Dashcam install

AdamskiEM said:
That's the same kit I have. I believe it works if it's just connected to the switched live.. Worst case you could wire both into the same one I guess.

For the piggyback, I got this pack from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B09VYQGPZZ
It's the Micro ones that you need.

Shouldn't need anything else
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I'm going to hopefully install tomorrow. Did you take off the plastic trim that runs down the A pillar to the dash, any tips on removal if so? EDIT - also, recommended setting for the low voltage protection, which one are you using?
 
The only plastic I took off was on the side of the dashboard next to the fuses, and the front part of that. The trims along the pillars etc, I managed to push the wires into the sides of with the little plastic tool you get with the camera, without removing them
 
AdamskiEM said:
The only plastic I took off was on the side of the dashboard next to the fuses, and the front part of that. The trims along the pillars etc, I managed to push the wires into the sides of with the little plastic tool you get with the camera, without removing them
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Great. One more question, your photo in post #70 - the permanent live is the micro piggyback connector right? The switched one is that a standard size?
 
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Crap.. Yes :( The switched one is one of the 3 pin fuses
www.ebay.co.uk

1-5 Set MICRO3 PIGGY BACK BLADE FUSE HOLDER TAP 12V + 5/7.5/10/15/20/25/30A FUSE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1-5 Set MICRO3 PIGGY BACK BLADE FUSE HOLDER TAP 12V + 5/7.5/10/15/20/25/30A FUSE at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Totally forgot about the different sizes, sorry!

Looks like they're out of the 5A ones
 
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AdamskiEM said:
Crap.. Yes :( The switched one is one of the 3 pin fuses
www.ebay.co.uk

1-5 Set MICRO3 PIGGY BACK BLADE FUSE HOLDER TAP 12V + 5/7.5/10/15/20/25/30A FUSE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1-5 Set MICRO3 PIGGY BACK BLADE FUSE HOLDER TAP 12V + 5/7.5/10/15/20/25/30A FUSE at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Totally forgot about the different sizes, sorry!

Looks like they're out of the 5A ones
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OK. so I am waiting for a 3 pin piggyback cable to arrive.

In the meantime, I want to hardwire in my interior LED lights. My electrical knowledge is BASIC as said before. I have bought a multimeter (please pray for me :ROFLMAO:). So, can I cut off the cigarette lighter attachment, crimp a fuse connector onto the red cable and install to a spare switched fuse space with a 5a fuse and then on the black cable crimp an earth connector? Is this OK or will I die in an MG4 volcano orange glowy fire?

I know I am stretching the topic here but I am in the fusebox doing the dashcam ;)
 
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I think your best bet would be to use the same fuse as the dashcam. Since it’s dedicated for your use, and we know it’s switched on when the car comes on. This is what I have done too. Just crimp the 2 cables into the piggyback
 
Will said:
Hi @jamesc83 , how is the rear picture from that camera location? Would it be suitable for reversing/parking? I have a SE and finding rear visibility poor, so thinking about a rear camera to help. Thanks, Will
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Hi, only just seen this as I’ve not been on the forum much over the holidays. Here’s a screen grab from a video from the rear
1BC0F74C-1860-4C08-9824-7A6153DE6BE3.png
 
AdamskiEM said:
I think your best bet would be to use the same fuse as the dashcam. Since it’s dedicated for your use, and we know it’s switched on when the car comes on. This is what I have done too. Just crimp the 2 cables into the piggyback
Click to expand...
Installed today, dashcam and underseat LEDs working. Not sure if the fuses I am using are correct. Are you using 20a fuses in both slots of the two piggyback connectors? I can only see the top fuse on each connector in your picture #70
 
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Neil1966 said:
We're abouts is this fusebox and how do I get to it please
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You need to pop this plastic panel off, recommend a plastic spudger/pry tool

IMG_0285.JPG


I found it much easier to pull away the rubber door seal first, its easy to reattach.

There are then 3 screws I think on the side and three or four underneath, then you can pop down the housing containing the mirror adjustment switch, that whole panel can be lowered
 
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benfello said:
Gonna give it a go today. I’ve been putting it off for enough time now. What in the world is this?
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Although it's the same panel, I didn't need to touch that part. I could easily pull down just the other side.

I managed to route the cables easily, up through the rear view mirror surround:

IMG_0286.JPG


The right hand side of the panel pops off easily with a plastic pry tool

Then push cable up under trim at top of windscreen.

The A pillar is really easy, pull away the rubber trim and you'll easily get in behind the plastic a pillar panel

IMG_0287.JPG


Good luck

EDIT - The Micro Piggyback Connectors, 2 pin ones for the permanent live see HERE were impossibly tight, I had to trim away some plastic on the fuse to get it to go in. The three pin one for the switched connection was fine 🤷‍♂️
 
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So I’ve gotten the unit detached enough to reach the fuses… now I’m trying to simply power off the car. It’s got a message “Function is available after vehicle is started”.

I don’t understand, the car is awake right now, what needs to be started? I’ve put it in drive and back into park but got the same message.

I wouldn’t worry, but I feel it’s the right choice turning it off before pulling/swapping any fuses
 
benfello said:
So I’ve gotten the unit detached enough to reach the fuses… now I’m trying to simply power off the car. It’s got a message “Function is available after vehicle is started”.

I don’t understand, the car is awake right now, what needs to be started? I’ve put it in drive and back into park but got the same message.

I wouldn’t worry, but I feel it’s the right choice turning it off before pulling/swapping any fuses
Click to expand...

Try when not sitting in drivers seat? EDIT - and try rebooting infotainment, press and hold home button 10 seconds
 
benfello said:
Sadly not. This brings up the same message. I’m assuming it should be correct doing it that way, but it mustn’t be happy with just that
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Try rebooting infotainment, push and hold home button 10 seconds and also is key in car, near enough to be seen by car when shutting down?
 
Crawfyp said:
Try rebooting infotainment, push and hold home button 10 seconds and also is key in car, near enough to be seen by car when shutting down?
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Done the reboot - no difference sadly.
Key is in the middle storage by the sensor (I think that’s what it is, right?).

Powered on again, D, P, nothing.
Weirdly when pressing the power off button, it does switch off the driver info screen and all drive lights turn off, so P is no longer lit up, no parking break red light, etc.

It’s like it’s half done it, but the infotainment is still going.
 
benfello said:
Done the reboot - no difference sadly.
Key is in the middle storage by the sensor (I think that’s what it is, right?).

Powered on again, D, P, nothing.
Weirdly when pressing the power off button, it does switch off the driver info screen and all drive lights turn off, so P is no longer lit up, no parking break red light, etc.

It’s like it’s half done it, but the infotainment is still going.
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Yes, mine left that running also. I didnt get any shocks but do your own due diligence 😬 - I am not the person for electrical advice I must add.
 
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