V2L Test. 7kW output...

[BugEyed]

Has your neighbour got another LR or is theirs the SR? If it is, I don't suppose that they'd fancy seeing if an SR can pull the same load?

 

[Stageshoot]

Has your neighbour got another LR or is theirs the SR? If it is, I don't suppose that they'd fancy seeing if an SR can pull the same load?

Sorry no they are Trophy as well.

Will say the MG4 is less fault tolerant than the EV6..

On the EV6 all worked straight away and always worked

When I first plugged the MG4 into my system it would not work and tripped, with a bit of fault finding we found a 13amp socket in the Kitchen with the Postive and Neutral Wires reversed, corrected that and its been great since.. The EV6 didnt even register it..

 

[siteguru]

You could argue that the MG4 was working correctly and safely whereas the EV6 wasn't.

 

[tsedge]

So say I pull 10kw in a day for the house, thats 1/6 of a cycle.

MG rate for 2000 cycles I believe, so 12000 days. (32 Odd Years). at 1/6 cycle

Driving the car and using 50 to 80% a day makes the Kws from V2L Insignificant

Not that it would ever bother me I change car every year due to my mileage.

Many sound horrible but I paid the original price for it so intend to use it as much as I can, dont see the point in buying something new and not squeezing as much use and value out of it I can

Technically, this looks like it will work. However, MG would be within their rights to consider this usage outside the terms of the warranty, since you are exceeding the rated V2L output. Whether they record this and can tell and care is unknown.

I think it is brilliant that you are experimenting,

 

[Stageshoot]

Technically, this looks like it will work. However, MG would be within their rights to consider this usage outside the terms of the warranty, since you are exceeding the rated V2L output. Whether they record this and can tell and care is unknown.

I think it is brilliant that you are experimenting,

Like I say will only have the car a year, no interest in longevity after that

 

[tsedge]

Like I say will only have the car a year, no interest in longevity after that

Understood. Could affect resale value, that’s all I was thinking.

 

[Stageshoot]

Understood. Could affect resale value, that’s all I was thinking.

Cant see it.

Sold 8 EVs so far over the last 8 years and its been the best low cost motoring ever

Trading in our EV6 for exactly what we paid for it a year and over 30k miles earlier. Even with 30+k miles on it, and 100s of hours of V2L use battery was still 100% State Of Health in the app

Not that it caused the dealer any issues either at that mileage and use, he sold it on within a week for a few grand profit.

Sort of got blasé about car values in the last few years, over nearly 300k miles sold 8 EVs and taken a hit of £18400 in depreciation, think what the depreciation would have been like on ICE cars over that mileage.

Taking into account fuel savings etc of £35900 we are actually over £17k in pocket, if you were to add in ICE service costs etc it would double that.

 

[tsedge]

Cant see it.

Sold 8 EVs so far over the last 8 years and its been the best low cost motoring ever

Trading in our EV6 for exactly what we paid for it a year and over 30k miles earlier. Even with 30+k miles on it, and 100s of hours of V2L use battery was still 100% State Of Health in the app

Not that it caused the dealer any issues either at that mileage and use, he sold it on within a week for a few grand profit.

Sort of got blasé about car values in the last few years, over nearly 300k miles sold 8 EVs and taken a hit of £18400 in depreciation, think what the depreciation would have been like on ICE cars over that mileage.

Taking into account fuel savings etc of £35900 we are actually over £17k in pocket, if you were to add in ICE service costs etc it would double that.

That’s good to hear. Yes, if you are doing a lot of miles, EVs make enormous sense.

 

[Shanecb]

I'm really interested in this...Great post @Stageshoot. Looks like from myenergi app, that I use around 10kwh per day on the house itself. So I assume that would mean that I could run my house off of my LR for around 6 days if needed.

For me, this makes either solar far more affordable or indeed, if I can charge the car whilst at work, home energy far more affordable.

Do you have any details on what I would need at home to get a similar setup? I assume a V2L cable wired into some sort of diverter switch? How do you cut off the grid supply to make use of the vehicles energy?

I'd of course get an electrician to do the work required.

Thank you!

 

[Stageshoot]

I'm really interested in this...Great post @Stageshoot. Looks like from myenergi app, that I use around 10kwh per day on the house itself. So I assume that would mean that I could run my house off of my LR for around 6 days if needed.

For me, this makes either solar far more affordable or indeed, if I can charge the car whilst at work, home energy far more affordable.

Do you have any details on what I would need at home to get a similar setup? I assume a V2L cable wired into some sort of diverter switch? How do you cut off the grid supply to make use of the vehicles energy?

I'd of course get an electrician to do the work required.

Thank you!

There is a thread here somewhere with the details.

But basically yes V2L Lead (7Kw) Wired back to a 3 position switch between consumer unit and meter.

P1 - Grid
P0 - All Disconected
P2 - Car

So can can never be on at same time as grid and cannot feed back to grid. as soon as switch goes to Car the house is islanded and cannot get to grid.

A decent earth rod is also needed.

The only downside is there is a total loss of power when switching over so everything in house reboots. we are a looking to see if its worth getting a small home battery backup (just a handful of Kw) so the switchover is smooth with no power loss

 

[Shanecb]

That's a really good option for sure...what's to stop the vehicle electricity going upstream and exporting back to the grid, does the meter manage/stop that?

A small battery would be ideal in that set up for sure...

 

[Stageshoot]

That's a really good option for sure...what's to stop the vehicle electricity going upstream and exporting back to the grid, does the meter manage/stop that?

A small battery would be ideal in that set up for sure...

When the switch is in car position the grid is isolated and House islanded so no way power can go to grid

 

[tsedge]

That's a really good option for sure...what's to stop the vehicle electricity going upstream and exporting back to the grid, does the meter manage/stop that?

A small battery would be ideal in that set up for sure...

The car would be out of phase with the grid so this would be dangerous unless mediated by something doing the phase-locking. This is why it is V2L and not V2G.

 

[Shanecb]

The car would be out of phase with the grid so this would be dangerous unless mediated by something doing the phase-locking. This is why it is V2L and not V2G.

Do you mean dangerous with regards to electricity being able to get out of the property? Does that mean you'd need to put something in place to mitigate it? I'd of course discuss with a sparky, but I would like to consider this to see if it's a viable option

 

[BugEyed]

we are a looking to see if its worth getting a small home battery backup (just a handful of Kw) so the switchover is smooth with no power loss

You'd be back to needing phase matching for that to happen.

It's amazing how insensitive to wave form modern devices are - I'd have thought that fridges, freezers and washing machines would be more sensitive because of the motors than devices with internal AC to DC converters.

 

[Ayoull]

There is a thread here somewhere with the details.

But basically yes V2L Lead (7Kw) Wired back to a 3 position switch between consumer unit and meter.

P1 - Grid
P0 - All Disconected
P2 - Car

So can can never be on at same time as grid and cannot feed back to grid. as soon as switch goes to Car the house is islanded and cannot get to grid.

A decent earth rod is also needed.

The only downside is there is a total loss of power when switching over so everything in house reboots. we are a looking to see if its worth getting a small home battery backup (just a handful of Kw) so the switchover is smooth with no power lossView attachment 12857

You'd all need a type S 100mA RCD main switch as you've now got a TT earthing system which doesn't provide a low enough earth loop impedance for your circuit breakers to operate within safe limits.

 

[tsedge]

Do you mean dangerous with regards to electricity being able to get out of the property? Does that mean you'd need to put something in place to mitigate it? I'd of course discuss with a sparky, but I would like to consider this to see if it's a viable option

You need to match the phases of the grid and the car and the car won't do this itself. Some home inverter systems installed for PV have spare inputs that can do this (I am sure someone posted recently with an example of this), but yes you'll need something that does this between car and grid, and for any grid export it will need to be an approved installation anyway.

 

[BugEyed]

which doesn't might not provide a low enough earth loop impedance for your circuit breakers to operate within safe limits

FTFY

Some properties operate totally safely on TT Earthing - the OP states that his property is wired as TT anyway.

But your advice is sound and meets the current interpretations of the IEE regulations. Frankly I'd like to see Type B protection in there as well to prevent potential DC blinding, but that's not currently in scope of the regulations.

 

[deanhalllincoln]

Hi stageshoot, your setup is what i have been thinking about. My Trophy arrives in three weeks will be doing the same.

What size cable do you have in your Type 2 connector that goes in the car? Will it take a 6mm three core flexable cable?

Ty Dean

 

[BugEyed]

A standard 32A Type 2 lead uses 6mm2 so why not use one of those for the flexible part to connect to the car? Tethered leads can be picked up on eBay for under £50 if you look carefully, or you can cut up a Type 2 to Type 2. Just remember that you want the female end (that goes into the car - meaning you can't cut up a Type 1 to Type 2 lead which only has a male type 2) and you want one that you can unscrew to get in to change the value of the controlling resistor.