Will upgrade all speakers and add a sub

[lucas2350d]

it sits just above the glove box. it is best to loosen the screws and remove the frame from the glove compartment. here is a photo of the connector. Would be nice if you could write down and document the assignment. I haven't gotten that far yet.

 

[rayzfun]

I have a friend in an mg dealer! Also have a wiring schematic for the infotainment

Unfortunately the wiring colours don’t give much clue as to which is which.
The EQ I will have a play with. I’m on an SE SR car so there’s no 3D sound to turn off, just loudness and the EQ settings.

Attached is a picture of the left passenger side speaker connector. The colours match what the tweeter has but which is positive and negative I’m none the wiser. The colours then for the driver side are different again.
View attachment 14859

If you’re interested I have the wiring schematic for the speakers with all colour coding references

It’s the green module that has the speaker wires

 

[lucas2350d]

If you’re interested I have the wiring schematic for the speakers with all colour coding references

Can you post it here?

 

[MG4 DK]

Thanks a lot, guys. That is just super helpful what you are doing here. I do recognize some of the wires from what I just did on the speakers.

 

[rayzfun]

Can anybody advise where I can get the original mg speaker connectors? I’m fitting original trophy speakers to the rear of my se and there is no wiring which isn’t a problem but need the connections or I’ll have to solder directly to the speaker terminals

 

[chopduck]

I have a friend in an mg dealer! Also have a wiring schematic for the infotainment


If you’re interested I have the wiring schematic for the speakers with all colour coding references

It’s the green module that has the speaker wires

Wiring / colour codes would be awesome please! Also, if we install and connect rear speakers, does anyone know how to code the Headunit to output to 4 speakers? I'm guessing they install the same headunit in all MG4's..

 

[rayzfun]

Unfortunately, you cannot code the head unit to except the rear speakers as the amplifier is different to the trophy model, but what you can do, which is what I am going to do is install a small amplifier under the dashboard, which will power all four speakers and take its audio feed from the back of the head unit, which is accessible from the glove box

 

[MG4 DK]

I finally got the sub installed. That wasn't easy at all. I went through a rubber gasket on the right side to get power from the 12V battery. Unfortunately, the gasket popped out of its insert and I haven't managed to get it back in.

The harness with the wires for the head unit is apparently an item you can not buy adapters for. I ended up using T-connectors as you can see in the picture. I will improve this later on.

My assumptions on the colors for the speaker wires:

The sound is really really good now. The sub just adds the missing link to a great sound stage. I'm not done yet though. Next week I will be getting a Pioneer GM D1004 4-channel amplifier. I will also add some more sound dampening to the doors as that bass travels too much inside the plastic.

 

[rayzfun]

I finally got the sub installed. That wasn't easy at all. I went through a rubber gasket on the right side to get power from the 12V battery. Unfortunately, the gasket popped out of its insert and I haven't managed to get it back in.

The harness with the wires for the head unit is apparently an item you can not buy adapters for. I ended up using T-connectors as you can see in the picture. I will improve this later on.
View attachment 15126

My assumptions on the colors for the speaker wires:
View attachment 15127
The sound is really really good now. The sub just adds the missing link to a great sound stage. I'm not done yet though. Next week I will be getting a Pioneer GM D1004 4-channel amplifier. I will also add some more sound dampening to the doors as that bass travels too much inside the plastic.

I can send you a wiring schematic for the infotainment system had all the wiring and pins etc

 

[MG4 DK]

I can send you a wiring schematic for the infotainment system had all the wiring and pins etc

Please do - thanks! That will come in handy when installing the amp because that's gonna involve a lot more wires.

 

[rayzfun]

Here you go

 

[rayzfun]

I’m fitting a kenwood amp, probably under the dash and taking a feed from the audio out of the infotainment system. Mines an SR SE so only speakers in the front. Intercepting the L R audio and feeding it into the amp and using the amp to power both front and rear speakers. It’s quite a small amp 45w RMS x 4. I need to take a feed from the battery directly and fitting an inline fuse too.

 

[MG4 DK]

I’m fitting a kenwood amp, probably under the dash and taking a feed from the audio out of the infotainment system. Mines an SR SE so only speakers in the front. Intercepting the L R audio and feeding it into the amp and using the amp to power both front and rear speakers. It’s quite a small amp 45w RMS x 4. I need to take a feed from the battery directly and fitting an inline fuse too.

Similar to the amp I'm fitting. Instead of going to the battery, you could also consider using a fuse power thief from the cabin fuse box. Only, you have to find a fuse rated higher than 15 amps. The two options are Driver seat module (30 amps) or Infotainment (20 amps).

 

[rayzfun]

I was advised that drawing power from the fuse box for an amp was a big no? Apparently too much of a draw and can affect other electric systems. Mine is a Kenwood KAC-m1814. Manual advises to avoid fuse box. Where are you installing your amp?

 

[MG4 DK]

Planning to put my amp behind the glovebox under the head unit.

I am by no means an expert. Just watched a ton of youtube videos and it is generally stated that if you can find a fuse with a higher rating it should work. Normally amplifiers draw a lot of power and should go to the battery. However, these 4x45w draw less than 15 amps. Anyway, the battery is the safe bet. Just extremely difficult to go through the firewall in an elegant way. Curious to hear how you're gonna solve it.

 

[rayzfun]

Planning to put my amp behind the glovebox under the head unit.

I am by no means an expert. Just watched a ton of youtube videos and it is generally stated that if you can find a fuse with a higher rating it should work. Normally amplifiers draw a lot of power and should go to the battery. However, these 4x45w draw less than 15 amps. Anyway, the battery is the safe bet. Just extremely difficult to go through the firewall in an elegant way. Curious to hear how you're gonna solve it.

Hmm not looking forward to it! Where are you putting your amp?

Was the schematic helpful?

Doh behind glovebox! Need to read properly !

 

[MG4 DK]

Okay, this is not easy. I got my new amplifier, prepared all wires, and installed it, and ... nothing!
I can get it to work if I run the speaker output directly to the speakers and then move the speaker outputs to the amplifier. Was driving me nuts, but I have now learned that that is a thing for some modern systems. If the head unit doesn't detect a circuit, it will not output a signal. The new amplifier isn't recognized as a circuit until it is turned on, and it needs a signal to be turned on. Catch 22.

There are two solutions to this - short the speaker wires with a 50-ohm resistor or add a line output converter. The ladder will further improve sound quality so that's probably what I'm gonna do. This will mean that I only will be amplifying the front speaker signal which should be fine. I do lose the option to adjust front-rear and I have a suspicion that more of the low bass is fed to the rear speakers by the head unit.

Anyway - when jumpstarting the new amplifier this way, the whole system - with the active sub - sounds absolutely amazing! It plays loud undistorted, shakes your guts, blurs the rear mirror, and has a very open sound stage.

 

[rayzfun]

Hi can I ask what amp you have? Mine is designed to automatically detect the speaker line out from the head unit. Also I am planning to take the feed from the front left right (mine is an SE) connect to a phono and then to a female phono to twin male phone which will give me a front and rear output for the rear speakers I’m planning to fit into the rear doors, Is yours an SE?

 

[MG4 DK]

My amp is a Pioneer GM D1004. It is also designed to automatically detect the speaker line out from the head unit. The problem is that the head unit will not output anything if the resistance is much higher than a speaker. I think you will have the same problem as I have. I just ordered a LC2i pro to fix it.

Mine is a trophy, but I will also only use front output to the amp. The amp will convert the two channels in to four channels out.

 

[rayzfun]

I think my amp is a little simpler, it just has 2 x L & R input, I’m having I take front LR and connect to phono, then an adapter to split the LR so I can get the 4 channels. I’ve not set it up yes as the bloody car has gone back to dealer again. This time 12v charging system failed!