Reverse Camera SE LR

[DevonMG4]

i found this on ebay, i think it's the same product !

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It is and someone from Italy posted on here to say they'd bought a number to resell, don't think it's any cheaper though.

Been using mine a couple of months now, feels like it has always been there, never missed a beat.

 

[Danielone96]

It is and someone from Italy posted on here to say they'd bought a number to resell, don't think it's any cheaper though.

Been using mine a couple of months now, feels like it has always been there, never missed a beat.

i don't know how much you pay but on aliexpress they ask me 183€

 

[BrownChair]

From time to time, my reversing camera starts to flicker and show lines with blank and white dots like an old CRT TV.

Sometimes, this causes the entire infotainment screen to flicker, even after turning the camera off. Anyone else face something similar?

I'm waiting for a new adjustable camera so I can swap it out to see if it'll fix the issue

 

[Edd Beesley]

It is and someone from Italy posted on here to say they'd bought a number to resell, don't think it's any cheaper though.

Been using mine a couple of months now, feels like it has always been there, never missed a beat.

I’m part way through this install (and great videos, thank you!) I have the box connected and it takes over the video when I’m reverse but I’m confused about the camera connection - do I need to connect the pink “rev pow” cable into the camera cable, or is the camera powered at the other end by the reverse light and I should ignore the short red tail at the box end?

 

[DevonMG4]

I’m part way through this install (and great videos, thank you!) I have the box connected and it takes over the video when I’m reverse but I’m confused about the camera connection - do I need to connect the pink “rev pow” cable into the camera cable, or is the camera powered at the other end by the reverse light and I should ignore the short red tail at the box end?

Video part two at about 8:00 should show you, but in essence, the pink wire from the AliE box is the power for the camera and is live when you select reverse.

It connects to the RED tail on the LONG vid cable that goes front to back of the car. At the back of the car the similar red tail is now live when you are in reverse, connect that rear red tail to the red or power wire of the camera.

Hope that helps, ask if stuck.

There is a part three as well.

Good luck

 

[Edd Beesley]

Ok what you’re saying makes sense, but the cable they’ve supplied to me is different than what you have in the video. The camera tail is just the 4 pin connector, with no separate power input, and I don’t think the power is going into the 4 pin connector. I attached the link to red at the front, and the camera remains black. So either no power is actually getting into that 4 pin connector or the camera is dead.

I tested the video input on the box with a portable games console and that appeared on the display when in reverse so I know that’s working at least!

 

[DevonMG4]

Good test.

Your long lead has a red or power tail coming out of the phono plug at each end?

My camera had a 4-5mm 4 pin connector that came with its other half of connector. On the other end of that was the video/phono connector and another connector for power. Do you have something similar?

 

[DevonMG4]

What does your camera wiring look like.

 

[Edd Beesley]

Here the camera assembly, just the 4 pin and no power connector

 

[Edd Beesley]

And the end that’s come from the box, there’s no phono connector at this end, just the 4 pin. There’s continuity from the loose red lead here to the loose red lead coming out of the phono at the box end, but I haven’t tested any continuity in the 4 pin connector.

I’ve also just done a voltage check from the pink wire to a metal part behind the dash, and also the shield on the phono connector - 0V whether the car is in reverse or not, so not sure that pink circuit is working!

 

[DevonMG4]

And the end that’s come from the box, there’s no phono connector at this end, just the 4 pin. There’s continuity from the loose red lead here to the loose red lead coming out of the phono at the box end, but I haven’t tested any continuity in the 4 pin connector.

I’ve also just done a voltage check from the pink wire to a metal part behind the dash, and also the shield on the phono connector - 0v whether the car is in reverse or not, so not sure that pink circuit is working!

OK in 8150, the small 4 pin connector that connects to the short lead from the actual camera - looks to have a twin power and video cable coming out of it.

I can't see a phono / video socket on the end of the video cable but I assume it's there and you can plug it in to the long cable to the front of the car?

So we should then have a working setup except the camera has no power. I'd then be taking the positive (red or similar) power cable and connecting to the red tail of the video cable from the front of the car.

But your suggesting that there is no 12V on this lead?

Have you a small 9-12V battery you can power the camera with to test??

 

[Edd Beesley]

OK in 8150, the small 4 pin connector that connects to the short lead from the actual camera - looks to have a twin power and video cable coming out of it.

I can't see a phono / video socket on the end of the video cable but I assume it's there and you can plug it in to the long cable to the front of the car?

So we should then have a working setup except the camera has no power. I'd then be taking the positive (red or similar) power cable and connecting to the red tail of the video cable from the front of the car.

But your suggesting that there is no 12v on this lead?

Have you a small 9-12v battery you can power the camera with to test??

Bold added to your quote - that’s the part that’s different. The lead in 8150 -is- the end of the long lead. I suspect they’ve messed up what’s included, trying to make it better by just terminating with the 4 pin connector instead of your setup that terminates in a phono and you have a separate phono to 4 pin cable.

Good idea on the 9V battery, I’ll see if attaching one to the loose leads has any effect.

 

[DixieTGS]

Bold added to your quote - that’s the part that’s different. The lead in 8150 -is- the end of the long lead. I suspect they’ve messed up what’s included, trying to make it better by just terminating with the 4 pin connector instead of your setup that terminates in a phono and you have a separate phono to 4 pin cable.

Good idea on the 9v battery, I’ll see if attaching one to the loose leads has any effect.

I also have this kit, but am not going to fit it until after the car has been in on Tuesday for a warranty issue. However I just got the box out and it seems the same as yours - at least the camera and long lead are.

I also bought the camera with adjustable mount and lead suggested in an earlier post, and that looks to be the same setup.

If your test of the camera works but you have no power on the REV POW lead then maybe you could power the camera from the rear of the car some how, and not connect the REV POW lead at all. I don't know if you could find a switched 12V, or if connecting to the reversing light, could it upset the blown bulb circuitry?

If your camera is also dead, then in a week's time I should be able to tell you if the relatively cheap adjustable camera can replace the supplied one.

Shout if you want anything buzzed out on my kit. Good luck.

 

[DevonMG4]

I also have this kit, but am not going to fit it until after the car has been in on Tuesday for a warranty issue. However I just got the box out and it seems the same as yours - at least the camera and long lead are.

I also bought the camera with adjustable mount and lead suggested in an earlier post, and that looks to be the same setup.

If your test of the camera works but you have no power on the REV POW lead then maybe you could power the camera from the rear of the car some how, and not connect the REV POW lead at all. I don't know if you could find a switched 12V, or if connecting to the reversing light, could it upset the blown bulb circuitry?

If your camera is also dead, then in a week's time I should be able to tell you if the relatively cheap adjustable camera can replace the supplied one.

Shout if you want anything buzzed out on my kit. Good luck.

Would be good to see a clear picture of your long cable showing both ends.

For clarity, my LONG cable had a phono at each end with a red power tail coming out of it - at each end.

My camera came with two cables, one connected to the camera and terminating in the miniature 4 pin, a second or intermediate cable with the 4 pin miniature at one end and separate power and phono at the other end.

From both your descriptions, it seems this intermediate cable has been done away with??? OR is at least not required.

@DixieTGS could you check continuity from the red power wire at the front end to the 4 pin connector at the back end?

@Edd Beesley do you have access to a meter to check the pink wire goes to 12v when you engage reverse?

 

[DixieTGS]

Front red to back red and 4 pin
Front phono outer to back black and 4 pin
Front phono centre to 4 pin
No connection to one of the pins on the 4 pin

All wires in the long cable ~8 ohm.

The other camera instructions expect the back red wire to go to the reversing light. This powers the camera and provides a signal up the long lead to tell the head unit to show video on some android head units apparently. I.e. the red wire could provide volts in either direction depending on your setup.

 

[DevonMG4]

Front red to back red and 4 pin
Front phono outer to back black and 4 pin
Front phono centre to 4 pin
No connection to one of the pins on the 4 pin

All wires in the long cable ~8 ohm.

The other camera instructions expect the back red wire to go to the reversing light. This powers the camera and provides a signal up the long lead to tell the head unit to show video on some android head units apparently. I.e. the red wire could provide volts in either direction depending on your setup.

@DixieTGS So you have continuity between the two parts of the phono and the black 4 pin

AND

Front to Back RED and also into the 4 pin.

So I'd personally still be connecting PINK (REV POW) to the red tail of the long video cable and connecting the camera 4 pins together and expecting it to work.

I'd also carefully insulate the black and red tails coming out of the rear end on the long video cable as you don't want reversing power shorting to ground.

But @Edd Beesley this is not working for you?

I'm afraid it's tester time, I'd use a meter similar to this and check that there is 12v first on the PINK wire when you go into reverse and secondly this translates to the red tail at the rear of the car and if you can very carefully check each of the 4 pins to see if you have 12v on one of those.

When measuring voltages make sure you find a good earth for the meter black lead, plenty of metallic parts arn't earthed. As soon as you're done measuring, make sure nothing is live and can't touch earth.

This cable is definitely an improvement as one of the biggest challenges in my whole installation was pushing a fat phono through the flexible boot into the tailgate.

 

[Edd Beesley]

Front red to back red and 4 pin
Front phono outer to back black and 4 pin
Front phono centre to 4 pin
No connection to one of the pins on the 4 pin

All wires in the long cable ~8 ohm.

The other camera instructions expect the back red wire to go to the reversing light. This powers the camera and provides a signal up the long lead to tell the head unit to show video on some android head units apparently. I.e. the red wire could provide volts in either direction depending on your setup.

Yeah that’s the same cable setup I have.

I measured pink with a multimeter and got 0v, trying both a metal point behind the dash and the shield on the camera phono as reference. I’ll try again later on and double check, but I think my pink is dead. But I’m sure I can find another switched live behind the dash and just have the camera always powered.

 

[DevonMG4]

Yeah that’s the same cable setup I have.

I measured pink with a multimeter and got 0v, trying both a metal point behind the dash and the shield on the camera phono as reference. I’ll try again later on and double check, but I think my pink is dead. But I’m sure I can find another switched live behind the dash and just have the camera always powered.

Or use the tails in the boot from the reversing light, I don't know if the camera will fail sooner if powered all the time, probably not. A seat or seatbelt bolt should be a good earth.

just a thought, if you test with a battery onto the tails at the rear end, disconnect the pink at the front first - just in case.

Good luck

 

[DixieTGS]

So I'd personally still be connecting PINK (REV POW) to the red tail of the long video cable and connecting the camera 4 pins together and expecting it to work.

I'm fully expecting this to work.

@Edd Beesley did a check of the pink wire in message #130, hopefully the metal was not earthed as you suggested. Given what I found above, an easy source of earth point would be the black at the rear end of the long cable (assuming the cable and connectors are all good).

I'd also carefully insulate the black and red tails coming out of the rear end on the long video cable as you don't want reversing power shorting to ground.

I was thinking heat shrink wrap would be the most robust for this.

That's good - I've just noticed all the unused flying leads on the front cable assembly are already done with shrink wrap (ACC, 360, DVR etc).

This cable is definitely an improvement as one of the biggest challenges in my whole installation was pushing a fat phono through the flexible boot into the tailgate.

Did you disconnect the battery when connecting the big multipole connectors to the car ? I've heard you can damage stuff if there's voltages on any of the cables and you happen to be particularly unlucky (apologies if it's in your video, I haven't gone through it all again yet).

 

[DevonMG4]

I'm fully expecting this to work.

@Edd Beesley did a check of the pink wire in message #130, hopefully the metal was not earthed as you suggested. Given what I found above, an easy source of earth point would be the black at the rear end of the long cable (assuming the cable and connectors are all good).

I was thinking heat shrink wrap would be the most robust for this.

That's good - I've just noticed all the unused flying leads on the front cable assembly are already done with shrink wrap (ACC, 360, DVR etc).




Did you disconnect the battery when connecting the big multipole connectors to the car ? I've heard you can damage stuff if there's voltages on any of the cables and you happen to be particularly unlucky (apologies if it's in your video, I haven't gone through it all again yet).

Agree your points.

Did I disconnect the 12v battery, no. It's a while now but I'm sure I would have 'Powered off' from the infotainment and made sure not to sit in the drivers seat again. Once you have unplugged / plugged the new box into the infotainment then I would consider it all safe, just make sure not to ground the pink wire at any point.