IMMEDIATE ATTENTION - Replacement Brake Pads

[jr1]

First I released the parking brake then disconnected the 12V negative battery terminal, I then used a 12v battery and reversed the polarity at the motor connector to move it in and out. It also required to be pushed in, removing the connectors from the motors was awkward. When I connected the 12V battery a few faults appeared along with a flashing N in the drive selector, a short drive and all cleared so no problems.

 

[Lovemyev]

When you say “it also required to be pushed in”.
I assume you mean the hydraulic brake piston in the calliper, in order to create enough space, to house the new thicker brake pads ?.
What about this alternative method that may work, tell me what you think of this .
First release the handbrake, disconnected the negative terminal on the 12 volt battery.
Disconnect the handbrake motor(s) you could then remove the two torque bolts that holds the motors to the calliper body, stand them to one side.
( The motor is now already in the reversed position so no need to use a 12 volt battery )
Push back the hydraulic pistons and replace the disc and the pads.
Pump up the foot brake until solid, then refit the motors and reconnect the both wiring looms.
Reconnect the battery and the car should now apply the handbrake as normal.
The car should have no knowledge of the process, because the motor positions have not changed until power is resorted .

 

[jr1]

Sounds a more professional way to do it, unbelievably the connectors to the motors gave more of a problem.

Yes I also removed the brake fluid cap to push back the brake piston

 

[Lovemyev]

Sounds a more professional way to do it, unbelievably the connectors to the motors gave more of a problem.

Yes I also removed the brake fluid cap to push back the brake piston

As long as you got the necessary result, it’s still a job well done and a lot of cash saved over dealer prices .
Tell me, so you pushed back the pistons and replaced the pads.
How did you find pumping up the footbrake after ?.
Did you do it BEFORE connecting up the battery, or did you have to connect the battery first, then pump up the pedal ?.
Then reconnect the handbrake motors.
I think others have had a problem, when if you power up the car into ready mode, the handbrake try’s to apply itself.
But the travel distance is too great, given that the brakes have not been pumped up.
This has caused motors to fail and in some cases, caused a problem with the handbrake module failing.
Even some of the dealers and third party garages have been caught out.
By using a diagnostic tablet etc and putting the handbrake in service mode.

 

[jr1]

Starting up when the job was finished the brake pedel was very firm and needed no pumping. The anti squeal backing had to be removed from the pads to get them to fit

 

[Jto]

Just had second service (17,064 odometer reading) on my MG EV, and, at top of the Vehicle Health Check Report (hatched in RED) was Immediate Attention required for Front & Rear Brakes.
Front Brake Pads 10.0mm Remaining Front brake discs lipped and recommended replacement when pads are due
Rear Brakes - discs pitted

Price for this was £804.62

I was told at collection 'don't worry about it yet .... just letting you know' So why IMMEDIATE attention with 10mm remaining on pads (which is almost as new thickness)?

I expect IMMEDIATE ATTENTION to mean RIGHT NOW - not sometime in the future!

Spoke with the service department this morning who confirmed that it was not a major issue, and, was not requiring immediate attention. He advised that they would look to change the manner of how they informed customers in future; suggest perhaps hatch in YELLOW for future action?

He also agreed with me that turning KERS to 1 from current 3 would probably eliminate most, if not all, the corrosion as I would be using the brake pads.

In future I will only use KERS 1 as the cost of replacement discs FAR outweighs the benefit of a few extra KWh's input to battery when using the motor to brake.

Also, as the car is out of warranty (except for the electrical stuff as defined in T&C's) is it ok to use non MG dealer for things like brake pad/disc replacement?

Anyone done this?

All you got to do is every time you go out in your car is to give one or two good pushes on the brake pedal so the pad contact the discs this way you keep them up to scratch and you can still use KRRS 3

 

[Shep]

A few weeks after buying my 4-year old ZS EV from main dealer with guarantee everything checked and okay I received a similar warning re. brakes (when the car was in to check out a steering click). They suggested I'd picked up some grit that had caused severe damage (funny, same both sides) to the rear discs and pads in just the few weeks I'd had the car.

Took the car to my regular MOT garage (over 30 years) and they said the brakes were fine. Bit of rust for reasons explained above and I just switch to KERS 1 now and again. Needless to say, I won't be getting the MOT done with the main dealer service. I'll get the MOT done elsewhere a week before the annual service.

The lesson, always get a second opinion from someone you can trust.

 

[Lovemyev]

I won't be getting the MOT done with the main dealer service. I'll get the MOT done elsewhere a week before the annual service.

Totally agree !.
This is the policy I have always adopted myself.
I like to use an independent MOT station, that does not offer a repair facility.
So there is no financial loss or gain from carrying out any of the remedial work.
A lot of main dealers like to temp you with the offer of “free MOT’s” and a free complimentary “Health Check”.
Remember, that very little in life comes as free anymore.
These are merely methods / tools of providing some extra revenue in many cases.
EV’s are more prone to this type of situation because the service work, provides them a with a lot less income than ICE vehicles.
Rear brakes have become an instant target on EV’s now.
But the cost of replacing discs and pads at the dealership is expensive, many due to the high price of the parts ( which are nothing special ) and the high cost of main dealer labour prices of course.
Now third party parts are more readerly available on some models, these come at a much cheaper price.
So the idea of looking for extra work, has sort of back fired really.
This is not a new practice by any means.
I was once offered to replace the cam belt on a VW Polo ( while in for a basic service ) for the special offer price of £450 to save me the bother of booking another slot.
The belt was not due for replacement for another 18 months !!!.
The service was FOC because it had been paid for by the previous owner, need I say anymore .