Vehicle to Load (V2L) - Any Information or First Hand Experiences?

Thank you Michael, I am only hoping to use this for providing power for a few lights plus perhaps to the gas boiler should the mains fail.
AliExpress don't have part numbers, the product name: Two-way charger electric car extension socket power strip Vehicle to Load. Bidirectional charge adaptor V2L I shall try to attach a photo. Trying to return this item to AliExpress is proving a nightmare, do you think I should open the plug to see if there is a resistor fitted ?
 

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Thank you Michael, your offer is gratefully accepted, my email address is [email protected].
Please let me have your address for me to send it to you, with a donation for the return of the same.
 
For the vast majority of things that you plug into a 16Amp extension lead, I don’t think you will have a problem.
Yes you are absolutely right, but just for safety... one of the first things people want to plug in during a power cut is a fridge or freezer, which must be, and are, earthed through the plug. if you do that with these V2L cables you have no earth. Yes of course everything will probably be ok. I just wanted to mention it.
 
Perhaps slightly more on topic ;) I had my first experience of VTL yesterday.

I have a 2022 LR Trophy about 3 months old and bought a VTL cable from evcables.co.uk when I bought the car. I hadn't used it but yesterday having suffered several power cuts due to the thunderstorms I thought I'd give it a go. I plugged it in and ran the cable through my front door letterbox then via an extension cable into the kitchen. Hardly a permanent solution but good enough for a trial. Turned the car on, started the discharge then turned the car off and locked it. Power was still being supplied and I managed to use it to cook my dinner (in a 1.75kw Ninja Air Fryer if you're interested :D).

I'd read about how it would drain the 12v battery in this configuration so I left the cable plugged in to see what would happen (without actually taking any power). All seemed OK.

This morning (as might be expected I suppose) everything went tits up.

Went to the car only to find it wouldn't unlock. Found out how to unlock it manually and tried to start it. Nothing! Checked the battery voltage, 9v o_O This was not good. Put the battery charger on and left it charging for an hour or so. This time the car powered up but the brake pedal didn't want to move and the dash lit up with multiple warnings. It did eventually let me move off gingerly but the brake had no servo assistance at all. So having moved it back up the drive I tried the 10mm spanner trick but to no avail. Time to call out the AA.

I was pleasantly surprised with the service and he turned up an hour later only to be somewhat surprised it was an electric car. Anyway I took him through what had happened and mentioned the various discussions on this forum. He plugged in his computer which as I expected wouldn't recognise the car. He typed in the VIN and had to select the 2020 version as my car was too new. The auto diagnostics wouldn't work so he worked through several options until he eventually found an error message for a low 12v battery in the diagnostics section. He cleared that error and lo and behold the car was back in action.

Definitely an education for both of us and hopefully him having reported how to rectify the error through their system, the AA may be in a better position to help others in the future. I've also learnt the pitfalls of VTL (and letting the 12v battery get too low) but I'm reassured that if used properly the system works well.
 
I'd read about how it would drain the 12v battery in this configuration so I left the cable plugged in to see what would happen (without actually taking any power). All seemed OK.
Was the 12v battery ok at this stage? or don't know
 
It was fine for at least a couple of hours, around 14v. It was leaving it overnight was the problem.
 
It was fine for at least a couple of hours, around 14v. It was leaving it overnight was the problem.
From testing I have done, 3 or 4 hours with the car powered down and V2L on will be fine. There is 2 to 3Amp drain on the 12V battery when V2L is enabled - it doesn’t matter if you are pulling power of the V2L connector.

If you occasional quiz the car using the iSMART App it will top up the 12V battery and allow its continued use. Of course doing that if you are asleep is difficult.

If the car is in the READY state then there is not an issue with the 12V battery while using V2L.
 
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I have been watching this thread with great interest since it began, and I recall a short while ago reading somewhere, about possibly using a trickle type battery charger connected to the 12volt from the V2L supply, to top up the 12volt as well as whatever you are using on the V2L, but I have Not noticed any more post about that does any one know any more about it or as anyone tried it.

One other thing is also going around in my head is with regard to the MG4, which is also fitted with V2L but as with no button to switch the car on or off how can that be left in a ready mode has when you get it off the vehicle it shuts down and restarts We you get back in with the key
Les
 
I have been watching this thread with great interest since it began, and I recall a short while ago reading somewhere, about possibly using a trickle type battery charger connected to the 12volt from the V2L supply, to top up the 12volt as well as whatever you are using on the V2L, but I have Not noticed any more post about that does any one know any more about it or as anyone tried it.

What with holidays, and work, I haven’t got around to doing this yet. I will have a go over the weekend and report back findings.
 
I have been watching this thread with great interest since it began, and I recall a short while ago reading somewhere, about possibly using a trickle type battery charger connected to the 12volt from the V2L supply, to top up the 12volt as well as whatever you are using on the V2L, but I have Not noticed any more post about that does any one know any more about it or as anyone tried it.
I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work as you say, however, doing a bit of maths (hurts) the drain from a 12v car battery to take it down to 9v in just 3 -4 hours (another thread) is actually quite a lot. So maybe NOT a trickle charger, but a proper battery charger might be needed. This is all getting a bit convoluted.....
 
the drain from a 12v car battery to take it down to 9v in just 3 -4 hours (another thread)
Actually overnight (say around 12 hours), after 3-4 hours it was still OK. Even so, I would agree it's getting complicated and although the system works it could be made much easier to use.
 
Actually overnight (say around 12 hours), after 3-4 hours it was still OK. Even so, I would agree it's getting complicated and although the system works it could be made much easier to use.
Oh Ok, my mistake, but that still means it's using something like 4-5A to sit there. It's not like the car doesn't have its own 12v charger. It would make sense for it to be working while V2L is plugged in.
 
One thing I would suggest, I hope you don't mind, Be careful using these as you will be using un-earthed mains voltage.

Hello,

Some useful information ; i used a socket tester on my V2L output and the "RCD test" button cut off vehicule onduler. So it seems to be many more protections than expected.
(Post here : post)
 
Hello,

Some useful information ; i used a socket tester on my V2L output and the "RCD test" button cut off vehicule onduler. So it seems to be many more protections than expected.
(Post here : post)
That's good news, how do you reset it? turn the car off and on? or disable the V2L?
 
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