Can I ask which one did you get and if it comes with the orange IP66 socket like in some of the photos

Yeah. Same orange connector as the photos.

I opted for the single 15A socket.

I would assume the multiple outlet options come with the fused power board shown in the other photos. No idea for sure though.
 
Get a decent extension lead (eg something with 2.5 mm² conductors)
Hmm, these are proving a bit hard to find with 10A plug/socket 😕
But with any luck I’ve done my maths right and to stay under 2% voltage loss if the car is outputting 218-220V and I’m only using draw the max 10A current*… I should comfortably get away with a 25m cable with 1.5 mm² conductors.

(*Added up the “essentials” I’d use in a blackout and even with the fridge hitting its startup current they total less than 700W. Internet/WiFi etc has its own UPS so that helps - I’d just leave them connected to the mains)

Anyway I’m almost certainly doing something wrong here or have mixed up some terminology, but it’s interesting learning this stuff 😋 Hopefully anything glaringly obvious someone can point out!
 
Startup current from an electric motor is a short spike and so long as your output current can handle that the cable will deal with it easily. It is continuous high current that heats things up. Modern motors deal with this with soft start mechanisms. The spike is due to the capacitor being fully charged and discharging instantly to kick start the motor.

Electricity is made up of 3 components. Volts is pressure, Amps is current and Ohms resistance. Just like a river where there is water pressure but depending on the size of the river the current may be quite low or enormous while the pressure remains the same. The river bed, banks and obstacles are resistance.

Continuous current makes cables heat up & trying to force more down a thin cable causes overheating and eventual failure with catastrophic consequences. That's why we have RCDs, RCCBs and fuses. Voltage is of no consequence until combined with Amperage. Resistance is what causes voltage drop over distance.

My EVSE runs at a continuous 32 amps & 4mm² cable over a short distance is OK but over a longer distance due to resistance the cable must be thicker. I have 6mm² cable & the run is about 10 metres. During a 6.6 kW charge it gets quite warm. The current can be 32 amps & while that equals 7.36 kW at 230 volts losses due to heat mean the amount processed by the cars charger is 6.6 kW.
 
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I did a test of the V2L adapter as supplied by MG Australia:

The thing which surprised me was the AC voltage output being quite low at 215-217 V AC.
So here’s a question - the acceptable lower limit in Australia is 216V but I wonder what range the appliances themselves tolerate?

Would it be say 210V? Just wondering how happy the compressor on a fridge would be for several hours at 215V.

Edit: Disregard that. Just found this model fridge is rated at 220V-240V so I’m going to assume it’ll be fine since it’s been running on 247V for the last 13 years…
 
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The nominal voltage of the Australian grid is 230 volts and the standard requires it to be supplied from +10% to -6% of this so 253 volts to 216 volts. That said in NSW the voltage is generally supplied between 240 and 250 volts.

Remember it is volts x Amps that determines a unit of energy expressed as watts. so an appliance that consumes 500 watts requires 2.18 amps at 230 volts or 2.32 amps at 216 volts. The difference in current is very small so it does not have a very large effect on an appliance.
 
I have just returned from my quick trip to Noosa. Yesterday when I travelled North was disaster. I got to Coomera with 11% power left & missed the turn off to the BP Pulse charger. My phone is on the Optus network & there was no time with the traffic to re adjust the car Satnav so I ended up back on the Motorway heading South from where I'd come. I knew there was a charger at Helensvale, turned off there, pulled over & got instructions. I got there & couldn't find it but I asked a local who said "See that Tesla over there, he's at it". Doh.

Anyway long story short, The app wouldn't work & the chargers WiFi was also down due to the Optus crash. I didn't want to risk going anywhere else so 3 1/2 hours later I was ready to go.

Topped up at the Evie charger about 50 meters from where I was staying in Noosaville last night while I had dinner & left at lunch time today with 96% charge. I needed a pee at Chinderah but carried on to Ballina where there is a BP pulse 75kW charger. SOC was about 19% & by the time I'd had a comfort stop & snack it had charged up to 80% & I left for home.

Due to the Optus crash & the traffic jams I didn't record any stats on the way up.

I set the car on ECO, OPD & LKA off with the Aircon on all the way. Total distance was 491 km & 15.8 kWh/100km. I'd say 80% of the trip was at 110 km/h with a couple of slow road works for 5-6km & the rest 100km/h other than the starts & stops. 35% SOC when I arrived home.
 
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Given that the MG4 has only been in Australia since August the car windscreen manufacturers will not yet have had time to get the tooling set up & make any. So the only way would be an import from China and this will take time. This is not unusual for a new model of any brand.
 
I have just returned from my quick trip to Noosa. Yesterday when I travelled North was disaster. I got to Coomera with 11% power left & missed the turn off to the BP Pulse charger. My phone is on the Optus network
Ugh. Yeah that was a shocker. I use Telstra but still no guarantee of service when out and about.

There's a chance I'm heading up to Robina and back on a 700+km day trip early next week. Taking a mate to visit a dying friend.

Any thoughts on preferred charge locations?

I have the Evie, Chargefox, BP Pulse and Tesla apps.
I also have an EVIE RFID card and it's registered with Chargefox as well.

Looking at the fast DC charger stops to know my options, looks like:

Tyndale, Evie 2 x 350 kW (Shell servo)
Ballina, BP Pulse 2 x 75 kW (Highway service centre, I know that one)
Knockrow, Tesla 6 x 120 kW (Byron Wildlife Sanctuary) 85c/kWh!!
Robina Central, Evie 2 x 50 kW (some shops?)

Obviously Coffs NRMA and BP Pulse stations as well on return journey if needed.
 
The BP at Ballina is right on the main highway so convenient with plenty of food options, clean toilets etc. When I got there 1 space was occupied by an Ioniq 5. I connected and it started chaging but then said charging complete. This happened 5 times & the Ionoq just finished. I talked to the bloke & then tried the other one & it worked. Cost 55c/kWh. I sent a fault report to BP.

The charger at Hellensvale is Yurika (QLD government) 50kW operated by Chargefox & is located in the Train station carpark which is why I couldn't find it. Once the phones were back on line easy peasy. Cost 30c/kWh. I used the 50kW Evie charger at Noosaville right next to my Hotel & again no issues. 50c/kWh.
 
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Does anyone have experience with MG Parts availability in Australia?

As per earlier comments, mine was delivered with the heater not working. Service confirmed it would need to be replaced, and it was done within a few days. I'm led to understand the longest wait was for approval for the work from MG head office.

For a relatively obscure part on a brand new model I was fully expecting to be told there would be a several month wait on parts.

Plenty of accessories in stock too it seems.

Surprised to hear there's no glass though. That's one thing you think they would be prepared with.
 
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The nominal voltage of the Australian grid is 230 volts and the standard requires it to be supplied from +10% to -6% of this so 253 volts to 216 volts. That said in NSW the voltage is generally supplied between 240 and 250 volts.

Remember it is volts x Amps that determines a unit of energy expressed as watts. so an appliance that consumes 500 watts requires 2.18 amps at 230 volts or 2.32 amps at 216 volts. The difference in current is very small so it does not have a very large effect on an appliance.
This is actually why I was advising caution when it comes to leads, plugs, etc.
216v at the source (vehicle) is one thing, but combine it with a 30m extension cord that has tiny conductors, then plug in a power board on the end with dirty contacts, then plug a fridge and a freezer into that power board and you have the recipe for a significant voltage drop.

People often confuse "heavy duty" extension leads for the overall physical thickness.
A heavy duty "thick" cable that protects against mechanical stress is not the same as a cable with thick conductors that protect against voltage drop.
 
Yes any extension lead should have 2.5mm² phase and neutral cores to deliver up to 13.5 amps continuously though some have 15 amp limits and have a 15 amp plug which has a larger earth pin to prevent it being used from a standard household 10 amp socket.

It can handle up to 20amps for a short duration The earth core can be 1.5mm². The lead will be thicker and less flexible. It will cost $60.00 to $120.00 for 20 metres. Generally the more you pay the better the quality will be. Cheap extension cords are 1.0mm² or 1.5mm² and will not cut the mustard at all. Only OK for light duty stuff.
 
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Tyndale, Evie 2 x 350 kW (Shell servo)
Ballina, BP Pulse 2 x 75 kW (Highway service centre, I know that one)
Knockrow, Tesla 6 x 120 kW (Byron Wildlife Sanctuary) 85c/kWh!!
Robina Central, Evie 2 x 50 kW (some shops?)

Obviously Coffs NRMA and BP Pulse stations as well on return journey if needed.
NRMA chargers were all free not too long ago but they are now starting to charge. I don't know what their rates are though

I just ordered an Evie RFID card as I don't want to be caught out by an internet failure again. When at the BP charger the Ioniq owner told me the Chargefox in Ballina is capable of 350 kW but the grid supply cable can only deliver 84 kW. Cost is 60c/kWh. There is also a 50kW charger costing 45c/kWh at the same site. The only issue for travelling is that you have to drive in to town.
 
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Usually extension cables using 2.5mm² wire and 10 A plug/socket are pretty long (20-50 metres), which is fine if you need that. If you want something shorter you probably need to make one / have one made by someone suitably qualified.
 
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NRMA chargers were all free not too long ago but they are now starting to charge. I don't know what their rates are though

I just ordered an Evie RFID card as I don't want to be caught out by an internet failure again. When at the BP charger the Ioniq owner told me the Chargefox in Ballina is capable of 350 kW but the grid supply cable can only deliver 84 kW. Cost is 60c/kWh. There is also a 50kW charger costing 45c/kWh at the same site. The only issue for travelling is that you have to drive in to town.
Also 2 NRMA 50 kW chargers at the Byron Bay turnoff (The Farm) for 54c/kWh. They're back in service after a repair.
 
We picked up a diamond red 64 Essence in Bris on Friday. Loved it until this morning when the airbag light came on and didnt go away. Dealer hasn’t been super helpful so far and told us to call roadside assist who just sent us back to the dealer. We now have to wait until the 8th Nov to take it in, for them to look at it. I hope it’s some sort of update fix but by the looks of o/s threads I’m not getting my hopes up…
I thought I would share an update with you all.
Wednesday this week marks 2 weeks that our Essence 64 has been sitting at the MG service centre, and 2 weeks that we have been driving an electric ZS as a loan car. When I called last Wednesday for an update, reception advised they were waiting for parts. When I called back on Friday to find more information, they said they were waiting on airbag modules to be delivered. Other than that, we don’t know much else. The most disappointing thing about the whole experience so far is the lack of communication and customer service.
Let’s see if we get our car back this week 🤞🏻
 
Yeah service levels between individual dealerships will always differ. Which is a pain.

We also had the electric ZS loan car for our 2 week repair period. Luckily our dealership wasn't too bad on the communications front, they blamed most of the delay on MG head office who had them first run a whole bunch of additional diagnostics on top of what they had already done (fair enough, no point replacing something only to have it break again a week later). Then waiting on their warranty approval.

In my case luckily the part was in stock, so no additional delays there.

Good luck, hope you get it back soon.
 

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