V2L Test. 7kW output...

Retro-modifying current vehicles to output DC seems less likely than anticipating the availability of a hybrid invertor that could take in the V2L AC output, or as a DC source that has been generated by using a convertor for AC to DC conversion.
 
I think making the EV dc port bi-directional should not be a big technical issue.
Yes. Batteries are inherently bidirectional. "All" you need is to turn on the contactors. I believe that there are various tricks; I haven't looked into it.

How difficult it would be to increase the impedance of the power supply?
I'd say it's not practical. The trivial way is to add a resistor in series, but it will have to dissipate massive power, and all that power is lost unless you harness it to heat somewhere cold.

You might think: easy solution; use a domestic heater, they're cheap and designed to dissipate lots of power. But the switches and thermostat will be designed for AC, which is a lot easier and cheaper to switch than DC. A water heater has the same problem.
 
Retro-modifying current vehicles to output DC seems less likely than anticipating the availability of a hybrid invertor that could take in the V2L AC output,
Some inverters can already take the V2L output and happily switch it through to the load, use it to charge a battery, or both. Some can also blend AC-in power with solar power, meaning that you can use solar power in preference to battery power or AC-in power. It will be thinking of V2L power as utility power, and often you want to minimise the use of that.

There are also a few inverters with two AC inputs, usually designed for grid and generator connection. The V2L should be able to plug into the generator input. Generators often have a power limit, so these inverters often have a setting to limit the generator (now V2L) power. You can use this to prevent overloading of the V2L system, and/or (perhaps best with a little clever automation) going easy on the V2L power if the car's SoC gets a bit low.

In the popular moderately priced (and moderate performance) Axpert inverter series, there are Duplex and Twin models. The Twin models have two AC load ports; this is not useful here. But the Duplex models have two AC in ports; those would be the ones to look for if you want to integrate V2L. I've not seen or heard about any Duplex models, I've only noticed them on the manufacturer's web site. I'm sure that other manufacturers have similar models and different naming conventions.
 
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Some inverters can already take the V2L output and happily switch it through to the load, use it to charge a battery, or both. Some can also blend AC-in power with solar power, meaning that you can use solar power in preference to battery power or AC-in power. It will be thinking of V2L power as utility power, and often you want to minimise the use of that.

There are also a few inverters with two AC inputs, usually designed for grid and generator connection. The V2L should be able to plug into the generator input. Generators often have a power limit, so these inverters often have a setting to limit the generator (now V2L) power. You can use this to prevent overloading of the V2L system, and/or (perhaps best with a little clever automation) going easy on the V2L power if the car's SoC gets a bit low.

In the popular moderately priced (and moderate performance) Axpert inverter series, there are Duplex and Twin models. The Twin models have two AC load ports; this is not useful here. But the Duplex models have two AC in ports; those would be the ones to look for if you want to integrate V2L. I've not seen or heard about any Duplex models, I've only noticed them on the manufacturer's web site. I'm sure that other manufacturers have similar models and different naming conventions.
I assume that these inverters would use the AC output from the car in island mode, disconnecting the house from the grid? If it was possible to take the AC output from the car, convert it to DC and then feed this into a hybrid inverter (DC voltage level from converter matched to DC input of hybrid inverter) in order to overcome the issues of additional earthing requirements, but also allowing the hybrid inverter to produce an AC output that is synced to the grid in order to power the house.
 
I assume that these inverters would use the AC output from the car in island mode, disconnecting the house from the grid?
I believe so. They all seem to monitor the grid input and disconnect when it's out of specification, including of course not present at all.
If it was possible to take the AC output from the car, convert it to DC and then feed this into a hybrid inverter (DC voltage level from converter matched to DC input of hybrid inverter) in order to overcome the issues of additional earthing
I don't see that as practical, and the earthing issue could be solved either by the inverter and appropriate settings, or by earthing neutral from the V2L at the inverter's generator input. The house should have a good earth connection, since it's a bad idea to rely on the grid's earth when the power is down. The fallen tree that chopped the power probably chopped the earth connection as well.
also allowing the hybrid inverter to produce an AC output that is synced to the grid
Being able to synchronise with the grid is a great feature, since you can support the house load without fear of overloading the V2L system, and even make money exporting to the grid at times of very high demand. Usually that would require the car to be V2G capable, but yes if an efficient way could be found to feed DC from the car to the house inverter, then in many cases the house inverter could do the synchronisation.
 
Where I live, I often experience outage of electricity. my nightly consumption of power is less than 7kw.. so I'm interested as using the mg4 as an emergency source of power. the V2L supplied by MG is only rated at 16A, 250Volts.

So I need a V2L hardware that is capable to dish out 32amp of power without overheating or burning.
So where does one gets a V2L that can manage 32amp.
Can I just mod the resistor so that it can send 32 amps?
Thank you
 

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You might do that but it's likely none of the rest of the V2L adapter has been built to handle such current. You need the appropriate terminals, wires etc before pushing more current through than it is designed for.
i can always find an certified electrician to mod it, changing all to the necessary cables etc that can handle 32amp. but it would be just a convenience to just buy 1 off the shelf.
 
You might do that but it's likely none of the rest of the V2L adapter has been built to handle such current. You need the appropriate terminals, wires etc before pushing more current through than it is designed for.
That should be easy to find, since many on-board chargers are capable of handling 32 A. The fact that the power will be flowing in the other direction doesn't affect the current rating of the contacts, cable, etc.

I can always find an certified electrician to mod it, changing all to the necessary cables etc that can handle 32amp. but it would be just a convenience to just buy 1 off the shelf.
That's unlikely, because MG for whatever reason decided to make the V2L official rating only about 16 A. Others have found that they can make 32 A flow, but that doesn't mean that the cooling etc is adequate to sustain that current continuously, or for any particular load factor.

The only real chance would be to find a V2L cable designed for some other type 2 vehicle that is rated at 32 A, and I'm not aware of any. You'd likely have to modify the resistor anyway, and it probably won't have suitable outlets for your country. A reasonable compromise might be a cable designed for a DIY tethered EVSE, such as the European (type 2) version of OpenEVSE, that is rated for 32 A. That way you start with a properly crimped connector, cable that is definitely rated for 32 A continuous, and has a reasonable expectation of quality. Then you get your electrician to add (an) appropriate connector(s) at the other end, and the appropriate resistor in the plug.

Edit: Then you just need to hope that the On Board Charger can sustain the sorts of power demands that you give it without failing in some way. If something goes wrong, it's unlikely that it will be fixed under warranty, as you have exceeded the rated current of the V2L system.
 
I believe so. They all seem to monitor the grid input and disconnect when it's out of specification, including of course not present at all.

I don't see that as practical, and the earthing issue could be solved either by the inverter and appropriate settings, or by earthing neutral from the V2L at the inverter's generator input. The house should have a good earth connection, since it's a bad idea to rely on the grid's earth when the power is down. The fallen tree that chopped the power probably chopped the earth connection as well.

Being able to synchronise with the grid is a great feature, since you can support the house load without fear of overloading the V2L system, and even make money exporting to the grid at times of very high demand. Usually that would require the car to be V2G capable, but yes if an efficient way could be found to feed DC from the car to the house inverter, then in many cases the house inverter could do the synchronisation.
I am not particularly interested to use the car as an off-grid emergency backup supply - we have only had only 2 or 3 (usually brief) power outages in our area in the past 30 years. However, being able to use the 64kWh battery of the car to power the house is appealing as a very efficient and economic alternative to buying a separate house battery.
 
However, being able to use the 64kWh battery of the car to power the house is appealing as a very efficient and economic alternative to buying a separate house battery.
Without an expensive dedicated bidirectional controller, it won't be particularly practical.

At the moment such controllers cost about as much as a dedicated home battery anyway (not to mention would require approval for grid connection, and most power distribution companies would not have such approval processes/requirements in place as yet).
 
A bi-directional charger would be useful but is currently not economically justifiable. The solution is to manually switch between the charging cable (overnight charging) and the discharging cable.
 
Whenever I need it - then the grid or solar powers the house.
The solution is to manually switch between the charging cable (overnight charging) and the discharging cable.
I guess I'm not following your plan. Help me understand what I'm missing.

If you have solar, then the car is not required for discharging during the day. Unless you have some unusual tariff structure where excess solar PV exports are worth a lot more than self-consuming it and offsetting imports from the grid?

Which means your discharge window is at night, but that's right when you plan to be charging.

Do you mean using the car as the energy supply for the (approximate) period between sundown and bed time, with charging to occur while sleeping?

I dunno, the constant plugging and unplugging of the car's charge/discharge adapters along with the transfer switch cutover and brief loss of power to electronics in the house each time you swap from one supply to the next doesn't seem particularly practical to me. An ATS would be quicker (it's what my off-grid inverter does) but that's adding extra cost. I rarely use our manual transfer switch, mainly for taking the off-grid system off-line if I need to (e.g. for maintenance or upgrades).

And I have to wonder whether the car's onboard inverter is designed for such regular and potentially heavy use?
 
I guess I'm not following your plan. Help me understand what I'm missing.

If you have solar, then the car is not required for discharging during the day. Unless you have some unusual tariff structure where excess solar PV exports are worth a lot more than self-consuming it and offsetting imports from the grid?

Which means your discharge window is at night, but that's right when you plan to be charging.

Do you mean using the car as the energy supply for the (approximate) period between sundown and bed time, with charging to occur while sleeping?

I dunno, the constant plugging and unplugging of the car's charge/discharge adapters along with the transfer switch cutover and brief loss of power to electronics in the house each time you swap from one supply to the next doesn't seem particularly practical to me. An ATS would be quicker (it's what my off-grid inverter does) but that's adding extra cost. I rarely use our manual transfer switch, mainly for taking the off-grid system off-line if I need to (e.g. for maintenance or upgrades).

And I have to wonder whether the car's onboard inverter is designed for such regular and potentially heavy use?
My main usage will be to power a heat pump, where the main demand is in the wintertime when the power I get from my 3kW solar panels is often <<1kW. Re-charging the car batteries will be overnight, when cheaper grid power, which will also be powering the heat pump. I might expect to use 8-10 kWh for the heat pump on a cold day (a COP of 3-4 provides 25-40 kWh of heat energy). I tend to use the car only 1-2 short trips a day, so most of the time it can be supplying the home.

With regard the car, it is at least designed to charge the EV batteries for up to 9 hours at 7kW. For someone who drives their car to work, say 100 miles return trip Mon-Fri, they would be charging for 4-5 hours every night. I think it extremely rare that I need to draw as much as 7kW for more than a couple of hours in any period. I think the vehicle battery system is well able to cope with the demands of my home requirements.

My ideal setup would allow me to use the V2L output in an on-grid configuration, but to address both earthing problems and lack of synchronisation with the grid frequency by using a dc input of a hybrid inverter to generate grid-synchronised AC output. To do this the car's V2L output needs to be converted to DC - slightly wasteful in efficiency terms, but available immediately. If V2H or V2G capability starts to be made available in future EV's there would be no certainty the existing EV's could be easily modified to deliver either of these. The proliferation of V2L in more recently introduced car models suggest that there would be wide interest in such a capability.
 
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