Auto lights always coming on ? Hillbilly hack.

Is it unique to the mg4 to have the sensor in the dash? My Leon phev has the light sensor in the windscreen camera/rain sensor array and it works flawlessly.
 
I have no idea where the sensor was in my Golf, it just worked.

I am happy to report, however, that if you rip that sensor cover off the MG4's, it behaves perfectly. I did an early evening drive in bright sunshine this evening (with a temporary transparent dust cover taped over the sensor) and it showed no sign of its previous game of turning the lights on every time I drove through the shadow of a tree. Then when I got back to the car from the cinema at about ten, still daylight but about ten minutes after official lighting-up time, the lights came on fine.
 
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I managed to get my sensor cover off without damaging it, so if there is an update it can go back on. Meanwhile CrawfyP has sent me a spare one of his 3D printed ones so hopefully I'll get to try that next week.
 
You’ll get a circular bit of perspex for a couple of pounds on eBay that would probably press fit into that hole you’ve made…

Item number 282225172663 is just one example, you can request a particular size.
If you need any circles or other shapes, I have a laser cutter and happy to cut clear (or translucent) acrylic to your requirement. Cost of postage and Jiffy bag only.
 
Is it unique to the mg4 to have the sensor in the dash? My Leon phev has the light sensor in the windscreen camera/rain sensor array and it works flawlessly.
My Ford Focus had the light sensor in the same place as the MG4 and it worked OK. The software just needs a value changing but whether MG will ever do that....?
 
If you need any circles or other shapes, I have a laser cutter and happy to cut clear (or translucent) acrylic to your requirement. Cost of postage and Jiffy bag only.

The hole is quite a specific shape. However my impression from putting a bit of polythene over the sensor as a temporary fix is that the sensor sits slightly proud of the level of the dashboard itself, and that any solution that doesn't account for this is going to run into trouble fitting. The beauty of the 3D printed versions is that they mimic the shape of the original cover and so fit above the level of the sensor itself.

My Ford Focus had the light sensor in the same place as the MG4 and it worked OK. The software just needs a value changing but whether MG will ever do that....?

If they can't be bothered changing the software (and let's face it, there are half a dozen things I'd rather see them sort in the software before this one), a quick redesign of the sensor cover is all they need.

At least this fix we've devised is a real fix, permanent, and not a tedious work-round.
 
The hole is quite a specific shape. However my impression from putting a bit of polythene over the sensor as a temporary fix is that the sensor sits slightly proud of the level of the dashboard itself, and that any solution that doesn't account for this is going to run into trouble fitting. The beauty of the 3D printed versions is that they mimic the shape of the original cover and so fit above the level of the sensor itself.
If someone would like to send me a cardboard template of the removed cover base, I can make a recessed cover that will clip in to the dashboard. If anyone's interested that is :) it doesnt matter to me, I dont have an MG4.

If they can't be bothered changing the software (and let's face it, there are half a dozen things I'd rather see them sort in the software before this one), a quick redesign of the sensor cover is all they need.

At least this fix we've devised is a real fix, permanent, and not a tedious work-round.
 
There are already 3D printing files for a range of replacement sensor covers, all of which seem to work very well.

Simply taking the damn cover off works fine, there's just a concern that leaving the sensor open to the dust might be a bad idea in the long run.
 
Near the beginning of the thread there is a link to a 3D print hobby site where you can download the files to print six (I think) different versions of the replacement cover. It costs about 88p.

Later in the thread there are suggestions and links for companies who provide 3D printing services and can produce the physical objects. A point to bear in mind is that the cover is in a position that will get a lot of heat and light, and the choice of a high-grade material that will resist this is crucial. Someone mentioned getting something printed in a nylon compound that would do the job.
 
What's most annoying to me is not so much the level of light that triggers it, but how quickly it reacts to shadow. It needs to be slower to react.
On my ZS it took a good 7 or 8 seconds going into low light before the lights came on, meaning if I went under a bridge there was no reaction, which is as it should be.
There is a railway bridge near where I live with a side road just the other side of it, which difficult to get out of, so people often flash to let cars out. As I pass under this bridge the 4 puts the headlights on, which could easily be mistaken for a flash to give way to the cars coming out of the side road, resulting in them pulling out in front of me. The ZS never put the lights on there.
 
I seem to remember Bowfer saying, either in this thread or a related one, that nobody would think you were flashing them as you drove down an avenue of trees, because of this delay. Except, I agree with you, I don't think there is a delay with the MG4, and it does flash. I think that's part of the problem (although not all of it.)

I have not tried going through a tunnel without the standard sensor cover, but I noticed that when my car was parked in my dark garage without the sensor cover on at all, and the nose literally inches from the threshhold and bright sunshine, the lights were on. This give me confidence that tunnels are likely to be OK.

I only took the original cover off a few days ago, and all I have observed since is that when a journey has started as little as five or ten minutes after advertised sunset time (that is, lighting-up time), the lights have defaulted to "on" and stayed there, but they have not come on at all in normal daylight conditions. Nobody else who has done this has reported any annoying behaviour, and I feel reasonably confident that the fix solves the problem.
 
and I feel reasonably confident that the fix solves the problem

Behaviour with mine fitted is almost perfect. Before, the lights were constantly on and off for shadows and approaching dusk also on and off depending on clouds and shadows. Particularly annoying using carplay maps for Nav at that time as it would repeatedly switch from light to dark even though I have dark mode selected. Much better now, nearly perfect.

The only criticism of the 3d printed solution, if you want them see this Post for details, was one occasion when it was thundery and overcast, I noticed everyones lights switching on but not mine but only had that happen once. I do need to sort out some sort of film to put inside the printed cover to stop the dust. My thinking is that a slightly opaque or lightly tinted material (obviously not as dark as OEM) would work well. I’m still searching for said material!

Clearly the problem could be solved in an instant with a software update, but, MG.
 
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Printed I’m told in “Nylon PA12 MJF“ which means nothing to me. I checked before ordering and the printers said this material should stand up to being in sunlight just fine so you should be fine for those 2 days this year 😬
That material will be perfect. MJF means it was printed using a Multi Jet Fusion machine, so great quality and strength. Nylon will have similar properties to ABS or PETG plastic
 

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