V2L Test. 7kW output...

[tsedge]

Forth hand wash and just noticed a hole cut in nearside of front plastic grill, 4 grooves in from right. Any ideas?

Here you go.

It is a feature. Speculation is some kind of air sensor but looks weird for that.

 

[charlie bravo]

No it works fine with the car locked and the ignition off. and yes the V2L cable is locked to the car.

I have a V2L (Type 2 Cables that goes to a Junction Box on the front of the house, that is wired back to the Breker switch by the consumer unit with 6mm armoured cable)

I can remove the V2L cable with the car locked, but have to unlock car then lock and unlock it then put charge cable in and lock to charge for the morning

 

[Lovemyev]

I do have some general concerns regarding the use of the V2L capabilities, buy then adapting it to power the home electrics.
Please don’t think for one second here, that am I criticising the time / work / skills and effort of the people that has gone into making this a workable option.
But that said, I do have a real concern here that if somebody without the necessary skill sets, attempts to make this work and gets it wrong, then the damage caused to either the car / house electrics or even themselves is very real !.
Unless you are very very experienced, then honestly, I would simply just use the V2L feature in the manor it was intended.
Having all that stored energy sitting on the drive, then makes it very tempting prospect to tap in and harness that energy to run your home.
I totally get that !.
Just to be clear, I am not knocking the use of a V2L cable, in fact I have one myself !.
I think it’s a really great feature to have.
I have been watching this thread with great interest and am fairly experienced in electrics, but really I do have genuine concerns that somebody with less experience will try to power their home(s) via the V2L cable and get it badly wrong !.
This level of electrical work should only be carried out by qualified professionals that fully understands how to achieve this type of adaption.
No two house are even going to be the same and this is where it can get a bit difficult.
This is not a DIY process here folks and if carried out incorrectly, can be fatal !.
I ask myself this question, if somebody was injured very badly or worse, as a result of a failed attempt to hack into they home electrics, could we see the V2L option be removed from EV’s ???.
I really applause the skills of the people who have made this adaption work in practice.
“If you don’t know, then don’t give it go” would be my best advice.
A little knowledge is dangerous.

 

[Mg4forluxury]

I did manage to connect the V2l to my configuration , like Tom's man shad. I only use a ATS instead of a normal handswitch. It is working successful. The MG4 and the separate part of my home system has no problem with this setup and operate correctly.

 

[charlie bravo]

It is a feature. Speculation is some kind of air sensor but looks weird for that.

Mine is the same, probably is a feature

I did manage to connect the V2l to my configuration , like Tom's man shad. I only use a ATS instead of a normal handswitch. It is working successful. The MG4 and the separate part of my home system has no problem with this setup and operate correctly.

Very interested please explain What is the ATS, and what part of your home system. Have you installed a new ring main for sockets?

 

[KH11]

if connecting the MG to an N bound distribution system is not a problem for the MG, then all PCB and CB in a TT system will work normally. What should be the risk?
The bounded N of the grid can easily be replaced with a PE bounded N coming from the EV v2L connection, the same way a home battery back up system is set up.
I do not have an MG yet and can not test it. I have lived in a home without PE in the sockets and without PCB for decades and the grid was TT. Never had any problems. Now I have a new distribution panel with PCB because I have installed Solar panels and have a DYE all in one hybrid inverter, wihch makes it possible to connect any energy source, AC or DC. if the grid fails my solar panels still will pwr my home.
If I buy an EV for sure it will be one having V2L

Forth hand wash and just noticed a hole cut in nearside of front plastic grill, 4 grooves in from right. Any ideas?

Here you go.

I was talking to a lady yesterday who had an orange trophy in the same car park as I was parked whilst having a Costa. Prior to that she was already parked and at the time I didn’t know the owner was in Costa. But I had a good look round her car and it’s got the same appearance. So I assume it must be on all of them.

 

[Tig170]

I do have some general concerns regarding the use of the V2L capabilities, buy then adapting it to power the home electrics.
Please don’t think for one second here, that am I criticising the time / work / skills and effort of the people that has gone into making this a workable option.
But that said, I do have a real concern here that if somebody without the necessary skill sets, attempts to make this work and gets it wrong, then the damage caused to either the car / house electrics or even themselves is very real !.
Unless you are very very experienced, then honestly, I would simply just use the V2L feature in the manor it was intended.
Having all that stored energy sitting on the drive, then makes it very tempting prospect to tap in and harness that energy to run your home.
I totally get that !.
Just to be clear, I am not knocking the use of a V2L cable, in fact I have one myself !.
I think it’s a really great feature to have.
I have been watching this thread with great interest and am fairly experienced in electrics, but really I do have genuine concerns that somebody with less experience will try to power their home(s) via the V2L cable and get it badly wrong !.
This level of electrical work should only be carried out by qualified professionals that fully understands how to achieve this type of adaption.
No two house are even going to be the same and this is where it can get a bit difficult.
This is not a DIY process here folks and if carried out incorrectly, can be fatal !.
I ask myself this question, if somebody was injured very badly or worse, as a result of a failed attempt to hack into they home electrics, could we see the V2L option be removed from EV’s ???.
I really applause the skills of the people who have made this adaption work in practice.
“If you don’t know, then don’t give it go” would be my best advice.
A little knowledge is dangerous.

Have a look at:

 

[Lovemyev]

Have a look at:

Thanks for uploading the video, it was a very entertaining and very interesting !.
The people doing that install where very skilled and knowledgable.
Shame Jim did not have an EV to use up any excess power he made in the summer.
My concerns for less qualified people using V2L cables from their EV's to then patch into their house wiring systems remain the same though.

 

[Mg4forluxury]

Yes as said our Grid goes into a 100amp isolator switch before the consumer unit

the Grid goes to P1 and the Car to P2 with P0 in the middle being all off

So runs from grid normally, to run from car plug in V2L lead, turn switch to P2 via P0 Grid goes off and house is islanded and the car takes on the supply.

Cannot output to grid from car as is issolated from grid by switch.

We also are both in old Pre 1930s houses with proper earth rods,

Switchbox

View attachment 12838

Hi,
I've posted my installation in this thread before, but got a lot of headwinds regarding security. Still, I remain interested in your setup and have (like Tomn's Man shed") also fully (isolated) integrated into my home installation. It also works fine, but for me the question remains unanswered regarding the risks you run with regard to the "earth" (yellow/green wire).
After all, the MG is not connected to "earth" and is on "4 car tires to be ungrounded". Island grounding ???
So I wonder if the "ground wire" of the MG can be connected to the ground of the home installation without any problem.
Can't you just use the "N" neutral and the "L" ife wire?

In other words. Is it a problem to simply keep the connected earthed wall sockets connected to the earthing of the house installation?

The MG has no problems discharging through the MG's V2L.
I use an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) between the MG (V2L) and the GRID. This switches very quickly between the GRID and the MG, so that the power supply is hardly interrupted.

 

[Tig170]

looks good (I have a similar VE system) - i just had the DNO to install the earth (TNS/TNCS?) - outside on a new pole in the garden, nevertheless we have doubled up to approve the earth for our system.

 

[Mg4forluxury]

Hi,
I've posted my installation in this thread before, but got a lot of headwinds regarding security. Still, I remain interested in your setup and have (like Tomn's Man shed") also fully (isolated) integrated into my home installation. It also works fine, but for me the question remains unanswered regarding the risks you run with regard to the "earth" (yellow/green wire).
After all, the MG is not connected to "earth" and is on "4 car tires to be ungrounded". Island grounding ???
So I wonder if the "ground wire" of the MG can be connected to the ground of the home installation without any problem.
Can't you just use the "N" neutral and the "L" ife wire?

In other words. Is it a problem to simply keep the connected earthed wall sockets connected to the earthing of the house installation?

The MG has no problems discharging through the MG's V2L.
I use an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) between the MG (V2L) and the GRID. This switches very quickly between the GRID and the MG, so that the power supply is hardly interrupted.

looks good (I have a similar VE system) - i just had the DNO to install the earth (TNS/TNCS?) - outside on a new pole in the garden, nevertheless we have doubled up to approve the earth for our system.

Sorry for asking. Can you help me out to explain what you mean with "DNO" ? I am a newbie in terms If I understand well you did not connect the earth wire of the MG4 to the central earth of the house installation ? Did you connect the earth wire (green/yellow) to a new (separate) pole in the garden ? So....If I understand it correct. You did not connect the earth wire of the MG4 to the central earth of the house installation as I showed in my picture ? (hardwired 1 to 1 )

 

[Lovemyev]

Sorry for asking. Can you help me out to explain what you mean with "DNO"

@Tig170 here is a good case in point.
Hoping to SAFELY integrate the battery pack in their car, via a V2L cable and hacking this into their home electrics and then asking for help with regards to understanding what the phase DNO means ?.
DNO is your “District Network Operator” the people who bring a supply to your address basically.
My concerns are justly justified by this type of request surly ??.
For the folks who 100% fully understand how this achieved, then great !.
But I am really worry about passing this information down the line and something goes badly wrong here.
There are liability issues involved here that should be seriously considered here.
A disclaimer on advice given is the absolute very minimum warning that should be given, when offering advise when working at this level of risk folks.

 

[Mg4forluxury]

Thank you for your "justified" comment". Nevertheless, hopefully my question shows that it is not entirely unjustified to ask these questions. There are many users who simply do NOT do this and follow the videos on the internet to reach such a level. One solution For our home it was easy to isolate all "connected" WCDs from the GRID.
In our situation, only the lighting (ungrounded) and two grounded wall sockets are switched to the V2L solution.
When switching, this is exactly the situation you and "Tom's man shed" describe with a two-way switch and is comparable to explaining a V2L socket between the MG and the connected users.
I didn't find this solution really "safe". In my case, a maximum of 2Kw is consumed on the V2L group. This is also additionally secured.
My question was just about the grounding. No one talks about this and precisely for that reason (no risks) I was looking for answers.
Maybe my images are a bit too simple, but if I don't post them, many questions will follow.
I hope I can get a constructive answer.
Precisely because your comment also mentions: 'Quote'
"Me and my neighbor have successfully connected our MG V2L to our 1935 house installation"
This also suggests that this should be possible with the V2L solution.
It would therefore help to share a little more background information.
Anyway, thanks and I share the concerns.

I am aware that it is very dangerous to connect a external power source , "like a generator" directly to the Main Power Supply of the DNO. It call's a widow maker situation. That is why I use a "generator setup" with a ATS. So in that situation it is impossible to connect de V2L directly to the house distribution wiring and "fully isolate" the main GRID.
So if I understand it well it is better to switch also the earth wire, coming from the MG to the two earthed WCD's so that the earth (TNS/TNCS?) of the house is completely separated from the V2L of the MG.

 

[PremierscfcEV]

This is super interesting. On a cost basis, the MG4 and MG5 are cheaper per kwh than most home storage batteries.
Would the MG5 (pre and post facelift) also have similar capability?

The pre facelift (FL) unfortunately not but the FL is V2L compatible so it would work similar to the FL ZS and MG4.

 

[DeMille]

In Belgium all home installations are TT systems ( Terra- Terra), which means the N is not bound to earth in the home distribution box and the N bound is made at the distribution transformer of the GRID. The home installation must have effective RCB and home earth may not be connected to N . I use an all in one solar inverter to connect a generator. All in one inverters have an internal bypass ( ats) and dry contacts to start the GEN and mine has dry contacts to make an N pound if in Island mode( off grid) This makes it possible to use generators which do not have internal N bound . Using such inverters one easily can connect V2L and provide an N to earth bound making the RCB stay active when in island mode. Such inverters automatic can provide an internal N bound for "in island or back up operation" in combination with TT GRID.
But many all in one inverters do not have dry contacts but do have a build in ATS to use grid power if batt or solar is not available. These are not suitable for to be used in TT earthing systems because PCB will not function if in island mode and in a home installation more than one consumer is connected. Adding a private N bound does connect your private N bound to the N of the neighbours if in bypass mode, using grid pwr, bringing the faults of your neighbours to your home. Using such inverters in TT systems is only possible if the AC IN is only used for a generator or V2L and not for GRID , and by giving the inverter its own N bound. An other solution is separated "off" grid and "on" grid opration using a transfer switch for connecting the all in one" inverter or grid to pwr the home. This way the V2L connection should have its own N to earth bound. In TT grid systems the N bound should be made using the N IN connection of the ATS or MTS used for V2L or GEN, never the N OUT connection of the ATS or MTS.

 

[DeMille]

Thank you for your "justified" comment". Nevertheless, hopefully my question shows that it is not entirely unjustified to ask these questions. There are many users who simply do NOT do this and follow the videos on the internet to reach such a level. One solution For our home it was easy to isolate all "connected" WCDs from the GRID.
In our situation, only the lighting (ungrounded) and two grounded wall sockets are switched to the V2L solution.
When switching, this is exactly the situation you and "Tom's man shed" describe with a two-way switch and is comparable to explaining a V2L socket between the MG and the connected users.
I didn't find this solution really "safe". In my case, a maximum of 2Kw is consumed on the V2L group. This is also additionally secured.
My question was just about the grounding. No one talks about this and precisely for that reason (no risks) I was looking for answers.
Maybe my images are a bit too simple, but if I don't post them, many questions will follow.
I hope I can get a constructive answer.
Precisely because your comment also mentions: 'Quote'
"Me and my neighbor have successfully connected our MG V2L to our 1935 house installation"
This also suggests that this should be possible with the V2L solution.
It would therefore help to share a little more background information.
Anyway, thanks and I share the concerns.

I am aware that it is very dangerous to connect a external power source , "like a generator" directly to the Main Power Supply of the DNO. It call's a widow maker situation. That is why I use a "generator setup" with a ATS. So in that situation it is impossible to connect de V2L directly to the house distribution wiring and "fully isolate" the main GRID.
So if I understand it well it is better to switch also the earth wire, coming from the MG to the two earthed WCD's so that the earth (TNS/TNCS?) of the house is completely separated from the V2L of the MG.

Earth wire coming from the MG? What is its normal purpose in a floating setup? This wire probably can be used to earth the MG internal inverter? Is this wire also providing an N bound if it is connected to earth? For this one should check if V2L N and PE are connected or not. I do not think this is the case as its normal use does not need this, but it is important to know. For a V2L CB to trip having a short circuit the car must have an earth, the same way as if a generator is used to pwr a device.
The MG provides pwr and it is a floating system. As it is it can be used safely but only if only one consuming item is connected. if two separate consuming items are connected a fault in one item may effect the user of the other item without the V2L C/B will trip.
My opinion one can add an N bound to V2l N using an other earth pin and by connecting the ATS N IN connection for V2L. But before I would check if V2L N wire is not bound if the MG v2L earth wire is connected to the earth rod. For normal V2L use, to pwr one double isolated device, this earth wire is not connected to earth.

 

[Rolfe]

I know this is a very simple question but if one has one of these cheapo VtL three pin adapter plugs mentioned above, will that take an extension lead with four sockets on it to allow more than one appliance to be run at once?

 

[DeMille]

I know this is a very simple question but if one has one of these cheapo VtL three pin adapter plugs mentioned above, will that take an extension lead with four sockets on it to allow more than one appliance to be run at once?

V2L is a floating system, which means there is no protection. Only double isolated electrical devices may be connencted. Such devices have no earth wire. If you connect 4 devices and there is an isolation fault in one device this may have effect on all connected devices and its users. As far as I know there is no law preventing the use of more than one appliance the same time.

 

[Rolfe]

Thank you for that.

 

[GlasWolf]

While researching charge points I came across this. Indra are currently trialling a vehicle-to-home unit that will intelligently use your EV battery for domestic energy storage and supply. The trial runs until 2024 so it'll be a while before it's available.

Vehicle To Home (V2H) Bidirectional Chargers | INDRA

INDRA is one of the fastest-growing EV charger companies in the UK. We manufacture & install smart chargers for commercial locations & home charging points.

www.indra.co.uk