Charge Flap snapped off - ZS EV Trophy

It is technically possible to plastic solder it..... but still need to take bumper off :(
it depends if you have the same plastic as diff plastics do not mix ie ppe and abs the super glue and bicarb works put super glue on and put bicarb ontop then re do again
 
Has anyone attempted a repair or removal and strengthening of the door yet?
I bought a portable hot glue gun last week (would have to do this on the street) but due to the weather conditions have not yet even looked to see how the door can be removed, hopefully without having to remove the whole front.
 
Has anyone attempted a repair or removal and strengthening of the door yet?
I bought a portable hot glue gun last week (would have to do this on the street) but due to the weather conditions have not yet even looked to see how the door can be removed, hopefully without having to remove the whole front.
Unfortunately the bumper will have to come off. Just paid my dealer to take off and put on the bumper about £350
 
Interesting solution for protecting the charge port door (you have to watch to the end or you can skip to 7.50 to see his solution. By the way its not an MG ZS EV but a VW ID4.
 
Interesting solution for protecting the charge port door (you have to watch to the end or you can skip to 7.50 to see his solution. By the way its not an MG ZS EV but a VW ID4.


The redneck solution to the charge flap breakage problem. As supplied by Bubbaexpress
 

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If anyone has the broken hinge assembly, I can get it scanned (almost FOC) and make a 3d replacement at work.
I think the thing with 3d printing it is that it it will almost certainly be weaker than the original part. Even with perfect layer adhesion, the original injection molding will be stronger. If the original part design had weak spots it's going to be worse as a 3d printed part.
 
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Next over the air update, pre-heat the charge flap to soften the plastic hinge. :unsure:
 
I think the thing with 3d printing it is that it it will almost certainly be weaker than the original part. Even with perfect layer adhesion, the original injection molding will be stronger. If the original part design had weak spots it's going to be worse as a 3d printed part.
I have been 3d print for 3 yrs no and if the part is designed and printed correctly (speed, temperature, type of filament) they can be as strong or stronger than the original part.

This youtuber does extensive strength testing.
 
I have been 3d print for 3 yrs no and if the part is designed and printed correctly (speed, temperature, type of filament) they can be as strong or stronger than the original part.

This youtuber does extensive strength testing.

There are a lot of caveats to that, part orientation, materials, design etc.

I think without redesigned the arm and adding some inherit stiffness to it, it will take time and effort to get close to the strength of the injection moulded part. Likely starting with replacing the triangle voids with 100% infill...

Another thing to think about is that this part is going to be subject to the elements and direct sun, which pretty much rules out PLA. Something like ASA is probably closer to the original, but you'll need a decent setup to get ASA prints working well.

It would be interesting to be proved wrong though, and a 3D printed part that lasted years as a replacement to the original would be good to see.
 
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It would be absolutely fantastic if somebody could print one off and then test it's strength ?.
If it was made of a solid construction, rather that rear honey comb hatching design on the rear, it has too be MUCH stronger than the original OEM part surely 🤷‍♂️ ?.
I don't have either the know how or equipment to give it a go TBH - Sorry.
There must be a drink in this here, for some kind member in producing these ?.
The OEM price for a new door are not that over spiteful, but the labour charges to replace the flap are.
Especially when you consider this could well be a annual expense.
You would expect this to be covered by the warranty in the first 12 months regardless.
Trim items are normally covered for 12 months at least.
If enough of these where replaced under warranty and the labour costs became a "red flag" to MG then the quality / strength of this item would soon get improved I am sure.
 
Question is though..

The weakest link is what fails.

If this part is strengthened, what part will then be the weakest link, and will that part be even more expensive, and harder to source / change.

Maybe this part was made weak on purpose to protect something more valuable and harder to replace ?

Just a thought
 
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