Apart from being expensive, the Oz genuine MG one appears to be laughably short (40cm) 13A? Not that the official MG website tells you anything about it, as usual.
You can get cables made to order if you wish.

Is there a reason for needing a long dedicated cable, instead of a shorter cable with a longer decent quality extension lead?

If you have a garage / parking bay for the car, then for home backup it's worth considering having a sparky fit a power inlet wired to a transfer switch in the main circuit board set up to power selected circuits if required. Much like one would do for using a generator as a backup power source.
 
You can get cables made to order if you wish.

Is there a reason for needing a long dedicated cable, instead of a shorter cable with a longer decent quality extension lead?
Really just for convenience due to the particular layout here. Yeah it does sound like a custom cable might be the only option currently..
I'll probably go with one of these V2L Cable - EVchargers - EV cables and adaptors
It looks good quality and is about half the price of the MG brand one (for the 1m length). It comes in 1, 3, 5, 10 or 20m lengths and with 1, 2 or 4 outlets.
..and although not as polished as a factory made one, something like this does indeed look to be a safer bet I guess than eBay. Thanks 👍
 
Well I'll be .... I installed the new 60watt Baseus PD2.0/QC3/4 USB-C cable & plugged in the phone to charge it & Android Auto started & not only that, it runs really fast compared to the USB-A data cable. I'd been told that USB-C to USB-C would not work this way. Moral of the story "Don't believe everything you've been told or read, try it for yourself"
I decided to connect my phone and set up some things in Android Auto yesterday with the USB-C cable and it would not connect. When I first connected it a week or so ago it worked fine. I tried several times, shutting the car down, the phone etc to no avail. Somehow the software preventing data transfer when I connected USB-C to USB-C the first time didn't work I guess. So whoever said it shouldn't work was right. It doesn't.
 
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You can get cables made to order if you wish.

Is there a reason for needing a long dedicated cable, instead of a shorter cable with a longer decent quality extension lead?

If you have a garage / parking bay for the car, then for home backup it's worth considering having a sparky fit a power inlet wired to a transfer switch in the main circuit board set up to power selected circuits if required. Much like one would do for using a generator as a backup power source.
I purchased a Pecham 32 amp discharge plug from Ali-Express on the strength of a couple of previous purchasers saying it worked well on a MG4. I keep it in the granny charger bag. It has a universal 3 pin socket outlet so is very compact. I have used it once so far with my pressure washer that draws 1.9kW. Cost $39.99 delivered. I read a test from a UK website where they tested the limit on an MG4 & were able to get almost 32 amps out, over 7kW.

I could in theory run a 6mm TPS cable back to the main distribution board and install a 3 way main switch (Mains/Off/MG) with a 32 amp RCD on the MG circuit in case of overload demand, to power everything in the house from the car in the event of a power cut. We have the same function at our SES shed where 3 petrol generators supply various requirements. There is one 3 way switch for each generator.

It is hardly worth it though for the benefit I'd get. If there is a power cut at night I'll just plug a 4 or 6 way power board in & run the fridge, freezer a few standard lamps, computers & TV, total less than 10 amps.

The MG cable is limited to 2.4kW output & costs about $270.00
 
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It is hardly worth it though for the benefit I'd get. If there is a power cut at night I'll just plug a 4 or 6 way power board in & run the fridge, freezer a few standard lamps, computers & TV, total less than 10 amps.
You do better than us. We average over a dozen longer power outages a year. Enough that I keep detailed stats on it and have a dedicated automated home backup power system.

Since I started recording them in November 2018, we've had 74 grid power outages of at least 5-minutes duration (usually hours) and countless very short duration outages.

We also had plenty of outages in the years before then as well but I didn't record them. We grew tired of the extension cord routine. The two day long outage right before Christmas with family staying and fridges full of our Christmas food and drinks was the last straw which saw my wife agreeing to let me "sort something out".

The solution evolved over time but I now have it set up such that I can plug the car into to the home's backup system to act as an extra reserve capacity if required. I already have reserve capacity and a backup inverter generator as redundancy.

But definitely the suggestion of installing a power inlet in the garage or near where the car is parked and having a 3-way "break before make" transfer switch to be able to power selected home circuits will I think be a good option for some people.
 
We have plenty of cuts here at Corindi Beach too but they are rarely very long. The network infrastructure reliability in Northern NSW is the worst I have encountered in my life.

I owned a small block in rural NZ with 3 phase supply for 25 years and had fewer power cuts in that time than in 1 year in Corindi Beach. Whether it is poor line/equipment maintenance & upkeep or failure to keep lines clear of trees and obstructions I don't know.

We had power out to the SES shed last Friday for about 4 hours & we had some storm damage jobs to deal with so the generators got a work out.

The extension leads to essential things from the car V2L will suit me OK I reckon.
 
Is there a reason for needing a long dedicated cable, instead of a shorter cable with a longer decent quality extension lead?

It is hardly worth it though for the benefit I'd get. If there is a power cut at night I'll just plug a 4 or 6 way power board in & run the fridge, freezer a few standard lamps, computers & TV, total less than 10 amps.

Well, since the outages are pretty rare ... maybe I am overthinking it and should just go for a short adaptor and then run extension lead(s).

So what do I need to consider in that case in regards to safety? If for example I did utilise almost 2kW (unlikely, but just as a worst-case-scenario) is there a maximum extension cable length etc I should try to stay below, or other considerations like how do I tell a good quality extension lead/powerboard from a poor quality one?

After having a 7kW charger installed, and getting quotes for solar I know the subject of "thicker is better" kept coming up for long runs of cables but is it also relevant for consumer extension leads?

Like I said, maybe I'm overthinking it but seems like there's a pretty good brains-trust here to ask :)
 
After having a 7kW charger installed, and getting quotes for solar I know the subject of "thicker is better" kept coming up for long runs of cables but is it also relevant for consumer extension leads?
In addition to conductor thickness (and material), every plug, socket and other connection type introduces loss into the system.
When you're running some lights and a computer it's probably not going to matter, however big inductive loads like motors (ie fridges) need to be planned for properly.
A long cable run + a couple of connection points is going to result in voltage drop. This creates risk for motors - as voltage drops they pull more current. More current means more risk of burning out the motor. This is precisely why most consumer air compressors have a warning not to use them with an extension cord.

Will it make a difference in your setup? Depends on the conditions. If the compressors in your fridge and freezer turn on at the same time and you're running a long, cheap, consumer extension lead there will be risk.
The MG4 already delivers a voltage at the low end (218v from reports in this forum).
Get a decent extension lead (eg something with 2.5 mm² conductors), keep the contacts clean, don't daisy chain leads, power boards, etc and you'll reduce your risk.
 
The MG4 already delivers a voltage at the low end (218v from reports in this forum).
Get a decent extension lead (eg something with 2.5 mm² conductors)
Ah, cool. Yep after that last post and looking at heavy duty extensions I noticed the different 1.0, 1.5, 2.5mm core sizes which until now hadn’t been on my radar. So thanks for that - sounds like I’m on the right track then to not skimp on the leads 👍
 
Ah, cool. Yep after that last post and looking at heavy duty extensions I noticed the different 1.0, 1.5, 2.5mm core sizes which until now hadn’t been on my radar. So thanks for that - sounds like I’m on the right track then to not skimp on the leads
Yes a decent quality extension cord with thicker conductors will help. The longer the cable, and the more power you expect to draw, the more it matters and because the voltage output from the MG4's V2L is already low, reducing any further voltage drop between the car and the loads matters more.

Just think about what exactly you want to run during a grid outage and how they are going to be connected. Can you access the plug for the fridge for instance?

You need to work within a power budget (and to an extent an energy budget).

Usually it's the fridge, some lamps, communications (internet router), chargers for phones/tablets/laptop, perhaps the TV if some important sporting event is on. A fan if it's a hot day.

Old fridges might be an issue to be careful of but modern units are usually pretty good and don't have quite the same surge power draw when their compressor kicks on.

All that can mean quite a few extension cords spread around depending on the home layout. So have a bit of a plan - one strategy is to consolidate activity into one area of the house. Minimise cable runs.

Plug in heaters generally are a no go as the power draw is too high, but a low power long-infrared heater can work. I have one with 300, 500 & 800 W settings and it works well as a personal heater.

Same restriction applies to washing machines, microwave ovens, electric kettles, and pretty much anything involved in generating heat (e.g. clothes or hair dryers). While you could boil a kettle using the V2L, you would not do that in a scenario where other appliances are being powered at the same time.

For a longer outage you may want to be able to cook something or at least boil some water. If the home does not use gas hobs, then I suggest a $25 portable butane camp stove from Bunnings or similar. They are actually pretty good and is exactly what we used in the early days of our backup set up so the wife could have her cup of tea. We have a 4-pack of spare butane canisters and they last for many years.

We also have a couple of battery camp lanterns and spare batteries as further backup, plus handy if you need to have light outside at night.

Other considerations:
  • if the car is exposed to the elements (outages often happen in inclement weather), how well is the V2L adapter shielded from water ingress?
  • trip hazard potential of the cable(s)
  • how the cable feeds into the house and if that causes any issues, e.g. leaving a window or door ajar to run the cable through. For us it would mostly be insects/mozzies we want to keep out but for others it might be keeping the warmth inside and not letting cold drafts through.
 
Yes a decent quality extension cord with thicker conductors will help. The longer the cable, and the more power you expect to draw, the more it matters and because the voltage output from the MG4's V2L is already low, reducing any further voltage drop between the car and the loads matters more.

Just think about what exactly you want to run during a grid outage and how they are going to be connected. Can you access the plug for the fridge for instance?

You need to work within a power budget (and to an extent an energy budget).

Usually it's the fridge, some lamps, communications (internet router), chargers for phones/tablets/laptop, perhaps the TV if some important sporting event is on. A fan if it's a hot day.

Old fridges might be an issue to be careful of but modern units are usually pretty good and don't have quite the same surge power draw when their compressor kicks on.

All that can mean quite a few extension cords spread around depending on the home layout. So have a bit of a plan - one strategy is to consolidate activity into one area of the house. Minimise cable runs.

Plug in heaters generally are a no go as the power draw is too high, but a low power long-infrared heater can work. I have one with 300, 500 & 800 W settings and it works well as a personal heater.

Same restriction applies to washing machines, microwave ovens, electric kettles, and pretty much anything involved in generating heat (e.g. clothes or hair dryers). While you could boil a kettle using the V2L, you would not do that in a scenario where other appliances are being powered at the same time.

For a longer outage you may want to be able to cook something or at least boil some water. If the home does not use gas hobs, then I suggest a $25 portable butane camp stove from Bunnings or similar. They are actually pretty good and is exactly what we used in the early days of our backup set up so the wife could have her cup of tea. We have a 4-pack of spare butane canisters and they last for many years.

We also have a couple of battery camp lanterns and spare batteries as further backup, plus handy if you need to have light outside at night.

Other considerations:
  • if the car is exposed to the elements (outages often happen in inclement weather), how well is the V2L adapter shielded from water ingress?
  • trip hazard potential of the cable(s)
  • how the cable feeds into the house and if that causes any issues, e.g. leaving a window or door ajar to run the cable through. For us it would mostly be insects/mozzies we want to keep out but for others it might be keeping the warmth inside and not letting cold drafts through.
Yes luckily I’d already been around the house a while back with an energy meter to see how much each appliance draws (from when I started looking into solar), and have a gas cooktop, and car garaged and not exposed. Thanks for all that info, I think I’m ready now take the plunge now on an adaptor and map out the most efficient cabling before I go shopping for leads 🙂
 
I originally had a Camden Grey ordered but when I saw them all together I ended up going with White, which was available quicker (and $700 cheaper).

The dealers offered a woeful trade in on my ZS EV (with only 21,300 km on the clock) so I ended up selling online through Dutton Group and got a $6,000 better offer. With the $3,000 EV rebate to come I'll have done pretty well to end up with a car more like I wanted when I first made the EV jump 2.5 years ago.
Chris,

Could you provide information on the Dutton Group. I am interested in the MG4 and my existing MGZSEV is about the same as yours was.

Cliff
 
Chris,

Could you provide information on the Dutton Group. I am interested in the MG4 and my existing MGZSEV is about the same as yours was.

Cliff
Hi Cliff, link here Australia’s Largest Online Car Sales Company - Sell Your Car Fast
They certainly are fast and efficient, and as I said they offered much better than the dealer but still quite a bit under what you see some of the ZS EVs advertised for. Unfortunately there's a lot of people like us trading up to MG4 so the ZS resale value is dropping.
 
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Got my essence 64 yesterday, super happy and got the last orange one available in the country
 

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I think it’s a software bug. The usb port doesn’t seem to be being re-initialised on power up. The port is still powered it’s just not allowing data flow ie the ‘handshake’ comms between the dongle and the head unit. Unless of course you pull the usb cable or hit the power switch on the usb cable both of which then re-initialises the usb port then magically everything is fine again.
I just saw a tip on another forum that by unpairing the bluetooth connection between phone and car but keeping the bluetooth between phone and wireless dongle it solves this problem.

Just tried it and Android Auto started instantly (and presumably Carplay would too). Not sure if this will affect making and taking calls.

EDIT: It worked that first time but hasn't been at all consistent so back to the old ways. :(
 
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I’ve got the V2L cable from EVchargers. It’s very well made with really good quality connectors.
Can I ask which one did you get and if it comes with the orange IP66 socket like in some of the photos? They do look pretty reasonable, but their website's a bit light on info (and heavy on Tesla mentions)
 

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