Dashcam install

James, just fitting mine and the switched fuse stays live when the car is locked - mg4 trophy
Well my install seems ok but Im just going off what my installer said.

It does monitor the voltage too and will turn off when the below 12v.

Also the car itself monitors the voltage and top the battery up every so often, you can tell it’s doing this as it shows 14v in the app. It’s possible switched becomes live when this is happening.

Installer has actually just posted about it here.

Well my install seems ok but Im just going off what my installer said.

It does monitor the voltage too and will turn off when the below 12v.

Also the car itself monitors the voltage and top the battery up every so often, you can tell it’s doing this as it shows 14v in the app. It’s possible switched becomes live when this is happening.
Also not sure if it was clear or not but he used empty fuse slots, rather than tapping existing fuses.
 
Here you go. Also ground bolt on the right, and piggy backs need to be in that orientation
I’ve just done this myself using the same fuse locations (on a Trophy). Can confirm that the “switched” fuses do not appear to power off. They appear to be permanent live also. Left the car for 15 mins after locking and walking away (I have some LEDs off the same fuse, and the lights were still on :(

Am going to get a piggyback for the 5V USB port instead and pull power from there
 
I’ve just done this myself using the same fuse locations (on a Trophy). Can confirm that the “switched” fuses do not appear to power off. They appear to be permanent live also. Left the car for 15 mins after locking and walking away (I have some LEDs off the same fuse, and the lights were still on :(

Am going to get a piggyback for the 5V USB port instead and pull power from there
As above all I know is my setup works, it’s using a battery monitor for parking mode, and it behaves as expected when car is turned on.

As I said it does also reactive the switches live when the car is topping up the 12v.

Also remember him saying the orientation of the piggybacks in the free slots matters
 
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Help request. I’m going to attempt self install soon. I can manage many things and I installed in my last two cars but I am no electrician!

Question 1. How do I pop off the side panel to gain access to the fuses by drivers knee?
Question 2. I have seen elsewhere that I need one of these to piggyback on the fuse

79EC1BA0-5DBC-4FAD-8146-23A8FEC5C095.jpeg

I need to get a new power cable for the dashcam. It will have USB mini type connection on the camera end. Can I strip the wire on the other end and connect into the blue part, it‘s crimped I assume and I do have a crimper (forgive my ignorance!)

Any help for a non electrician greatly appreciated
 
If the power cable has a USB mini (or any type of USB plug) on it then the device is (almost certainly) expecting 5 Vdc ... the voltage in the fuse box will be 12 Vdc.
 
If the power cable has a USB mini (or any type of USB plug) on it then the device is (almost certainly) expecting 5 Vdc ... the voltage in the fuse box will be 12 Vdc.
Ah, so I need something like this I think….

0B4E94C9-C3ED-41EA-9B1E-8D7000D360A9.jpeg
 
Ah, so I need something like this I think….

View attachment 13644
Yes. That’s exactly what I’ve got. I have a micro fuse piggyback which will be the constant live, and then I’m going to get one of the 3 pin ones like you pictures to piggy back off the USB port fuse, which we know turns off straight away after locking the car.

The above kit all works just fine, problem is Ive only got the ability to connect to constant live for the moment.


The access isn’t too hard. You need to open the driver door, and pop off the side panel. Then with a plastic tool you can pry off the front cover around the steering wheel. I only pulled it down on the right hand side and just propped it open with something, rather than removing the fastenings on the left of the steering wheel column.
 
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The above kit all works just fine, problem is Ive only got the ability to connect to constant live for the moment.
Thanks for advice. We need ideally a constant live and an ACC connection is that right. What is your issue with the ACC?
 
Thanks for advice. We need ideally a constant live and an ACC connection is that right. What is your issue with the ACC?
Yep. I went off the photo on the first page from the dashcams installer. From my test, that row of fuses doesn’t turn off when you lock the door, which is what I want it to do. I left it for 15 mins afterwards and it was still powering the LED strips that I had pulling power from those fuses. So I’ll use one of the Micro3 piggybacks and pull power off the top left fuse which powers the USB ports and wireless charger instead, since they will be powered off straight away.
 
Yep. I went off the photo on the first page from the dashcams installer. From my test, that row of fuses doesn’t turn off when you lock the door, which is what I want it to do. I left it for 15 mins afterwards and it was still powering the LED strips that I had pulling power from those fuses. So I’ll use one of the Micro3 piggybacks and pull power off the top left fuse which powers the USB ports and wireless charger instead, since they will be powered off straight away.
Do you think you could take some photos when you get it all wired in properly?
 
Do you think you could take some photos when you get it all wired in properly?
Yep, will do

I got some lights working if you want to see those in the meantime 😎

And more on topic, here’s where I’m planning to wire into
 

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Yep, will do

I got some lights working if you want to see those in the meantime 😎

And more on topic, here’s where I’m planning to wire into
Excellent, thanks. I have similar LEDs under the seats. I used the rear USB rather than hardwire, managed to get a really tidy install. Would’ve preferred hardwire but I was in a rush and electrical stuff doesn’t come naturally to me, I have to think and it makes my brain hurt 😂
 
I’ve just done this myself using the same fuse locations (on a Trophy). Can confirm that the “switched” fuses do not appear to power off. They appear to be permanent live also. Left the car for 15 mins after locking and walking away (I have some LEDs off the same fuse, and the lights were still on :(

Am going to get a piggyback for the 5V USB port instead and pull power from there

Thought I’d queried this with my installer

Quote from his response

“Depending on what the car is doing it can go live without the ignition being on like in the older cars, this is common on EV’s.

It will also be on more than normal as the 12v battery can get some hammer during winter with lights on and short journeys etc.
I test the points with a meter a couple of times, manually triggering the ignition.”

Anyway hope you get your install sorted ☺️
 
Thought I’d queried this with my installer

Quote from his response

“Depending on what the car is doing it can go live without the ignition being on like in the older cars, this is common on EV’s.

It will also be on more than normal as the 12v battery can get some hammer during winter with lights on and short journeys etc.
I test the points with a meter a couple of times, manually triggering the ignition.”

Anyway hope you get your install sorted ☺️
Thanks. It may well be fine. But to be honest I prefer they turn off instantly when the car is locked, rather than when the car feels like it :) don’t want to risk draining more than necessary, since my LEDs are on the same fuse, I don’t want power them if not needed.

There’ve been too many reports of dead batteries recently for my liking. Don’t want to be one of those myself
 
Thanks. It may well be fine. But to be honest I prefer they turn off instantly when the car is locked, rather than when the car feels like it :) don’t want to risk draining more than necessary, since my LEDs are on the same fuse, I don’t want power them if not needed.

Yeah that makes sense re the LEDs 👍🏼

Also guess it depends how your cams parking mode works
 
I gather that MG don’t fit a USB power outlet on the MG4 next to the rear view mirror like they do on some other models?
 
Yep, will do

I got some lights working if you want to see those in the meantime 😎

And more on topic, here’s where I’m planning to wire into
Is that 5amp fuse the one that switches off as soon as you lock the door?

A bit off topic re the light (apologies), but anyone know of any lights that don't stay on for long or have a timer? I'd like them on when the door is opened, but off when closed...in fact I think I've just answered my question, I'd need to wire into the door sensor or interior light I guess?
 
Is that 5amp fuse the one that switches off as soon as you lock the door?

A bit off topic re the light (apologies), but anyone know of any lights that don't stay on for long or have a timer? I'd like them on when the door is opened, but off when closed...in fact I think I've just answered my question, I'd need to wire into the door sensor or interior light I guess?
As a very simple solution these work well.
Amazon product ASIN B01CJOP914
 
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