Miles/kWh

This is the rest of the mileage I've done. Mostly in normal or sport mode with a heavy right foot. There's barely any change in the efficiency. I can't believe the system is working correctly...
 

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Even if I drive carefully in eco with kers 3 I don't get over 3.1. Maybe there's a fault with my system
Using higher kers is not always helpful, when driving on a motorway or other fast road you may find it better in kers 1 to allow some coasting else you are always having to build the spread back from the harsh kers.
 
It looks as though it will vary a lot depending on circumstance. I am averaging 3.5 over 750 miles so far. Kers 3 for my journeys as it is all twisty stuff, traffic lights, roundabouts so regardless of planning ahead it is always stop/start so lots of regen is the way forward. Lots of short journeys as well. As soon as I go over 10 miles the economy improves greatly, can easily get into the 4's without doing anything differently.
 
Duno how you guys are getting anything above 4!! I've done 6,800 miles in mine and can barely get above 3.8. My brother seems to get better than I do on the commute but still not above 4.
 
I went on a round trip to Maidenhead yesterday (hilly M40 on the way, flat M4 with roadworks back back) cruising at 65-70 on M40 using eco mode and carrying 2pax) Round trip 56 miles average speed 39 (brought down by West London traffic). Ambient temp 11c. Overall consumption 4.3 mi/kwh. Quite pleased as this was the first longer trip I had done (rest of mileage since I got the car has been local town short journeys because of vivid). Best I had seen before was 3.5 when temp was 15c, but typically getting 3ish
 
How about 5.9? Ok, it was downhill from the Staffordshire Moorlands to home in Chesterfield, about 700ft descent overall in average temperatures of about 6 Deg C. If I remember correctly the 50 mile return trip was about 4.6. Fairly slow, average about 26 mph on the Peak District lanes.
 
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Average speed of 28.9mph in 14.4miles will explain the WLTP figures.
I refer to ev database which is more accurate.
Hi again Leo, and great work with the info above that you have posted, I had seen this once before a good while back when I first stated looking at the 5 and yeh I agree EV database are better figures which are achievable when using a bit of sensible driving,
I’m working along the lines of trying to go down no lower than around 20% To give a nice buffer against the old range anxiety so at 20% ish I’m looking for a charger in case when I turn up at one its not working / broken
Les
 
Using higher kers is not always helpful, when driving on a motorway or other fast road you may find it better in kers 1 to allow some coasting else you are always having to build the spread back from the harsh kers.
Ranger I totally agree I never use kers 3 until I’m very close to where I need to stop. I seems to be driving in Eco K1 and then using my eyes to read the road ahead then when I see the lights or what ever is going to make me slow right down I easy off the accelerator where it now almost slows itself in a coasting like mode and then if need be, I will increase the Kers 1-2-3 if I need to only using the foot brake at little as I need to.
Don’t know if anyone agrees but to me not sure how to word this but the car when driving with Kers 3 on seems to be fighting against a restriction in a way a bit like the hand brake is not fully off is how it feels like to me not liking Kers 3.always ready to brake I know everything depends on your road conditions but generally just a little thought and anticipation is the way.

It’s all a-bit like an ICE car really if you accelerate hard and brake late 25 MPG,
Accelerate less hard and use anticipation for stopping goes to 45 MPG driving style plays a big big part, as does the weather but even that as an effect on ICE cars as well.

Just as a foot note one thing that does not help with MGEVs is the car always going back to normal Kers 2 in the 5 and Kers 3 I believe in the ZS why can’t it stay where you leave it for god stake the other thing is the currant journey screen on the 5 after the cars been switched off for a short while goes back to zero why?
Does my head in as all you have to do is press the ok button on the RHS steering wheel to reset if you need to ok rant over for today ( I think )
Les
 
With a little practice it is possible to ‘feather’ the accelerator when backing off and manage the regen - rather than fully off and max regen in setting 3 for example. I agree the defaults restored each journey is irritating.
 
I pride myself on my mpg with my ICE Jazz. On a long gentle slope, I select neutral. I think of this as KERS 1. On a long downhill section, I use DFCO and consider this as KERS 3. And this is how I intend to drive my MG5.
 
Hi guys,
Firstly thanks for the extremely useful forum. I've only had my 5 for a week but have already experimented with the best way of stretching the range (for me anyway!)
My first charge faithfully did 2 miles for each percentage and I changed it with 25% remaining and 156 miles done.
Since then I've tried a few different things but what seems to work best is, when road conditions allow, to select neutral, coast, and toggle to D using the varying cadence of KERS settings 1 2 & 3 to regulate distance to the car in front and to slow down for junctions. On some trips I barely use the brakes at all, and in some cases I get 3 or 4 miles to each percentage.
I'm not sure what overall increase I'll get per charge but it's certainly going to be well over the 200 miles expexted.
I didn't know this display page existed until I found out above but this was an afternoon jaunt to walk the dogs, along an A road with typical traffic. The average speed dropped from 54 to 23 when I got back to the car so I assume it measures on a daily basis or between resets? 🤔
Anyway I love the car and I'm discovering more about it and the whole EV concept by the day.
Thanks again for a fab forum 😁
 

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Ranger I totally agree I never use kers 3 until I’m very close to where I need to stop. I seems to be driving in Eco K1 and then using my eyes to read the road ahead then when I see the lights or what ever is going to make me slow right down I easy off the accelerator where it now almost slows itself in a coasting like mode and then if need be, I will increase the Kers 1-2-3 if I need to only using the foot brake at little as I need to.
Don’t know if anyone agrees but to me not sure how to word this but the car when driving with Kers 3 on seems to be fighting against a restriction in a way a bit like the hand brake is not fully off is how it feels like to me not liking Kers 3.always ready to brake I know everything depends on your road conditions but generally just a little thought and anticipation is the way.

It’s all a-bit like an ICE car really if you accelerate hard and brake late 25 MPG,
Accelerate less hard and use anticipation for stopping goes to 45 MPG driving style plays a big big part, as does the weather but even that as an effect on ICE cars as well.

Just as a foot note one thing that does not help with MGEVs is the car always going back to normal Kers 2 in the 5 and Kers 3 I believe in the ZS why can’t it stay where you leave it for god stake the other thing is the currant journey screen on the 5 after the cars been switched off for a short while goes back to zero why?
Does my head in as all you have to do is press the ok button on the RHS steering wheel to reset if you need to ok rant over for today ( I think )
Les
It really is a whole new experience on the motorway isn't it. Kers 1 setting is definitely much nicer driving experience (no idea on efficiency benefit as I have nothing to compare it to but 'feels' like it ought to be better, whereas 3 is demonstrably better on short journeys near home). I will need to get into the habit of moving the switch the other way for my rare forays onto the M6. First experience of the car feeling like it was working hard as well going over the top of the M62, I could almost hear the sigh of relief as it got to the top.
 
None of the KERS settings are objectively more efficient, they just give you more or less regen by default as you lift your foot. With practice you can make KERS 3 just as economical as KERS 1 on the motorway, but I find that it's too easy to accidentally slow down when your foot lifts slightly.

The main thing that affects range is changing speed unnecessarily. Accelerate gently, keep your top speed down and try to slow down as little as possible, ideally simply by not having accelerated in the first place, otherwise by planning ahead and preserving as much momentum as possible - so aim to arrive at the lights just as they change to green and ease off well in advance of any queue in the hope that you'll still be moving when it clears etc.
 
Hi guys,
Firstly thanks for the extremely useful forum. I've only had my 5 for a week but have already experimented with the best way of stretching the range (for me anyway!)
My first charge faithfully did 2 miles for each percentage and I changed it with 25% remaining and 156 miles done.
Since then I've tried a few different things but what seems to work best is, when road conditions allow, to select neutral, coast, and toggle to D using the varying cadence of KERS settings 1 2 & 3 to regulate distance to the car in front and to slow down for junctions. On some trips I barely use the brakes at all, and in some cases I get 3 or 4 miles to each percentage.
I'm not sure what overall increase I'll get per charge but it's certainly going to be well over the 200 miles expexted.
I didn't know this display page existed until I found out above but this was an afternoon jaunt to walk the dogs, along an A road with typical traffic. The average speed dropped from 54 to 23 when I got back to the car so I assume it measures on a daily basis or between resets? 🤔
Anyway I love the car and I'm discovering more about it and the whole EV concept by the day.
Thanks again for a fab forum 😁
Coasting in N is not advisable and downright dangerous
 
With all due respect, in an emergency one would use the brakes. Reading this thread I'm clearly not the only owner using this technique, but you don't have to 🙂
 
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