UK Owners - How many miles are you getting on a full charge?

[MickeySw]

Exactly which is why I find the whole resetting exercise pointless it's a totally false reading

Not of you know what you’re doing , as @siteguru correctly pointed out, it’s a quick way to determine battery degradation without a diagnostic tool, e.g. if the GOM shows 230 instead of 250 miles (WLTP), your SoH has reduced to 92%.

If you do a BMS calibration charge and the range doesn’t change afterwards, the predicted SoH of the HV battery is correct.

Btw WLTP range testing is done @ battery temperatures >20 deg C…

 

[Macadoodle]

The predicted range is effectively calculated based on your Accumulated Total miles/kWh x your current SoC (based on your battery pack size and SoH).

So if your miles/kWh says 3, and your 100% capacity is 50kWh then your 100% range would be 150 miles. In my SE SR this seems to pretty much correlate year round ... better range in summer, worse range in winter, but the GOM seems reasonably accurate.

However the key thing to watch is not the range, it is the percentage SoC remaining. If you reset the Acc Total meter then the predicted range will be related to the WLTP range, but your actual available range will depend on climatic conditions and driving style. Over time the Acc Total will relearn these factors.

I don't use my SE for any journey that's much more than 100 miles round trip at this time of year, hate using public charging and hate the twinge in the gut that is range anxiety.

I've started using the battery heater in the winter after an incident where the car throttled current mid- overtake, very unpleasant Never does that with a warm battery an decent SOC.

Regularly see less than 3 miles kWh with this setup though.

Another thing when it comes to the miles we can expect - it's funny how we all just trust the miles / kWh the car reports. I would be highly surprised if it's not a couple of tenths off ( in favour of the manufacturer ) like absolutely every single ICE car I've ever owned which were usually 5% adrift when comparing the computer readout with a brim to brim refill.

 

[MickeySw]

like absolutely every single ICE car I've ever owned which were usually 5% adrift when comparing the computer readout with a brim to brim refill.

Might have something to do with how accurately one can measure actual fuel consumption in an ICE car?

On the other hand the Coulomb counting method (integrating current over time) used in EV’s is very accurate?

 

[Macadoodle]

Might have something to do with how accurately one can measure actual fuel consumption in an ICE car?

On the other hand the Coulomb counting method (integrating current over time) used in EV’s is very accurate?

It certainly should be but they still want their cars to look as efficient as possible I think, they're all more than happy to go along with the nonsense that is WLTP let's face it.

Thinking about the last few Diesel cars I owned, all 1.6 or 2.0 estates Ford, VW, Vauxhall. All 4 to 5 % over optimistic regardless of where I filled up, ambient temp etc.

Almost like it was the amount they figured would go unnoticed by your average Joe.....

 

[Sparky2]

Up here in the Pennines, the summer range at 100% charge was around 240 miles but it has dropped to 180 this winter which has been particularly long, cold and wet. Motorway speeds are a real range-killer so keeping below 60mph is the key to a reasonable range (MG4 Trophy LR).
When I think back to my old BMW 335d M-Sport X-Drive Touring with 200k miles on the clock, in the summer it would do up to 600 miles on one tank of diesel if you kept below 60mph. Just saying that EVs have still got a long way to go to combat range-anxiety for long journeys. The cost-per-mile used to be the winner for EVs if you could charge at home in the night on 7p/kWh but now that the Government has slapped road tax (£195 p.a.) on the MG, that advantage will soon be lost

 

[LenEV2016]

Not of you know what you’re doing , as @siteguru correctly pointed out, it’s a quick way to determine battery degradation without a diagnostic tool, e.g. if the GOM shows 230 instead of 250 miles (WLTP), your SoH has reduced to 92%.

If you do a BMS calibration charge and the range doesn’t change afterwards, the predicted SoH of the HV battery is correct.

Btw WLTP range testing is done @ battery temperatures >20 deg C…

Some cars don't reset completely however, which would hamper this, the MG 4 obviously does, my Born doesn't it's will add a couple of extra miles but still give a more realistic range guess.
My relatives Mégane is the same it's doesn't reset to WLTP and this is nothing to do with the SOH of the battery, as they both go back up in the summer

 

[siteguru]

Just to close the loop ... I did a full charge Sunday night; 100% and balance (from about 30% - I needed to charge as I had a trip planned that was longer than the predicted range at 30% SoC). When I got into the car it showed a range of about 145 miles (Normal mode and HVAC on); after resetting the Acc Total odometer the range increased to 192 miles, 202 miles with HVAC off (which is how the iSmart app usually shows range - Normal and HVAC off - as the car is usually off when you use the app).

WLTP is supposedly 218 miles, but that also assumes 20°C ambient temperature, so a warm battery. Even after first getting the car (in Nov '22, so winter temps) I don't think I ever saw anywhere near 218. On that basis it seems that the reported SOH via OBD is just a number and bears little relation to the actual battery health.

 

[Macadoodle]

About what I see with my now 45k miles SE. Good thing is I haven't really noticed much in the way of capacity loss in the last 18 months, the first 18 months showed around 4 %.

I never look at the predicted range, I just know what to expect after 3 years ownership.

Any car's WLTP with 20% deducted for warm months and a further 20% for winter should give you a fairly accurate number I find.

 

[CuriousIslander]

I find this discussion of what you can get out of the battery very interesting.

I usually charge my car to 90% and then potter about the Isle of Wight. Invariably I find that I can drive more than 60 miles as the battery level drops to 70% - using up 20% of the battery, even in the cold(er) weather, (today being a good example), which gives a "whole battery" figure in excess of 300 miles (30+ miles driven on 10% of the battery). However, carrying on, the consumption increases, so that when the battery gets down to 50% (having used 40%) the distance driven is in the order of 110 miles. This works out at about 27 to 28 miles to 10% of battery (110 miles divided by 4), or 270ish miles to a "full tank". When the battery level falls below 50% consumption increases even more and the "whole battery" figure drops to 250 miles or so.

I have considered recharging - I can do it at home - every other day or so, to stay in the 300+ mile zone, but I am not sure whether this would have a long-term detrimental effect on the battery. I drive only a dozen or so times on the mainland each year, distance anything up to 200 miles or more, for which I always charge to 100% before I set off, and usually get about 260 to 280 miles to a full charge equivalent, especially if I am carrying more passengers than my usual me plus one.

Overall, I am happy with these consumption figures, but I am sure that a lot of the good local figures are due to where I live. There are few roads where it is safe (and legal) to drive faster than 40 to 50 mph. The majority of my driving is within a 10 mile radius from home, which I think accounts for much of what I find.

 

[LenEV2016]

I find this discussion of what you can get out of the battery very interesting.

I usually charge my car to 90% and then potter about the Isle of Wight. Invariably I find that I can drive more than 60 miles as the battery level drops to 70% - using up 20% of the battery, even in the cold(er) weather, (today being a good example), which gives a "whole battery" figure in excess of 300 miles (30+ miles driven on 10% of the battery). However, carrying on, the consumption increases, so that when the battery gets down to 50% (having used 40%) the distance driven is in the order of 110 miles. This works out at about 27 to 28 miles to 10% of battery (110 miles divided by 4), or 270ish miles to a "full tank". When the battery level falls below 50% consumption increases even more and the "whole battery" figure drops to 250 miles or so.

I have considered recharging - I can do it at home - every other day or so, to stay in the 300+ mile zone, but I am not sure whether this would have a long-term detrimental effect on the battery. I drive only a dozen or so times on the mainland each year, distance anything up to 200 miles or more, for which I always charge to 100% before I set off, and usually get about 260 to 280 miles to a full charge equivalent, especially if I am carrying more passengers than my usual me plus one.

Overall, I am happy with these consumption figures, but I am sure that a lot of the good local figures are due to where I live. There are few roads where it is safe (and legal) to drive faster than 40 to 50 mph. The majority of my driving is within a 10 mile radius from home, which I think accounts for much of what I find.

Battery discharge isn't linear in most cars.
why would you need to stay in the 300 mile zone?
I tend to charge my car to 80% and charge again around the 30% mark (sometimes under)