Let’s see who gets rattled - charging details

It’s the update that changed mine in some way as it was always about 178 miles on a full charge prior to the update...
 
The GOM has changed for 2/4 users in this thread. If it was showing its WLTP range with full charge I would be happy.

The car knows your driving behaviour intimately thanks to the trip computer. It’s obvious my 216 estimate is wishful, and if we average my miles kWh hours over last 400 miles it is 4.0.

the eZS is making no forward predictions whatsoever. For me It assumes 5.0 and that is off by a LOT.

edit: @KasEV I would love you to explain the intricacies of the GOM if you can back it up with a source. I’m sorry but I don’t take anecdotal evidence as gospel.

edit2: formula seems to be 42kWh x (5) = 210 miles estimate.
+10 miles added for eco = 220.
-20 if sport is selected. = 190.
-25 miles if hvac on = 185
-45 miles sport + hvac = 165 mile estimate.
This seems black and white because GOM changes immediately when any of above are active. When your real world driving is (4) mkWh we see the comical discrepancies.


Well......
I do not think most members are really bothered about the intricacies of GOM.
All I guess members want to know is that GOM does what it is manufactured to do which is as much as practically possible to predict an estimated range.
Quite strange that without proper knowledge or understanding some start to propagate their own theories, distort their personal experiences and use baseless assumptions to explain everything.
"Claiming the GOM has a rigid fixed formula and claiming the GOM in one individual car has made a wrong assumption of Miles per kWh and hence calculating an excessive range plus HVAC does not affect range......... Just bunkers"
To make such claims clearly is showing a complete lack of knowledge and understanding of GOM. Not sure if any sources to justify these claims are being offered.
But I am being ask to justify very word I say. Interesting.......
Anyway Folks there is much to read about anything and everything these days on the Web so please do not take my word for it check things out for yourself.
The basics about GOM is
1. It predicts probable/estimated range of an EV assuming the EV will continue to be driven under the same conditions it was recently being driven.
2.The estimate of range depends on battery SOC, battery temperature/ambient temperature, driving style, topography / terrain and HVAC
3. The word recent in point 1 varies from brand to brand ranging from last 3 to 10mins driven to last 5 or 10 to 20miles.
4. The computation of correlation between distance against state of charge and range is a complex derivative and correlates to the vehicles EPA / WLTP data as extrapolated into the recent distance driven.
So range calculations are relatively accurate and automatically self-adjust as your drive along to ensure you have as accurate as possible estimate.
Please members do not let individuals without knowledge and understanding highjack our very good forum and start peddling baseless claims, explanations and theories.
I do not know everything about EVs but there are some things that I know and I am here seeking to learn and understand more and hope others with better knowledge will inform me. Where I do not know, I ask or research on the Web and pro sites.
I think it will be bad if one lets people spread wrong information no matter how harmless it may seem.
There are several sites on the Web with basic EV range and GOM explanations and a lot more about EVs. I will encourage you to all frequent such sites for knowledge about EVs. Drive EV is one of the sites which has good general knowledge about EVs.
 
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First of all assumption is the mother of all fluff ups so good luck reading the minds of members and gatekeeping their wants. Maybe let go and let them decide?

I’m talking theories as to why the GOM has changed for some people after the update. Being wrong by 40 miles on a mere 200 mile jaunt is significant. So this thread in particular was created to compare GOMs and swap notes.

A member without knowledge ruin your good forums? Is that a dig at me? Ad hominem? I’m just talking ideas and not trying to present them as fact, we need more data, more research into our eZS. And going by my post to reaction score ratio people seem to like what I post so I would argue I add value to the site. You on the other hand, I’m just going to say I find nothing of interest in your comments.

You’re trying to tell me my theories are wrong, ok So those assertions need backing up with sources. A generic article about how a GOM should work reveals nothing about the coding of our mg or why some cars are reporting 218 miles range.

I learned in uni that you can say what you like as long as you can back it up with relevant sources. I also don’t care about being wrong because that’s science. You test ideas and see what’s reproducible.

Your first point undermines and refutes your argument. If the GOM was predicting range based on same driving conditions there would be different estimates on full charge, there is not.

I have kids to wake up and get ready, real life starts again. I would be happy to discuss any of this further with anyone else but @KasEV. Please kas do not engage with me, I have nothing more to say.
 
First of all assumption is the mother of all fluff ups so good luck reading the minds of members and gatekeeping their wants. Maybe let go and let them decide?

I’m talking theories as to why the GOM has changed for some people after the update. Being wrong by 40 miles on a mere 200 mile jaunt is significant. So this thread in particular was created to compare GOMs and swap notes.

A member without knowledge ruin your good forums? Is that a dig at me? Ad hominem? I’m just talking ideas and not trying to present them as fact, we need more data, more research into our eZS. And going by my post to reaction score ratio people seem to like what I post so I would argue I add value to the site. You on the other hand, I’m just going to say I find nothing of interest in your comments.

You’re trying to tell me my theories are wrong, ok So those assertions need backing up with sources. A generic article about how a GOM should work reveals nothing about the coding of our mg or why some cars are reporting 218 miles range.

I learned in uni that you can say what you like as long as you can back it up with relevant sources. I also don’t care about being wrong because that’s science. You test ideas and see what’s reproducible.

Your first point undermines and refutes your argument. If the GOM was predicting range based on same driving conditions there would be different estimates on full charge, there is not.

I have kids to wake up and get ready, real life starts again. I would be happy to discuss any of this further with anyone else but @KasEV. Please kas do not engage with me, I have nothing more to say.
Just select to ignore hi and then you can’t see his posts or replies, it’s worked for me, happy days and a big ?
 
@Mark Holmes I can see how that one little change would make the site instantly better.

Im not too worried about the GOM I just know that unless my current driving is 5 mkWh with everything off then I’m not going to match estimated range.

like this morning on school run it was cold and I had everything on, over 10 miles my current mkWh was 2.9. I had one bar over half charge and estimated range was 126. I can guarantee that half a battery would only give 70 miles at that rate.

if the car displayed battery state of charge as a percentage it would be simple to just multiply that % by your current mkWh to give realistic range. No?
 
From my perspective I don’t pay to much attention to it now until it starts getting low to about 70 miles and then it seems much more honest with what’s being shown as expected range to what I can actually achieve.
 
@Mark Holmes I can see how that one little change would make the site instantly better.

Im not too worried about the GOM I just know that unless my current driving is 5 mkWh with everything off then I’m not going to match estimated range.

like this morning on school run it was cold and I had everything on, over 10 miles my current mkWh was 2.9. I had one bar over half charge and estimated range was 126. I can guarantee that half a battery would only give 70 miles at that rate.

if the car displayed battery state of charge as a percentage it would be simple to just multiply that % by your current mkWh to give realistic range. No?

On the battery level, you need to recalibrate as that last dash is worth 25% (10% when flashing) so the other ones as they drop are dropping by around 11%, so you were somewhere between 58-69% battery, taking four dashes as half (not having a percentage gauge and a non linear charge level indicator is my big bug bear that I'd like to see MG address in a software update to more accurately judge your charge level and range you can eek out, I used to always use percentage left in my old Leaf as that had a schizophrenic GOM).

Taken from the MG Owners Club FAQ from @Mike

Q What do the 8 bars around the lower part of the ‘fuel’ gauge mean?
A Here's the state of charge as per the 8 bar gauge:
8 : 91-100%
7 : 80-91%
6 : 69-80%
5 : 58-69%
4 : 47-58%
3 : 36-47%
2 : 25-36%
1 : <25% (HV battery light comes on)
HV battery light starts flashing at 10% and will warn about aggressive driving. It stops flashing and disappears at 5%.
The GoM turns to --- at 10 miles
 
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Hi Folks,
I am always happy to comment only on things I know about and learn about things I do not know about.
I think we jointly owe it to each other to correct when someone or the other is wrong about something we have a good understanding of.
As I said when it comes to GOM, I have a very good understanding of the tech so forgive me if I correct GOM related stuff.
I will encourage all members to use the various EV tech sites to update and inform themselves.
So far as your GOM is concerned if it is not behaving the way it is meant to behave please have it checked.
@shikoku14
This percentage chart is a very good estimation.
I use to think the absence of a proper non-linear percentage chart is another example of the poor tech in the ZS EV but now not sure.
Some reviewers believe a GOM to be more important than the % charge gauge.
The MG5EV has it and it seems MG opted to omit it in the ZS EV. I think reviewers in Asia at the time were indicating people wanted to know how far they could travel rather than if the battery was 30 or 40 percent. I guess MG may have a look at reviews again and add on a % state of charge in the 2021 version. Not sure it is better than GOM so if no space, MG may settle for GOM only.
 
I’ve worked out that my GOM uses a 4.7 multiplier at 50/75% SOC and a 4.9 multiplier nearer full charge.

For example, 1% of 42.5 = 0.425
50 x 0.425 = 21.25 kWh hours
21.25 x 4.7 = 99 miles GOM guess. See photo.
Turning on hvac or sport will drop estimate, how much is related to SOC.

this morning is I was averaging 2.9 mKWh over 10 miles. So..
62.5 x 0.425 = 26.5 kWh in my battery. (One line over half)
26.5 kwh x 2.9mKwh = 77 miles of realistic range at my current average.
Not the 126 miles the GOM was showing lol.

I can understand people defending the eZS GOM but maybe if theirs read 218 on full, they might understand the skepticism.
80D76762-CD9E-4A32-8928-DF786F831969.jpeg
 
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I’ve worked out that my GOM uses a 4.7 multiplier at 50/75% SOC and a 4.9 multiplier nearer full charge.

For example, 1% of 42.5 = 0.425
50 x 0.425 = 21.25 kWh hours
21.25 x 4.7 = 99 miles GOM guess. See photo.
Turning on hvac or sport will drop estimate, how much is related to SOC.

this morning is I was averaging 2.9 mKWh over 10 miles. So..
62.5 x 0.425 = 26.5 kWh in my battery. (One line over half)
26.5 kwh x 2.9mKwh = 77 miles of realistic range at my current average.
Not the 126 miles the GOM was showing lol.

I can understand people defending the eZS GOM but maybe if theirs read 218 on full, they might understand the skepticism.View attachment 529
I’ve also noted that the estimated mileage displayed on charging is always based on the normal drive settings too. Will increase if disconnected and put in ECO mode.
 
Exactly that’s why I’m sure they are dumb toggles not related to predictive estimated range.

admittedly the amount they increase or decrease changes depending on SOC. for example selecting eco mode at full charge gives +10, but gives +6 at 50% charge.

I don’t know why our GOMs are so out mark when others in this thread have normal estimates not affected by the update.
 
I know it’s strange, but to be honest I glad I’m not the only one....
I am going to ask at my 15k service (just under 10k already) for the updates to be installed again as it’s too much of a coincidence that it jumped up after the updates were applied.
I also know I have issues with a single door beep if I’m still in the car.
I know my main beam switch off doesn’t actually work and therefore there maybe some gremlins in the software...I will feedback once done, but in no rush as I can cope with the it at the moment.
A different question something I witnessed over the last few colder days, I keep getting the block camera symbol coming up and it takes time to clear, I hope it won’t always be like that when it’s colder and more prolonged...
 
I’ve worked out that my GOM uses a 4.7 multiplier at 50/75% SOC and a 4.9 multiplier nearer full charge.

For example, 1% of 42.5 = 0.425
50 x 0.425 = 21.25 kWh hours
21.25 x 4.7 = 99 miles GOM guess. See photo.
Turning on hvac or sport will drop estimate, how much is related to SOC.

this morning is I was averaging 2.9 mKWh over 10 miles. So..
62.5 x 0.425 = 26.5 kWh in my battery. (One line over half)
26.5 kwh x 2.9mKwh = 77 miles of realistic range at my current average.
Not the 126 miles the GOM was showing lol.

I can understand people defending the eZS GOM but maybe if theirs read 218 on full, they might understand the skepticism.View attachment 529

Hi members,
I will suggest you get your information about how GOM works from reputable tech sources.
I can say for sure that all these random meaningless calculations that are being proposed using personal guesses is definitely not how the GOM software is designed to work.
 
I don’t have any door beeps and my auto high beams work surprisingly well. Only thing I don’t like about auto high beam is they won’t dim for a car perpendicular to you say at a side road. Obviously it doesn’t know they’re there as it can’t see their lights. Saying that Auto high beam has been left on so far.

Is the camera at the top middle of the windscreen? I’ve not had that message yet, but it makes me wish we had the app with remote climate control. I had to go out and warm the car like a heathen this morning.
 
Yes in the top of the wind screen, not sure if the cold affected the lens inside as the outside glass was clear, once driving for about 45 mins it cleared, but it affects the lane control and road sign reading, it was just very annoying...
My doors used to horn three times and now it’s only once, and so it has improved, but being removed completely would be better. Again these little issues are why I feel the updates may not have been applied correctly or that the install process wasn’t as it should be and there’s a software glitch.
 
It is simple math you can’t argue with miles per kilowatt hour. The trip computer constantly measures distance traveled and how much power (kilowatts) it takes to travel that distance.

my average over 120 miles today was 4.0mkWh

you can not argue with the size of the usable battery. It is 42.5kWh. 1% of that is 0.425kWh

So 42.5kWh x 4.0mkWh = 170 miles range. This is close to WLTP test and a figure I would be happy to have.

There is no way I am getting over 216 miles on a full charge. Also my data shows that the GOM is constantly incorrect and does not reflect driving over time. This is so simple that the village idiot can almost understand it, well one can dream.
 
@Mark Holmes notice any missing messages?
I guess I know what you referring too, but no because if the click on the persons logo you can as I’ve done ignore them and you then don’t see them anyway....happy days
I relation to your maths I agree and therefore my average based on my stats is 42.5 x 4.4 = 187 miles per charge on average and so I’m doing good...
 
I meant there seems to be a day of deleted messages, remember I made a table with my data?
 
It is simple math you can’t argue with miles per kilowatt hour. The trip computer constantly measures distance traveled and how much power (kilowatts) it takes to travel that distance.

my average over 120 miles today was 4.0mkWh

you can not argue with the size of the usable battery. It is 42.5kWh. 1% of that is 0.425kWh

So 42.5kWh x 4.0mkWh = 170 miles range. This is close to WLTP test and a figure I would be happy to have.

There is no way I am getting over 216 miles on a full charge. Also my data shows that the GOM is constantly incorrect and does not reflect driving over time. This is so simple that the village idiot can almost understand it, well one can dream.
Hi members,
GOM was never designed to reflect total average distance over time. The current journey and accummulative journey data in the odometer does that. These sections of the odometer are retrospective, they look backwards.
The purpose of GOM is different...
It is a forward predictive tool and answers the question if my current driving conditions remains the same how far will I travel with the charge in my battery. It updates itself minute by minute or even seconds by seconds and varies as your driving conditions change.
So for example consider you are driving on the motorway at 70mph and your GOM shows 120 miles as the estimated distance that you will be able to travel on you current charge. After travelling 2 miles you run into a major RTA and the traffic now is at crawling pace of about 5 MPH for 30mins. So you will have travelled another 2.5miles. Hence many will think that the GOM will now show 120 - 2 - 2.5 miles = 115.5 miles. But unfortunately that is not how the GOM works.
It will answer the question it was designed to answer which is how far will you travel with your remaining charge if you current driving conditions remain the same. Since your current speed has now been 5mph for the last 30 minutes the GOM will factor that in and start showing 140 miles because with the amount of charge left in your battery that is how far you will travel driving at 5 mph. Those who do not understand GOM will say the GOM is wrong because it has gone up from 120 to140 instead of going down to 115.5
Well they just do not understand how GOM works.
Now after another 30 mins at 5 mph you come to a complete stop. The sun comes up and you do not move an inch. During this time you put the AC on for next 3 hours. Now some may expect the GOM to show 120 -2 - 5 = 113 miles and remain fixed at that.
Unfortunately that is not what will happen as again you driving conditions have changed and the battery is being run down by the AC although you have not moved an inch. The GOM will take the battery SOC into consideration and it will now run down from 140 to 90 miles as your have the AC on despite not moving an inch.
So now those who do not understand GOM will say it must show 113 miles because you have only travel 7 miles since it showed 120 at the beginning.
Well the GOM is not a static simple addition, subtraction, multiplication and division software as some are trying to prove. GOM is a complex continuous forward estimator base on a composite of all the components of your "recent" driving conditions.
People who do not understand the way GOM works in such situations become frustrated and take to social media saying all sort unfounded comments about how GOMs are useless and don't work.
Please ignore such comments and where possible expose the error of such thinking so others do not follow. Don't get offended when such people respond with insults because that is all they have. They have no knowledge or understanding so that is all they do... insult others.
Again if you have concerns about your GOM check with your Dealership or MG.
Always remember that all the GOM is telling you is how far you will travel if your driving conditions remain the same as they have been for last 10 to 20 mins.
 
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