N up to at least 80/90 km/h from memory.

 

[Jamesrr]

I prefer not using ACC, I think I can get better consumption without it.

How exactly?

As you say, it slows and starts unnecessarily, it will do this on hills even if there's no traffic.
Accelerate up hill brake on the way down, what a waste of energy.

I use ACC on long distance drives all the time. I set it to the speed limit and it keeps the car at that speed very consistently, up hills and down dales. Varies by a kph at most. It adjusts the power to do so, obviously using more power going uphill.

That would be because it's adding potential energy to the car going up a hill. It's called physics

Then when going back down it recovers that potential energy by regen so you'll typically see a -ive power value displayed.

Obviously there's losses in the process so you do get better energy efficiency on flat roads than hilly ones, but it's far better than an ICE that can't actually do any regen and can only "coast" at best and sometimes will actually have to brake to keep under the speed limit.

Using ICE techniques in an EV is often not a great way to drive efficiently...

I used to use it in the Mazda but when it was going down hill I would turn it off and let it coast until it returned to the target speed.

That would be very counter-productive in an EV. Why would you waste all that potential energy you have gained by not using Regen? It's an EV, not an ICE like your old Mazda.

In the MG turning it off does not have the same effect. I may try seeing if I can switch to neutral but it's not as easy in this pseudo auto box set up (my least favourite feature of ALL EV's)

Pseudo auto box??? What is this meant to mean? Electric motors do not need multiple gearing to overcome the torque limitations of an ICE.

You put them in "D" for Drive and they will go forward. "R" if you want to go backwards. You can put them in "N" if you have some requirement for the car to roll without the motor being engaged, but that's rare. You would almost never do so when actually driving. It's potentially dangerous.

 

[decrep]

That would be because it's adding potential energy to the car going up a hill. It's called physics

Then when going back down it recovers that potential energy by regen so you'll typically see a -ive power value displayed.

Obviously there's losses in the process so you do get better energy efficiency on flat roads than hilly ones, but it's far better than an ICE that can't actually do any regen and can only "coast" at best and sometimes will actually have to brake to keep under the speed limit.

Using ICE techniques in an EV is often not a great way to drive efficiently...

I have to agree with all that, after all this time my head was still partially in iCE mode.
However I still think slowing a bit up hills, may reduce the inherent losses.
But I think that's hard to test.
Can somebody please kick me out of ICE mode!

 

[Jamesrr]

Can somebody please kick me out of ICE mode!

I'm trying

Sometimes my mates say I'm very trying

 

[T1 Terry]

I have found I can improve the range by doing the loud pedal operation myself rather than ACC, like letting the car gain the little bit towards the bottom of the hill if an uphill is immediately ahead ..... as well as watching the load percentage when applying more drive to get up the hill on the other side.
The other thing is longer slowing approaching a corner or traffic etc, a light application of the brakes engages additional regen rather than friction of brake pads against discs .....

But to be honest, I just love the laziness of ACC driving, so I only get involved in the whole economical driving things if I'm trying to extend the range ...... or make up for some more aggressive driving earlier in the charge cycle, but still need to get home ...... there are long stretches when using the short cuts between Adelaide and Mannum, where EV charging hasn't quite reached yet ..... in fact, there aren't even fuel stations in those parts these days, they have all shut up shop .....

T1 Terry

 

[T1 Terry]

I have to agree with all that, after all this time my head was still partially in iCE mode.
However I still think slowing a bit up hills, may reduce the inherent losses.
But I think that's hard to test.
Can somebody please kick me out of ICE mode!

Still run into mind missteps where increasing the motor rpm is actually better for energy economy than reducing it and relying on the torque ..... EV torque is big from very low rpm, but it eats stored capacity

T1 Terry

 

[decrep]

Still run into mind missteps where increasing the motor rpm is actually better for energy economy than reducing it and relying on the torque ..... EV torque is big from very low rpm, but it eats stored capacity

T1 Terry

So how do we do that Terry?
Don't accelerate hard at low speed perhaps?

I have found I can improve the range by doing the loud pedal operation myself rather than ACC, like letting the car gain the little bit towards the bottom of the hill if and uphill is immediately ahead ..

I like that, I don't mind going 5ks over.

... as well as watching the load percentage when applying more drive to get up the hill on the other side.

so what's the cut out?

The other thing is longer slowing approaching a corner or traffic etc, a light application of the brakes engages addition regen rather than friction of brake pads against discs ...

I do that anyway, always have, annoys drivers behind sometimes, but I just hope they realise the advantages of not actually stopping for the lights. Leaving a bigger gap to the vehicle in front also helps stop all that on and off the brake.

..

But to be honest, I just love the laziness of ACC driving,

Now I'm going to have to give it a try, I'll give it a few weeks and see how I go.

 

[Cabansail]

I normally set the cruise speed to 85kph which is either 15kph or 25kph below the speed limit. No matter if you are in an EV or ICE those last few kph create a lot more drag and hence chew up more energy.
Then I try to minimise the use of brakes, be that friction or regen. Rapid acceleration or deceleration also waste energy. It also pays to reduce items which increase drag (like roof racks etc) or incur drive train losses (like auto boxes and poorly inflated tyres.)
The old Mazda actually had regen, on deceleration it would draw power into a large capacitor and would use that to power the electrics and reduce alternator load. In that car the highway cycle was 4.7 l/100km but I could get about 4 on a trip, the best I ever recorded was 3.4. I am still refining my use of the MG to get the best economy.

 

[barry7153]

Very confused about the mls/kWh readings. Sometimes when I start the car it can start as low as 1.8 and slowly increase as the journey proceeds. However the predicted range doesn't seem to increase at all relative to the reading. The car reviews would suggest it should be around 4. I understand that it will vary with whatever else is switched on, AC/radio etc, but by that much?

Trying not to be paranoid but just done a home charge and seeing this. Surely not right for a 64kw battery?

 

[LenEV2016]

What part do you think isn't right? The range at 90% ?

If you look at your mls/kWh you are getting 3.2 miles, the trophy/long range has a 61.7 kWh usable capacity, so your real range is about 188 miles at 100% which is normal for the time of year.

 

[barry7153]

Thanks for that, I never realised there would be a 100 mile difference summer to winter.

 

[bedsev]

Not sure where to post this, but this seems to be efficiency related, so here's my 18 month update on costs of running my car without any home charging. I continue to track downwards on the average cost I'm paying as I've got better at finding good value chargers + Tesla opened up 5 minutes from my house, so that's a bargain.

I've spent £2201.41 (including 2 * annual Tesla memberships) on 4841kw and done 15521 miles. Roughly a £250 saving vs my previous diesel.



So that, average cost pkw 45p (including memberships). All time miles per kw is 3.12.

Original tyres, so only other costs are £10 tax (I think), and £470 service plan spread over 3 years.

Any Youtuber or MSM journo that says you have to home charge to save money with an EV is simply wrong.

 

[LenEV2016]

Thanks for that, I never realised there would be a 100 mile difference summer to winter.

I wouldn't go on your GOM, just do a quick sum with your mls/kWh. Even if you GOM is saying 288 in the summer you will struggle to get that with any kind of normal mixed, speed limit driving as that is a consistent 4.7 mls/kWh. Achievable on some slow journeys but probably not long term at any speed above 60mph.

 

[T1 Terry]

So how do we do that Terry?
Don't accelerate hard at low speed perhaps?


I like that, I don't mind going 5ks over.

so what's the cut out?

I do that anyway, always have, annoys drivers behind sometimes, but I just hope they realise the advantages of not actually stopping for the lights. Leaving a bigger gap to the vehicle in front also helps stop all that on and off the brake.

Now I'm going to have to give it a try, I'll give it a few weeks and see how I go.

Light throttle, watch the load meter, lower right of the main screen ..... you will find a figure you feel good with, that suits you driving ..... a mobile road block can be just as dangerous as a speeding driver.
I look to not be a nuisance to other drivers, I might be retired, but they still have to make a living .... truck drivers in particular ...... anything under the posted speed limit is robbing money from their pay packet and their hourly pay rate, stuck at 80km/h behind a road block on wheels in a 100km/h zone means you are robbing him of 20% of his hourly rate ..... how would you feel if someone was doing that to you?

Rant over, sorry if I offended anyone ..... we all share the same road, be mindful of them as to whether your urge to get the best possible economy ..... who else are you affecting ......

T1 Terry

 

[decrep]

There's sometimes the option to pull over and let them pass, or speed up until passing is possible. We don't have to be a mega nuisance to other drivers, frustrated, pissed off drivers are more likely to cause an accident.
Try and keep everybody happy.
There's one good quote, that would make the roads a safer place.
"Do unto others -----"

I really enjoyed driving in Italy, driving was geared to the most efficient traffic flow. Took me a while to work out why truckies were flashing their lights, it was to let overtaking trucks know that they had passed and there was now room for them to pull back in

 

[T1 Terry]

There's sometimes the option to pull over and let then pass, or speed up until passing is possible. We don't have to be a mega nuisance to other drivers, frustrated, pissed off drivers are more likely to cause an accident.
Try and keep everybody happy.
There's one good quote, that would make the roads a safer place.
"Do unto others -----"

I really enjoyed driving in Italy, driving was geared to the most efficient traffic flow. Took me a while to work out why truckies were flashing their lights, it was to let overtaking trucks know that they had passed and there was now room for them to pull back in

"Do unto others -----" but remember, they probably have dashcam these days

The Truck etiquette regarding looking out for each other is very strong in Aust, the long slow high beam flash to say it is clear to pull back in, is generally rewarded with the indicator flash each way repeated a few times, to say thank you for your curtesy ..... I still don't understand the urge for some people to try to outrun the truck when in the overtaking section, only to slow back down once they can no longer pass safely .....

The trucker will clearly indicate his intention to overtake, wait until he is clear of the lane you are in before slowing or easing off the throttle, once he has his trailers past you and you feel it is clear for the truck to move in front of you, three steady long high beam flashes tells him he can move back onto the correct side of the road safely.

The single indicator flash, left, not safe to pass, right safe to pass, truckers are more likely to do this for car drivers, don't forget to thank them after you passing ...... courtesy is catching .....

T1 Terry

 

[ReintjeWA]

I still don't understand the urge for some people to try to outrun the truck when in the overtaking section, only to slow back down once they can no longer pass safely .....

I am convinced people to this because they are scared driving single lanes, so they slow down (wether they realise or not), then the overtaking lane gives them separation from oncoming traffic so they feel comfortable again and realise they’ve been going slow so speed up.

The single indicator flash, left, not safe to pass, right safe to pass, truckers are more likely to do this for car drivers, don't forget to think them after you passing ...... courtesy is catching .....

There have been campaigns against this, truckers and farmers are sick of people overtaking them as they try to make a right turn. Indicators mean they are intend on turning, don’t interpret these as anything else for everyone’s safety. If you regularly need to overtake trucks, invest in some radio gear and talk to them.

 

[T1 Terry]

A regular flash means you are turning, a single flash of the indicator light couldn't be intercepted as a signal to turn, otherwise, why would they use a flasher can

Knowing the undocumented rules of the highway helps everyone to travel safer and enjoy the trip more ..... who doesn't enjoy a "Thank You" from another driver sharing the road with you ...... Anti-road-rage at it's best

T1 Terry

 

[Jamesrr]

I normally set the cruise speed to 85kph which is either 15kph or 25kph below the speed limit. No matter if you are in an EV or ICE those last few kph create a lot more drag and hence chew up more energy.

So, not actually a practical suggestion for the vast majority of people going on trips outside of town.

For sure, it's true that you will get much better energy utilisation at 85kph vs the speed limit of 100 or 110kph. One of the best things to do if you are in danger of not making it to the next recharging station is to SLOW DOWN.

But... that's a very impractical methodology to PLAN on going slower than the speed limit and peeing off the rest of the vehicles driving it, particularly the single lane highways where commercial vehicles are using it along with the rest of us.

It takes a deal of effort for a B-Double to overtake someone pottering along well under the speed limit and causes everyone else stuck behind them to get cranky and think about performing dangerous overtaking manoeuvres.

While you may be maximising your energy efficiency you're not being the most thoughtful person to the rest of the road users.

Anyway, that's my take on it and I apologise if you feel I'm being rude, but I think it needs to be said.

Then I try to minimise the use of brakes, be that friction or regen. Rapid acceleration or deceleration also waste energy. It also pays to reduce items which increase drag (like roof racks etc) or incur drive train losses (like auto boxes and poorly inflated tyres.)

These are definitely sensible things to address, that being said, "auto boxes" don't apply to our EVs. They have a single gearing ratio to ensure the car can achieve it's performance design acceleration and top speed. There is no additional "drive train loss" associated with it's use over the alternative, given that there is no alternative

It's not as though there's a choice between a "Manual" EV and an "Auto" EV.

Pumping up your tyres is a really good thing to do. You should check tyre pressure regularly in any event.

 

[Martinonline]

I first noticed the use of a short burst of the hazard warning lights to say thank you in South Africa about 20 years ago. It is present in the UK now.