Safe, or pushing it? (charge rate from 3 pin plug)

Question is, am I fairly safe to be running this or beginning to push things uncomfortably? I'm tempted to run it a couple of hours and monitor the temperature displayed (it usually goes to about 30 degrees).
What's the rush - I charge at 6.0 amps - takes a long time but it does the job.
 
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I have a 10m Tough Leads extension my
MG4 charges at 1.7-1.9A quite happily. I changed the face plate on my socket to a decent steel one and have no heat issues (would get very hot on the old socket which likely had worn out). Only issue is it’s slow but not a big issue. Didn't want to get a charger installed as I am private renting.
 
Most sockets are only rated for 10A maximum continuous use in the UK. Even 10A is too much if anything else is running on the same circuit. And that assumes perfect wiring.

Attempting to run beyond this at 13A for extended periods is a huge risk for little benefit.

By far the best option is a dedicated outlet with its own circuit breaker and minimal connections. I appreciate this isn't always an option but it is senseless to take risks.

Often the failure isn't the first time or first ten times you use it, it is a few dozen or hundred times later when the cumulative damage of the thermal stress progressively increases resistance, raises temperatures and results in something burning out. If you are unlucky, it then causes a fire.
That's not true - a 13A socket is rated at 13A (provided it's from a reputable manufacturer). Ring main circuits in the UK have a 30A fuse but you should check the loads on the rest of the circuit. Few extension leads are actually rated at 13A (and de-rate if coiled too). A 1.5mm² flexible cable is only rated at 10A and many cables are not suitable for outdoor use (UV affects them). If you have to I'd get a proper site extension 2.5mm² cable with a 'commando' type socket which are rated at 15A. I'd also get an electrician to wire an outdoor commando socket to connect it to.
 
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That's not true - a 13A socket is rated at 13A (provided it's from a reputable manufacturer).
False. That's typically peak load, not continuous load for dozens of hours, which is the scenario here. Yes modern new electrical installations (to today's standards) may cope with this but many people don't have those.
Ring main circuits in the UK have a 30A fuse but you should check the loads on the rest of the circuit.
Again false - UK homes have a variety of fuse boxes, fuses, consumer units, circuit breakers and wiring dating back decades. Not all ring mains in the past were installed with 30A fuses. Many homes have old wiring with poor connections that is past its best.

Who knows what else is on the same circuit?

Why would you want to push the limits and take the risk?
Few extension leads are actually rated at 13A (and de-rate if coiled too). A 1.5mm2 flexible cable is only rated at 10A and many cables are not suitable for outdoor use (UV affects them).
True, you need to be careful with extension leads.
If you have to I'd get a proper site extension 2.5mm2 cable with a 'commando' type socket which are rated at 15A. I'd also get an electrician to wire an outdoor commando socket to connect it to.
This can work well, but then if you can fit a commando and go that expense, not massively more to have a 7kW home charger fitted.
 
There is some variation depending on how:where the cable is fixed but basic 2.5mm² T&E is rated at 32A and at least one double socket I found was 13+6A so not 13A from both sockets.
 
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One of issues is overheating with continuous use and the relatively small surface area of the contact points of a standard plug. A commando plug ( industrial ) either 16A or better 32A have a greater surface area and so can dissipate and resist the heat better. They also have a lid which acts as a bit of a clamp to stop the plug being accidently loosen or pulled out. In France and possibly UK they are illegal for domestic usage because even though they have a lid on the socket they don't have shutters to isolate the live and neutral so its possible to stick something down the socket holes and so give a shock. The lid normally has hole and corresponding hole on the socket to put on a small padlock so making it safe from prying hands. Of course the socket should be connected to the consumer unit with a dedicated 2.5 mm² protected cable and preferably double pole MCB.
 
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