MG iSmart 2.0 [merged]

Lovemyev said:
It is worth noting that using the battery heater / cabin heater consumes a lot of energy already stored in the pack, unless you are hooked up to a A/C supply to help back fill the loss from the pack.
I always carry out charging on the cheap 5p off peak rate, to a SOC that suits the journey I am about to make.
If I then preheat the cabin & traction battery while still connected to the wall box, then I am consuming power at a much higher daily rate of 40p which defeats the object TBH.
If required, I will just preheat the cabin for 10 minutes using the cheap rate stored energy from the pack.
Some loss of range for sure, but I build this into the level of SOC that I require and it is way less expensive.
If it is extremely cold and you preheat the pack from home, then as you travel the pack temperature is going to drop quickly regardless.
Of course this will differ from person to person and their individual usage patterns / circumstances.
But purely on a personal basis, I don’t find any advantages of using the battery heater myself.
Preheating the pack in cold conditions just before carrying out a D/C rapid charge, should give you a faster charging rate, if time is really that important to you as a person who covers a lot of miles.
But if you are running low on range, this may not be a great idea as heating the pack from the traction pack will have a negative on your remaining range, just like using the cabin heater would.
Click to expand...
The drop in temperature is not so quick: I recently warmed up the pack, and then enabled intelligent battery heating and achieved 4mi/kwh without any special measures (nothing was on ECO) and the outside temp was hovering around 0. This was on a one hour journey back from work.
The battery heater and coolant is very Efficient once the pack is fully warmed up, which takes about an hour, of which 20/30 minutes is actively pumping the coolant through the heater and battery pack, and the next half hour is allowing the pack to be heated uniformly by the coolant.
In the future all batteries will be immersion cooled/heated so this will be even more efficient.
 
dhoogland said:
You sound quite sure of yourself but my experience is quite different. When the intelligent battery heater is turned on, my range is about 40% less! The battery heating draws so much power that it negates any benefit in "transferring power more efficiently" - and in my experience, by miles.

In colder weather I use the heater to warm the battery about 15 mins before I arrive at a fast charger or maybe to pre-heat the battery before a long journey, but only when connected to a charger. Otherwise, it's a waste of my SOC.

I also can't imagine the heater being drawn from the 12v battery, that little thing can't possibly deliver enough power to heat the battery and it should come from the HV battery.
Click to expand...
When stationary, check the AMP draw when the battery heater is on. If it draws 10A or more, turn it off (usualy after having had the schedule battery heating on, which at the moment is not an option). When you don't get a 10A draw when the car is stationary, leave the battery heater on.

If you don't check that bit then you will lose range, just as if the air con was on. And yes, I am quite sure of myself because I've been doing this for almost a year and writing it all down in a spreadsheet. The cost for me has gone from almost 9p a mile down to 5.5p a mile. Listen to the manual or to someone who has actually been doing this to get best results, your choice.
 
WonkoTheSaneUK said:
The new app has now not asked for a login for at least 18 hours! 😲
Click to expand...
My App stopped pecking my head for the password yesterday evening.
I am on version 2.1 2.0.1 using a IPhone 14.
We have a Trophy LR.
This morning all worked fine, just checked back in at lunch time and the service is not available.
I think this purely down to heavy traffic on the server myself.
I am not overly concerned at the moment 🤣.
 
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Bobbie Blaise said:
When stationary, check the AMP draw when the battery heater is on. If it draws 10A or more, turn it off (usualy after having had the schedule battery heating on, which at the moment is not an option). When you don't get a 10A draw when the car is stationary, leave the battery heater on.

If you don't check that bit then you will lose range, just as if the air con was on. And yes, I am quite sure of myself because I've been doing this for almost a year and writing it all down in a spreadsheet. The cost for me has gone from almost 9p a mile down to 5.5p a mile. Listen to the manual or to someone who has actually been doing this to get best results, your choice.
Click to expand...
Are you even driving an MG4? Your profile says it's a ZS.

I am willing to listen to experience when it would make sense to me on a technical level. For now, I have no idea why you'd want to me measure the current going out of my 12v battery. I'd like to understand the trick, not look at one.

I can see from my own experience what works for my car (keep in mind the 64kwh versions uses an NMC battery and not the LFP battery as in the 51kWh versions). I imagine LFP is, for example, more vulnerable to colder weather conditions. There might be other differences as I drive an EU version with heatpump. But in the end, you telling us that it's the 12v battery heating up the battery pack, makes me wonder what else you got wrong.
 
For all those who have now had their phone stayed logged in for hours- a day+ and things seem to be working, don't forget to update your reviews in the app store. We want to actually encourage fixing the issues rather than just us all leave them at 1* forever even when fixed.

Seem like most people are working again ok now, other than a few with issues with passwords or trying to resync because they logged in with phone/email rather than the one it is actually paired with.

Are there any other issues outstanding? Would be nice to add dark mode into the themes section etc but this are just added extras not problems as such.
 
fnegroni said:
The battery heater and coolant is very Efficient once the pack is fully warmed up, which takes about an hour, of which 20/30 minutes is actively pumping the coolant through the heater and battery pack, and the next half hour is allowing the pack to be heated uniformly by the
Click to expand...
Spending 30 minutes to 1 hour heating the pack on my high day rate tariff does not work out economically viable in my case, but everybody will be different.
One hour charge on my wall box returns about an extra 25 miles of range for a cost of about 5p on a cheap off peak rate.
Why am I going to then heat the battery in the morning, for 1 hour at cost of 40p ??.
No thanks.
 
Bobbie Blaise said:
When stationary, check the AMP draw when the battery heater is on. If it draws 10A or more, turn it off (usualy after having had the schedule battery heating on, which at the moment is not an option). When you don't get a 10A draw when the car is stationary, leave the battery heater on.

If you don't check that bit then you will lose range, just as if the air con was on. And yes, I am quite sure of myself because I've been doing this for almost a year and writing it all down in a spreadsheet. The cost for me has gone from almost 9p a mile down to 5.5p a mile. Listen to the manual or to someone who has actually been doing this to get best results, your choice.
Click to expand...
The battery heater draws power in the kW range, that isn't coming from your 12V battery. The coolant pump on the other hand is possibly (I haven't checked) run off the 12V and that is what you are seeing.
 
jasonh said:
Go to the 'battery'section, and look for the hexagon in the top right hand corner. Scheduled charging and scheduled battery heating is in here.

On a side note, ive not used scheduled battery heating ever before, is this something worth using on a very cold morning, before a commute of 20 miles ?
Click to expand...
no sign of battery heating maybe only on the 4?
 
App ok again on FL5 apart from.......
Remote features for rear screen & front screen not communicating. Lock/unlock feature working though.
Currently charging OK, just the remote access issue. Hopefully it'll resolve itself ???
 
Lovemyev said:
DON’T PANIC - DON’T PANIC 😱 !.
Click to expand...
Lance-Corporal-Jones.jpg
 
V2.0.1
Maybe a bit of helpful info for the 'expired login token' thingy....
Logged in with phone number...after an hour or so = expired login
Logged in with email address... no expiration 🤷‍♂️ (it didn't mention email previously)

The app is still a bit :poop: though.
 
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